After 50 years of life in Mexico City and 17 since the first glowing praise (of the many that came later) from Ferran and Albert Adrià, the most famous brothers in world cuisine,

El Bajío

decided last year to open its first branch outside the American continent in Madrid - it already had two others in New York, in addition to 18 throughout Mexico. There can be little more impressive presentation in the gastronomic world than that first one by Ferran Adriá in 2007: "With its simplicity and authenticity, it is one of the best places where I have eaten in the world."

The brothers of the legendary

Bulli

have been to Mexico many more times, and have repeated their praise, which could not be a better presentation outside of their land of a restaurant where, by the way, neither deconstruction nor spherifications play any role. Traditional Mexican cuisine without an excess of "street" dishes, careful preparation, prudent use of spicy foods - perhaps more so in Madrid, as many Spaniards are known to have difficulties with very sharp chili peppers -, that is the offer from El Bajío that we have tried in our city.

Two Spaniards, Yolanda Iglesias in the dining room and Josep Rivera in the kitchen - the latter with 18 years of experience in Mexico - run the Madrid restaurant, a

large two-story establishment

decorated with a multitude of round and golden mirrors. The founder of the first establishment half a century ago, Titita Rodríguez from Veracruz, continues from Mexico in charge of the culinary offering of all the other restaurants, helped by her son Raúl Ramírez, also a partner in the Madrid establishment.

It is clear that Titita is from Veracruzana in the presence on the menu of several dishes from her land, from anise gorditas to

Veracruzana-style fish

, including Papanteco tamales, but the rest of the country is well represented in a menu that is not very extensive but with dishes from all over Mexico, from Yucatán to the north.

After an almost unavoidable margarita - delicious but a bit too sweet for Spanish tastes, as usually happens in Madrid with the great Mexican cocktail and also with the Peruvian one, the pisco sour - we tried four dishes and a dessert, all very varied, to form this first opinion of El Bajío.

The two starters are the most attractive and successful: Yucatecan panuchos, excellent homemade corn tortillas covered with cooked pork - you know, cochinita pibil - with achiote, orange juice and refried beans, and the so-called prawn tacos (it seems like a concession to the Spanish culinary vocabulary, because they are not our brindle prawns but are more similar to Pacific shrimp), which arrive very originally breaded, with chipotle chili sauce, purple cabbage and pico de gallo. Both dishes were delicious.

Interesting, but a little short on seasoning for what we expect from Mexican cuisine, the two resistance dishes: a monkfish in yellow mole with guajillo chili, green and red tomato, vegetables and spices, with the fish slightly overdone, and a A great classic is the huarache with sirloin, with a base of dough, refried beans, green and red sauce on which slices of very good rare sirloin arrive. The cajeta (dulce de leche) flan for dessert was great in consistency and flavor.

It is evident that this first emergency contact gives a partial impression of a much more varied offer, but without a doubt the path taken is interesting and promising. Of course, we would encourage them not to be excessively cautious in the use of well-spiced chiles and moles, as often happens to exotic chefs who face a Spanish clientele not very accustomed to them.

The wine list is correct, without great originalities, and for fans the extensive offer of tequilas and mezcals is undoubtedly more interesting.

More information about El Bajío

  • Españoleto, 10

    • 659 05 15 92

  • Opening hours: Closed on Sunday evenings, Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

    • Official Website: https://restauranteelbajio.es

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