Marta Fernández Guadaño Madrid

Madrid

Updated Thursday, February 8, 2024-14:52

Between the banks of the

Manzanares River

, Matadero and the 'barrio de los metals', these ten addresses serve different styles of cuisine, in establishments that range from the most 'casual' to contemporary concepts led by young chefs in

Legazpi

, the administrative neighborhood of the district. from Arganzuela, in Madrid.

Ether

The conversion of the family bistro

La Touche France

, located in the Legazpi neighborhood, gave rise to one of the openings of the year in Madrid in 2020. In fact, it started in February of that year, a few days before the pandemic. It is the project of the brothers

Mario and Sergio Tofé

, thus becoming entrepreneurs at the forefront of a contemporary kitchen concept, whose tables tend to always be in real demand. Both share, respectively, the roles of living room and kitchen in their space of only 5 tables, where they defend "taking care of the small producer and taking advantage of the techniques of yesteryear to be even more responsible with the environment." The offer is based on the tasting menu format, with two options: 'Etéreo', 12 courses, for 75 euros; and 'Corpóreo', with 15 dishes for 100 euros. The liquid side is completed with biodynamic and natural wines. They usually announce via Instagram the date on which they open reservations - right now, February and March are available. It opens from Monday to Friday and closes on the weekend.

Granito, 20. Madrid. Menus: €75 and €100

Lur

In line with Èter, it is another young project in Legazpi, in the strip that makes up what is known as the 'metal neighborhood'. Even younger than its neighbor both due to the opening date and the age of its owners.

Kándida was a neighborhood eatery that served good home cooking and daily menus

. The closure of the family business, where Lucía Gutiérrez helped her father, gave rise to opening Lur, where the chef who is barely over 22 years old has Sergio Vera as an ally. Both passed through spaces such as Zuberoa, the house of Hilario Arbelaitz and his brothers, which closed at the end of 2022. Gutiérrez and Vera started their restaurant in the fall of 2023, where they serve seasonal cuisine with contemporary touches, 'quite Zuberoa', such as Try the wild boar ravioli, marrow, wild mushroom and melanosporum truffle or the pinto caper bean, stewed cabbage, piparra and suckling pig's ear, among other à la carte dishes, with an average ticket between 40 and 60 euros.

Bolívar, 11. Madrid. Tel. 620 30 50 91. €40-60

In-Pulse

Just a stone's throw from the

Enrique Tierno Galván Park

, in that strip of the Legazpi neighborhood close to the Méndez Álvaro bus, metro and suburban stations, it is once again a young project launched by young people. After working for 15 years alongside great chefs such as F

ernando Perez Arellano, Santi Santamaría, Ricardo Sanz, Roberto Ruiz and Ramón Freixa, chef Álex García de la Fuente

opened his own restaurant in June 2022, together with his brother Adrián, at front of the room. "In-pulso, cuisine with heart", they define their project, raised with the intention of "as Madrid residents, to recover, make known and praise traditional cuisine, nowadays somewhat dispersed or mistreated from our point of view, with our personal vision". You can eat à la carte - average ticket 35 to 40 euros - recipes such as 'our tortilla pincho', grilled ear tacos with brava sauce, 'squid sandwich and citrus aioli or Madrid alboronía - shank recipe White beef stewed with pine nut mayonnaise, mint, boletus sauce and mushrooms. From time to time, they host "gastronomic experiences", with a tasting menu for 55 euros - the next one is on February 20 at night. In-Pulso was 'Premio Metrópoli' 2023 for the best restaurant with a ticket for less than 40 euros.

Ariel, 15. Madrid. Tel. 911 62 03 20. €35-40 and menu for €55

Nantes

A stone's throw from the Legazpi Metro, it presents itself like this: "Traditional and seasonal cuisine, very attached to the classic gastronomic values ​​of humility, affection and work." Behind this definition, there is

Álex Atienza

, a chef with studies in Architecture who opened Nantes about five years ago together with

Javier Bardera

, in front of the room. T

he name of the restaurant corresponds to the variety of carrots that Atienza's grandfather grew in the garden around Madrid

. His seasonal cuisine proposal translates into what they define as "neighborhood haute cuisine." In a place with an open kitchen, this gives rise to a menu with dishes such as sweet potato bravas with spicy snail sauce, open garlic shrimp omelet with Iberian jowl, stewed green beans with rabbit thigh and shoulder or Iberian pork fan in grilled marinade, to eat for an average ticket of 35 to 50 euros. In addition, it has a menu of the day for 15 euros, one of the cheapest among the establishments recommended by the Michelin Guide.

Maestro Arbós, 15. Madrid. Tel. 910 743 052. €35-50. Menu: €15

Piantao

Javier Brichetto

arrived in Spain in 2000, where he did internships in several restaurants until returning to Argentina. In 2007, he returned and after being part of several hospitality projects or consulting for groups such as

La Musa

, he decided to undertake a format that exalts part of the 'national' gastronomy of his country. In September 2019, he opened Piantao in a location in Legazpi, right across from Matadero.

The Argentine griller handles different cuts of meat

—mostly from Argentina—on a grill that he designed himself, where he combines firewood and charcoal. You can choose from criolla empanada or smoked roast croquettes to 'steak tartare' with beef eye and grilled vegetable chapter, before selecting one of the cuts of meat, with garnishes such as 'frita de la casa' - confit potato in 'wagyu' fat—to eat for an average ticket of 55-80 euros. A couple of years ago, it grew with the opening of a second headquarters on Sagasta Street—Piantao Chamberí—.

Paseo de la Chopera, 69. Madrid. Tel. 659 91 10 58. . 55-80€

DOT Cafe Bar

Shortly before the pandemic, the young couple formed by

María Formoso and Ros Cifuentes

started this modern 'everyday bar' very close to Matadero. Conceptualized as a café-bar with continuous hours, you can start with breakfast, or eat or snack, apart to have a good coffee at any time. "Coffee + beers + delicious food," DOT presents itself, with a menu designed to "support small projects and people in the neighborhood." Their 'bikini' is well-deservedly famous, on which they make a variety of recipes; In addition, single plate style 'bento bowl' for 9 euros, special dishes on certain days and menu of the day for 12 euros during the week and 15 on weekends.

The careful interior design is complemented by Super by DOT

, a store owned by the same owners in the neighboring store where it is possible to buy anything from a ceramic object to something to eat because at the same time it is a grocery store with bread, jams, kombuchas or wines. natural. It also has an online store.

Eugenio Sellés, 6. Madrid. Tel. 912 12 15 13. From €3-4

Matadero Canteen

It is a production of

Olivida Te Cuida

, a brand that has been operating in Madrid for years linked to simple, vegetable-heavy and 'healthy' cuisine - it has had various locations in the city and its takeaway dishes can be bought in Petra Mora. . Thus, he is in charge of the

Cineteca Cantina in Matadero

, which includes a dining room with different areas with tables and a terrace.

Menu of "simple things"

- they define -, such as pizzas, 'mezzes', baked sweet potato and many vegetable dishes. It operates with continuous hours from 10 in the morning until midnight, which allows you to have breakfast, lunch, snacks between meals, snack or dinner as a complement to any cultural event in Matadero.

Paseo de la Chopera, 14. Madrid. Tel. 625 90 81 88. €10-25

O'Portino

Classic neighborhood seafood restaurant located in front of Matadero, with a terrace, which is the family business of

Ángel Bayón and his wife, Fina

. Octopus is one of the specialties on the menu at O'Portiño, which specializes largely in Galician cuisine, with recipes such as broth, squid in Albariño sauce or grilled crayfish, in addition to recipes such as rice with lobster or octopus, fried cod and stone-grilled meats.

Send menu of the day for 15 euros

. By the way, it opens every day at 8:30 in the morning, except on Wednesdays, which is the day of rest. It also has another location under a brewery concept.

Plaza General Maroto, 1. Madrid. Tel. 914 73 58 40. €20-35. Menu: €15

Costello Rio

It opened in 2012 as the bar-restaurant in front of Matadero, 'brother' of the iconic club and concert hall on Caballero de Gracia Street.

Its continuous schedule allows it to offer breakfast, snacks, meals, snacks between meals, snacks, dinners and drinks.

Within its offer, there is a menu of the day at a price of 14 euros, with dishes such as tempura zucchini, grilled secret with green peppers or broken eggs with Creole chorizo. Its glass-enclosed dining room has as an ally the musical selection, "inherited from its older brother, the legendary Costello Club," they point out in the establishment.

Plaza General Maroto, 4. Madrid. €5-25. Menu: €14

The Madreña

Asturian cuisine

address

to take into account in the 'metal neighborhood', which corresponds to a business with more locations in Madrid - such as the one located on Paseo de la Castellana -, under the project of

José Luis Rodríguez

and his wife,

Margarita Rodríguez

. The specialties on La Madreña's menu range from its famous cachopos, with almost a dozen recipes, including one with Cecina de León and another with 'Joselito' Iberian pork jowl; the Asturian fabada with its compango, which has versions such as boletus and prawns; fish such as fried 'pixin', seafood soup or a more exotic dish such as beef meatballs with curry sauce. Average price for lunch or dinner from 49 to 55 euros.

Bronze, 4. Madrid. Tel. 916 49 54 68. €49-55