Morning afternoon and evening. For almost a consecutive month, the traditional raffle and enchiqueramiento of the bulls of the celebration of each day marks, about 12 hours, the beginning of a gastronomic and leisure route around the bullring of Las Ventas thanks to the varied offer proposed by each and every one of the premises near the Chair and that wear their best clothes with the arrival of a San Isidro Fair that saves your financial year. In addition, for the second time in a row, they will enjoy the oxygen balloon that the green light supposes to a regulation that allows, from two hours before the run and up to two hours after, the consumption of food and drink outside their facades.

THE APPERITIF

Wellington Hotel. There are several bullfighting hotels in Madrid but none with the taste of Wellington liturgy and tradition. They are seven decades hosting matadors in the hours before the most important commitment of the season: the paseíllo in the bullring of Las Ventas. During the San Isidro Fair the lobby is a constant coming and going of gang members and supporters, handshakes and few words. The bar of the English Bar of Wellington is the perfect place to, with a cold beer or a cocktail, start a day of bullfighting. Velazquez, 8

Joselito's. After freshening up for the first time, it's time to snack. Just a few meters from the Wellington, going up Velázquez Street, we find the perfect establishment to open your mouth. Known throughout the world, Joselito is synonymous with maximum quality and distinction, and its establishment in the Barrio de Salamanca is an ideal place to taste some of its star products. Ordering a plate of ham, obviously, is mandatory, but the loin or the coppa are not far away. Velazquez, 30

Vareo. Already lining the square, and after several years closed, one of the references of Pedro Heredia Street, next to Puerta Grande and Donde Leo, has just reopened its doors under the name of Vareo. With the same philosophy of the well-known Rincón de Jaén, but with its own personality, the place bets above all on the aperitif. "We follow that Andalusian tradition of serving the traditional tapa with every drink." Among the most requested, fried fish, Iberian ham and torreznos. Pedro Heredia, 22.

One of the many bars next to the Las Ventas bullring.

Proud tavern. Just in front of the bullring, being able to enjoy the views of the square from the inside and its terrace, the place took the witness of Al Natural in 2021 creating a space "with gastronomic proposals linked to the market cuisine and beauty of the Madrid capital". Among its specialties for the aperitif, croquettes, salad with pickled mussels, braised octopus and zamburiñas, within its menu where typical dishes of Spanish cuisine prevail. Julio Camba, 7.

Braulio House. This tavern is one of the few in the area that maintains the traditional aroma with an aftertaste of past times that characterized many of the bars near Las Ventas decades ago. It is obligatory in this corner to enjoy a well-pulled cane and some of its specialties such as anchovies in vinegar, gilda and marriage or potato omelette, one of the best in the capital. Avenida de los Toreros, 43.

FOOD

The Rooftop of Brindis. Between the Corte Inglés of Goya and the WiZink Center is this new bet of the Brindis Group that mixes the gastro-cultural tradition together with a fresh and current touch from the hand of a luxury advisor, Florencio Sanchidrián, World Ambassador of Ham. With meat products from Guijuelo, the place is divided into three areas: the bar and the main room, the terrace of 200 meters at street level and the exclusive roof terrace at the top if what you want is a very intimate atmosphere (only one reservation is accepted daily). Goya, 82.

The rooftop.

Abanto. The essence of Casa Leandro remains intact thanks to the children of the owner, Roberto and Paloma Gil, who have consolidated the place by providing renewed touches of high quality in their menu. Always indispensable the oxtail cooked by Telly, do not miss trying one of the star dishes of this year: the fried pig's ear with truffled mashed potatoes and brava sauce. To highlight its winery, one of the best of the Fair, and that brings this year a touch of solidarity: to the references of the house Muga, Alcorta, Tarsus and Azpilicueta, among others, the collaboration with the Maktub wine is added, whose full benefits are destined to the Aladina Foundation against childhood cancer. London, 39.

Leandro Gil and his children Roberto and Paloma, from Abanto, with a plate of oxtail.

Oblivion House. Those nostalgic for Casa Toribio do not have to worry: the new owner, Rafael, a close friend of the former owner, wanted to maintain the philosophy of the place so that the regular customer feels at home: "I was clear, I have not touched anything. This place was created by Toribio in his image and likeness and I wanted it to continue like this in his honor. Even the oxtail recipe [they still maintain the exclusivity of Las Ventas tails], has been left to us by Mari Carmen Rodríguez" (Toribio's wife). It only remains to be discovered, in this fair, if in this emblematic corner "the best gin and tonic in Madrid" is still served. Cardinal Belluga 14. .

Oblivion House.

Órdago. Two steps from the square but outside the traditional circuit of bars and restaurants, is this classic of Basque cuisine in the capital. Its dining room takes us to the traditional Gipuzkoan txokos, so sober, with their checkered tablecloths and solid wood chairs and tables. Its menu is a treatise on traditional Basque cuisine, with several essentials, such as Tolosa beans, kokotxas al pil pil, baked anchovies and txuleta, prior to a fantastic rice pudding and a few pieces of Idiazabal cheese. Sancho Dávila, 15.

The Brotherhood. On the other side of the M-30, in the Barrio de la Concepción, rice lovers have their space in La Cofradía, which has managed in a short time to make a name for itself in the area winning the prize for the best tapa in the neighborhood with its proposal of black rice. With a rice chef from Benicasim, this bullfighting-sports tavern prepares a special dish for the fair: rice with oxtail. Virgen de la Fuencisla, 2.

THE PREVIOUS

It tempts her. It is the local reference of hundreds of fans and for its characteristics could occupy space in each section of this route: for the variety of its appetizers, for the quality of its extensive menu and for the good atmosphere that is lived in this fashionable place from the opening to the closing. This year presents a novelty: the new extension of the premises in 150 square meters with a private room for 20 people. Alejandro Gonzalez, 7.

The Arena. If you want a well-served glass with all kinds of details, pass by. But if you want to enjoy a peculiar place, from the owner himself to the decoration, through the diversity of his clientele and the improvised gatherings of the same, this is his bar, where nothing goes unnoticed, where everything is so authentic that it is worth a drink before the celebration. Almeria, 6.

The Timpani.. Although it enjoys an attractive menu of traditional products where there is no lack of oxtail, its location, down Calle de Alcalá to a corner of the bullring, makes us include it in this section to fully live the previous atmosphere of the coming and going of fans before arriving at Las Ventas. Alcalá 227.

César Las Ventas. If we talk about location, the Caesar takes the palm of all the shops in the area, since only a pedestrian crossing separates his terrace from the bullfighting temple. Headquarters of the José Tomás bullfighting club, the place doubles its attractiveness thanks to its decoration, with a large number of bullfighting photos and several stuffed heads of historical bulls hanging on its walls. ALCALÁ, 204.

DINNER AND MORE

Fourth third. The most immediate happens in the square itself. As soon as the sixth bull is doubled, the live music of nine groups that rotate during the fair sounds in the corridors of Las Ventas, at the height of laying 9. Thus begins a show that, added to the bars on the upper terraces, make the arena the ideal meeting point for a young audience that increasingly goes to the bulls. You can also enjoy a varied menu of portions. Alcalá, 237.

Falling Leaves. The gastronomy and its care with the product, by the hand of chef José Luis Dastis, make the experience of the game of the Sala Roma go further adding to the well-known bingo a differential place to go to eat or enjoy dinners with show within a space with more than 900 m2 and capacity for 350 people. The shows range from flamenco (Thursdays), jazz (Fridays) or versions (Saturdays), apart from special performances such as the announced Marilia (Ella baila sola) for the 19th of this month. Plaza Manuel Becerra, 12.

The Marchioness. Those nostalgic for bullfighting literature will be amazed to learn that the historic Librería Rodríguez (now in Las Ventas), has become an elegant cocktail bar where, after the bullfight, you can enjoy its music at the bar and on the lower court. Marquis of Zafra, 31.

The Marchioness.

Rowland. The City Council unveiled a plaque on its façade in February as a tribute to "one of the landmarks for music lovers" since Nano and Chafly opened it in 1978. Converted into a place of worship thanks to the group Hombres G, its facilities have shot music videos and films and has been a place of inspiration for screenwriters and writers. Bavaria, 9.

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