Thursday, June 2, is Italy's Republic Day
, and what better way to join the festivities than to enjoy its gastronomy, one of the most popular in the world and which in Madrid has a good number of representatives of the vast and versatile kitchen of
nonna
and
mamma
.
There are true embassies
-and with character-
in the capital, such as Da Giuseppina by Ignazio Deias;
Andrea Tumbarello's Don Giovanni;
The Piperna of Nello de Biase;
Premiata Forneria Ballarò by Angelo Marino...
And contemporary batches, whether traditional, newly minted or
signature, already consolidated: Noi, Fratelli Figurato, Bel Mondo, Il Colombo, SottoSopra, El Bacaro by Fabio Gasparini or Fokacha, the
trattoria
where César Martín (Lakasa) reinterprets popular Italian recipes.
The list does not end, if not, take a look at these
ristoranti,
some new and others already with weight and settled in capital lands, and delve into the cuisine of the transalpine country.
Spaghetti carbonara, at Casa Isabella.
ISABELLA HOUSE
We start with one of the last dining rooms to join the payroll.
The Barcelona group Isabella's -specializing in Italian gastronomy- lands in Madrid
, in the Salamanca district, with a proposal that revolves around market cuisine, with raw materials brought largely from the transalpine country, and with hints of the Mediterranean.
And how is this concept, located in a beautiful three-storey building, with five spaces dedicated (from the kitchen to the terrace passing through the room) to the diner's enjoyment?
Take note:
penne all'arrabbiata or alla vodka;
paccheri with tomato, basil and mozzarella;
spaghetti with spider crab;
eggplant
parmigiana
, Sicilian caponata...
Address:
Puigcerdà, 4. Tel.: 91 954 69 54.
Pasta dish, at Pante.
pante
We continue in the Salamanca district, very close to the Retiro, in this beautiful dining room that
for three years has been bringing to your tables a unique proposal based on the recipe book of Pantelleria
(Pantelleria, in Italian), that small Sicilian island.
With top quality goods, in many cases imported directly from the so-called
black pearl of the Mediterranean
,
chef Manfredi Bosco remains faithful to tradition, to which he gives a contemporary touch
.
Here it is almost obligatory to try the cavatelli
alla norma
(fresh pasta with homemade Sicilian pachino cherry tomato sauce, fried aubergine and salty ricotta), carbonara al tartufo nero (with rigatoni, guanciale di Norcia and black truffle), cotoletta pantesca (a kind of veal milanese) or the island's traditional dessert, bacio pantesco (puff pastry with lemon ricotta and chocolate drops).
Another strong point of the concept is the
Carpaccio Bar
:
eight "fresh, light dishes, with the least possible elaboration so that the product stands out even more", explains
Alessandro Luchetti, who together with Daniel Cabezas and Antonio Facco are the ideologues of the project
.
It is divided into three sections: vegetables (for example, portobello mushrooms with toasted almonds, Parmesan flakes and arugula sauce), meat (rib-eye roast beef with tonnata sauce and granulated capers from Pantelleria, among others) and fish (wild sea bass with basil, lemon and pistachio sauce...).
In the cellar, a wide range of Italian wines, as well as Spanish and French, and
high-end cocktails.
And if your thing is the aperitif or the afternoon, its terrace is a good destination.
Address:
Villanueva, 21. Tel.: 91 827 52 49. Average price: 40 euros.
Aubergine Parmigiana, at Peppe Fusco.
PEPPE FUSCO
Behind this new space, where vegetation, wood and an industrial style go hand in hand, is a well-known Madrid restaurant company,
Grupo Pulcinella (Ornella, Maruzzella, Pulcinella, among others).
In this restaurant -next to the roundabout of Quevedo- coexist, in a short menu, super popular
dishes of Italian cuisine
(eggplant parmigiana; a creamy burrata; baked provola with San Marzano tomato; homemade pasta such as spaghetti carbonara; light pizzas with Roman style made with sourdough (don't miss the truffle one!)
with others not so well known
, such as the risotto allo zafferano e guanciotto or the spaghetti alla Nerano.
On the wine list, only references to the transalpine country and some champagne.
Address
Address: Fuencarral, 139. Average price: 35 euros.
Mezzemaniche 'alla carbonara', in Totó Madrid.
TOTO MADRID
It has only been open for two months and it is already
one of the most desired dining rooms in the capital, thanks to the work and grace of Mabel Hospitality
, a group that counts Rafael Nadal among its partners.
Located very close to his older brother (Tatel), decoratively it is inspired by the golden age of
Italian cinema of the 50s and 60s
and is a tribute to the protagonist of the mythical film
Cinema Paradiso
.
In terms of gastronomy,
traditional Italian cuisine with first class products
(also organic and local): classic pasta, fresh vegetables, traditional
stews made in clay pots
, meat and fish and wines (national and international, especially from the transalpine country).
Essential parmigiana di melanzane, from the heart of Sicily;
the vitello tonnato;
the
aged veal ravioli with toasted butter and sage
, the arugula and red mullet pizza or their interpretation of the classic tiramisu.
They also have a wide range of wines and cocktails.
Address:
Paseo de la Castellana, 38. Average price: 45-55 euros.
Cappelletti stuffed with Iberian and with forest mushroom cream, in Gioia.
GIOIA
Davide Bonato happily officiates
(
gioia
in Italian) in this Chueca dining room, which
starts this June with new features:
on the one hand, the space has been renovated;
on the other hand, the gastronomic proposal brings some hand changes from the
Otsukaresama
tasting menu (updated Piedmontese dishes with nods to the East. Price: 65 euros).
Although Bonato remains faithful to the spirit that has made him famous:
classic, updated and also signature recipes.
The stars of his menu are the
uovo morbido
(egg poached in brown rice flour, cream of potatoes, truffle, boletus and crispy Iberian ham), the
vitel toné
(wagyu cubes from Santa Rosalía at low temperature, tuna, capers, anchovies) and artisan pasta.
Among these, do not miss the ravioli stuffed with red and white meats;
spaghetti
alla chitarra
(with guanciale, air of pecorino cheese, egg cooked at low temperature and charcoal and pepper crumble) and also
alla carbonara
and cappelletti, dumpling style, stuffed with Iberian, forest mushroom cream, shimeji, pak- choi and air of parmigiano
.
For truffle fans, the
Ruber
menu (85 euros).
Address:
San Bartolomé, 23. Tel.: 91 521 55 47. Average price: 45 euros.
Fresh pasta, in Davvero.
DAVVERO
Located in
the Food Hall of the exclusive Canalejas Gallery
, a few steps from Puerta del Sol, the new concept
of the Davanti Group is committed to traditional Italian cuisine
, homemade, but with a touch of elegance and brought to the 21st century.
The other pillar of the proposal is that of first class raw material, with products from the transalpine country.
Its varied menu starts with an
extensive chapter of starters,
from the mortadella di Bologna tartufata to the fried courgette flowers, stuffed with asiago, a typical cheese from northern Italy, passing through the vitello tonnato and
the culatello, a unique pork sausage, accompanied with freshly baked focaccia.
Pastas and rice dishes, among the first, and its varied offer of pizzas is essential.
Among the main courses, the beef tenderloin in red wine sauce with glazed shallots and herb-flavoured potatoes and the cod fillet cooked at low temperature and buttered with milk cream and anchovies are two good options.
Address
: Canalejas Gallery Food Hall, Alcalá 12. Tel.: 91 7 65 99 51.
Selection of pizzas, in Napoli Gang.
NAPOLI GANG
We close with this
brand new pizzeria inaugurated very close to the Royal Theater,
which, after being born as the
delivery brand of the Big Mamma Group
-theirs are the successful Bel Mondo and Villa Capri restaurants-, has just opened in restaurant mode.
With a
fun, youthful and somewhat
rogue
decoration ,
it is a pizzeria in the purest neighborhood style, whose menu has been
designed by chef Emanuele Tripodi with Italian and local products
.
There is no shortage of
antipasti
, burrata from Puglia, homemade sweets and
pizzas, many pizzas: from the classic margherita and marinara to You Turn Me On
(with
salami
and spicy sauce of
n'duja
), the calzone pugliese (fried with San Marzano tomato sauce) and other limited editions, for example, one in a traditional style, with potato, brava sauce, chistorra sausage and aioli.
Price: from 8 euros.
Address:
Santa Clara, 10.
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