Ferrán Adrià: "Soon a waiter will earn more in Spain than a lawyer. In Paris they already charge 6,000 euros a month"

Those who have been to

tirelessly repeat that the experience of dining there will be with them for the rest of their lives.

That those four hours of happiness in Rosas (Gerona) and 52 dishes are nailed to the first pages of your best memories, glued to deliveries on the run, to the Champions League finals, to unforgettable sanfermines or nights with friends at Toni 2 , in Ibiza or Copacabana.

The author of the music in Cala Montjoi, who sat around the table not answering questions from customers, but asking them, while serving some magical gin and tonics, was

, here today before

and

dressed in black on the edge of Plaza de Colón.

In the spectacular

An intense agenda awaits him from

, including talks and the presentation of the latest book in which he has participated, hand in hand with the bank:

, a manual that compiles ideas and reflections of the genius of the kitchen on what innovation is and what is their role in companies.

, head of banquets in the kitchen of the

Hotel , lowers the Castellana to honor the guru.

He tells her that on Sunday he fed his Barça team before playing at the Bernabéu.

“What did you put on them, because they came out like motorcycles?” asks the curious soccer fan Adrià.

Do you remember where you ate on your first visit to Madrid? I don't remember the date, but I think I came when I was head chef.

And I ate at Currito [historic Casa de Campo restaurant, closed in 2014].

We made a pickled pigeon from one that Currito made.

It was an iconic dish at El Bulli in 1985. What would you take on the Ave from Madrid to Barcelona and vice versa?

From here to there I have it clear: more clients.

There are a lot more people here and tourism used to make up for this difference in Barcelona, ​​but now we are lacking there.

They are two complementary cities, where people live very well and there is a good atmosphere, despite the two tremendous crises that we are experiencing. Why have you never opened a restaurant in Madrid? I did things here.

I helped start Fast Good, which was the first quality burger place to be made in nearly the entire world.

It was part of a collaboration with NH hotels. Hospitality in a pandemic became a political flag in Madrid, with Ayuso's triumph as a great consequence.

How did you see this phenomenon from the outside?

It is normal to jump into politics.

Because it is not only about the impact on GDP that it has, but everything that it drags.

In addition, it was shown that it is one of the most important social acts.

Open bars mean finding yourself, going out, seeing people... The covid served to value what hospitality is at a social and economic level.

Restaurateurs have never talked about the economy, but now it's time for us to do so so that they pay attention to us. In a pandemic, the Madrid and Barcelona models were opposite.

Here there was much more flexibility.

What did you think?

Well, but not only was Madrid different from Barcelona,

it was with the rest of Spain.

In places that had the same figures as here, they imposed another regulation.

It escapes me.

Here it was decided to leave it open and it was not bad at all. Have you noticed a gastronomic evolution in Madrid? The city has an incredible level, you just have to look at the latest hotel openings.

Zuma is here, Nobu is coming too... Things previously unthinkable in Madrid.

With the good that was already there and everything new that has arrived, Madrid has become a European gastronomic capital, with a very high level.

Nobu will also come... Things previously unthinkable in Madrid.

With the good that was already there and everything new that has arrived, Madrid has become a European gastronomic capital, with a very high level.

Nobu will also come... Things previously unthinkable in Madrid.

With the good that was already there and everything new that has arrived, Madrid has become a European gastronomic capital, with a very high level.

Ferrán Adrià, in the All in One branch of Caixabank.A.NAVARRETE

And without a kitchen of its own.

But like everywhere As a great city, it has a very good cosmopolitan cuisine: Italian, Asian, Mediterranean, Mexican, Peruvian... What is your route in Madrid?

I go where they take me.

Today I had a catering lunch, with the [Caixabank] team.

And the last time I went to La Tasquita de Enfrente and the Ritz, by Quique Dacosta, but with the covid in three years I have hardly come and when I do come, I do not stop.

Which one would you recommend, which one do you like?

[Cold sweats at the question.

Where to send Ferrán Adriá to eat?

As if Michael Jordan asks for advice on shooting mechanics]... I don't know, Ferrán... Estimating is amazing, of course.

And Bacira, at much more affordable prices, is worth it. Bacira?

Roger that.

What gives him a bad conscience when he eats it?

When there are small mullet or so,

that are delicious but do not go well for sustainability.

And that is important, because if not, they will end.

You have to maintain a certain balance between pleasure and duty. And do you take care of yourself or treat yourself from time to time?

I take care of myself more and more.

Controlled alcohol, controlled bread, a lot of vegetables, grilled products, etc... Is this at home. Is it on the terrace or inside? I'm more of a lounge in restaurants, because it's calmer and I prefer it to be indoors with a certain atmosphere.

In a beach bar, no, obviously.

In a beach bar I like the terrace.

At el Bulli we had.

Is it on the terrace or inside? I'm more of a lounge in a restaurant, because it's quieter and I prefer it to be indoors with a certain atmosphere.

In a beach bar, no, obviously.

In a beach bar I like the terrace.

At el Bulli we had.

Is it on the terrace or inside? I'm more of a lounge in a restaurant, because it's quieter and I prefer it to be indoors with a certain atmosphere.

In a beach bar, no, obviously.

In a beach bar I like the terrace.

At el Bulli we had.

Ferrán Adrià, during the interview at Caixabank's 'All in one' office, in Colón.ÁNGEL NAVARRETE

Do you cook daily?

At home my wife, who cooks much better than me. Mine likes broccoli.

And our daughter too.

Well, congratulate them both.

For children, the good thing is that they eat one thing every day.

But fruits, for example, we only eat five varieties but there are 60 or 70. I would make him eat the fruit he touched each month and the maximum number of vegetables.

The best diet was told to me

[renowned cardiologist] is little and everything. Your international gastronomic destination.

Always Japan, which is full stop in everything, and also in gastronomy.

But China as soon as they open up a little more, it's going to be the revolution.

There are many and there are Chinese chefs doing incredible things.

His friends say that he loves Etxebarri, in the Basque Country.

He has created new things.

All the current use of the grill throughout the world is thanks to Etxebarri, where it uses unusual products.

And it has given it a brutal competitive advantage.

The book that he is now presenting is the result of a 77-day confinement at elBulli1846 [the reformulated space that previously housed the most famous restaurant in the world] with experts in architecture, philosophy, museography, design, geopolitics, business administration and psychology.

Did you imagine in the 80s when you started in the kitchen that the kitchen would end up interacting with such diverse specialties? It was unthinkable then, but from 96-97 it was, because we began to theorize about innovation, something essential for our trajectory.

It was very good because they were different prisms to confront. They call you a teacher, but you say that you like being a studentI am going to learn from this interview, it will make me reflect.

I always see the positive side of things at the level of knowledge.

Are young hoteliers now better entrepreneurs? It was a

It was very good because they were different prisms to confront. They call you a teacher, but you say that you like being a studentI am going to learn from this interview, it will make me reflect.

I always see the positive side of things at the level of knowledge.

Are young hoteliers now better entrepreneurs? It was a

It was very good because they were different prisms to confront. They call you a teacher, but you say that you like being a studentI am going to learn from this interview, it will make me reflect.

I always see the positive side of things at the level of knowledge.

Are young hoteliers now better entrepreneurs? It was a

we had.

Keep in mind that 50% of SMEs do not last more than five years.

The new generations are changing.

On the Caixabank Lab campus, you see young people beginning to understand that a restaurant is a business, that's the first thing.

That passion will come later and everything you want, but, above all, it is a business.

Juajo López, chef at La Tasquita de Enfrente.

Experience in crisis management is gaining in recent times: pandemic, war, fuel... I put myself in their shoes and in that of the carrier, the fishmonger, the fisherman... We are a tertiary sector, almost the last in the process , and there will be no choice but to update prices, because inflation is going to reach impossible figures.

We are not even able to visualize it.

And what can a restaurant do, if everything goes up.

The raw materials, the staff... What can you do?

A waiter, in two or three years, is going to charge more than a lawyer.

Why?

Because there isn't.

A waiter in Paris in a good restaurant is earning 6,000 euros gross per month.

But there the menus are worth 350 euros.

It's the only way.

And then there are issues that are now dealt with in this business and before, when El Bulli closed, no, like ecology, sustainability,

solidarity, being vegan or vegetarian... So you understand the rise in price of Diverxo, a few months ago.

Things are worth what they are worth.

I wish they could be given away.

But on top of that now with the rise in expenses... That everything is worth 20% more.

And the menus will have to go up in price.

I know it's unpopular, but it's also unpopular that gasoline goes up.

And luckily the ICO loans helped a lot, although now it's time to pay them back.

Although I think they will extend the terms. Isn't there something of a bubble in the world of cooking?

TV contests, many star chefs, a lot of information in the media, a lot of fashion

And the menus will have to go up in price.

I know it's unpopular, but it's also unpopular that gasoline goes up.

And luckily the ICO loans helped a lot, although now it's time to pay them back.

Although I think they will extend the terms. Isn't there something of a bubble in the world of cooking?

TV contests, many star chefs, a lot of information in the media, a lot of fashion

And the menus will have to go up in price.

I know it's unpopular, but it's also unpopular that gasoline goes up.

And luckily the ICO loans helped a lot, although now it's time to pay them back.

Although I think they will extend the terms. Isn't there something of a bubble in the world of cooking?

TV contests, many star chefs, a lot of information in the media, a lot of fashion

... And how much time do you spend eating and buying food per day?

The logical thing is to spend a lot of time on it, right?

There may be cities that have a temporary bubble, but there have never been such good restaurants and such good chefs in Spain, but without question, never like now.

And do not detect an excess of show in some creative menus?

If it weren't for the avant-garde, the rest wouldn't exist.

If it weren't for Enjoy [Barcelona restaurant], Estimar wouldn't exist.

Because the cooking times of Rafa [Zafra] in Estimar come from modern, creative cuisine.

And he takes that to apply it to his new restaurant, although the concept is one of simpler cuisine. For those nostalgic for El Bulli: when does it reopen?

and in what format?

can you go eat?

We opened elBulli1846 next year.

It will be a museum to store the legacy of El Bulli.

It is a space of almost 4.

000 square meters where it will be explained what cooking is and a gastronomic experience will be lived, all under the history of El Bulli and the prism of innovation.

But the important thing is not to open next year or the other, but that in 50 years it continues, that is the difficult part.

Facade of the old Currito, in Casa de Campo.B.

DIAZ

You'll already have a waiting list of friends and commitments to go... I've been explaining it for five years, to no avail, because people keep asking the same thing.

It can be crazy when we open.

You can go in groups or in pairs, it will be an experience of two or three hours. You will not miss so many hours in the kitchen.

That is changing in the hospitality industry.

There are restaurants that are closed on Saturday and Sunday.

And places in Barcelona that are only open from 12 in the morning to five in the afternoon.

They don't earn as much money, but they are exchanging it for quality of life.

That is ok.

There has been a brutal change in this aspect.

Are you bored of giving advice? I never give it, I share experiences.

Advice is very difficult.

The CaixaBank Lab campus was born for these young people who came wanting to set up a restaurant but did not know what a business plan was.

Today it is essential to first know the numbers and then the ingredients.

And then manage a kitchen, which is like a microworld, like a small town. You regret that the Spanish culinary revolution did not have the right story.

The first thing is that it doesn't have a name, and that's how you're doing badly.

We have lacked marketing.

The journalist Pau Arenós called it techno-emotional cuisine, but since it was made from Spain, no one bought it, nor did the

, which called it 'New Nouvelle Cuisine,' which was an incredible name.

And if you now say avant-garde Spanish cuisine, no one is going to buy it from you.

There is no name and it is a serious problem.

Because in 30 years people forget.

Not Del Bulli, because it was a paradigm shift, in the history of cooking El Bulli always comes out.

Ferrán Adrià, in 2007 at El Bulli.QUIQUE GARCÍA

Without a name, its revolution, but Spain boasts a list of star chefs. It's an incredible boom, many of them passed through El Bulli.

In Spain there are 500 restaurants where you can eat fantastic.

And I don't just mean super creative cuisine.

Abroad they place Spain within the five great gastronomic powers of the world, together with Japan, France, Italy and Denmark.

There are seven million tourists a year who say that their first reason for coming to Spain is because it eats very well.

If I started over in the kitchen, would I do the same?

Yes, if anything, I would remove a little thing, but I would do the same.

I am a privileged person who has had incredible luck, who has achieved things that I never dreamed of.

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