Ricardo Sanz: "Eating abroad in a two or three Michelin star hotel is twice as expensive or more than here"

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The first memory that comes to mind for Ricardo Sanz (Madrid, 1958) of his relationship with the kitchen are the sandwiches he made for friends as a kid. "I was enjoying mine." It is 12 o'clock in the morning on the day of the Michelin Stars gala. "Is it today? I was lost," he excuses himself with a smile. Perhaps something has to do with his new professional situation; a few days ago the most traditional 'sushiman' announced the

, which will bear his name, and closed the stage in the Kabuki group after 20 years. "There were things that I did not like and I have decided to take control of my restaurants. The philosophy and the essence are going to be the same: trying to get people to eat well," he says without wanting to get into more controversy. Considered the pioneer in our country of the fusion of Japanese cuisine with Mediterranean cuisine, he maintains that respect "for purity. You have to touch food as little as possible."

Sanz is one of those who enjoys in the pit. Watching him work behind the bar is quite a spectacle; let him design the menu, the best of choices. "I

If for this they have given me the Michelin stars - he has three and seven locations - great," he says sitting in Kyoshi's room - teacher in Japanese - where he offers a more recent version. economical of your kitchen. In fact, his restaurant was the first foreign cuisine restaurant in Spain to achieve the sought-after French distinction.

The phone rings and he excuses himself.

"This is a customer who wants to reserve a table at the Wellington," he explains when he hangs up.

He does the management kindly and returns the call.

"There are people who like to say that I have made the reservation," he says without giving it more importance.

Throughout these years, he admits that he has been copied a lot.

"

" he says humbly.

"That they copy me is a pride."

The sardine nigiri with migas from La Mancha is another of the bites that continues to awaken sighs.

Now he goes around with a creation based on roasted chestnuts and hedgehog.

Kyoshi bar.

He considers himself a "tavern keeper" and says that he has always worked not to be essential. For him, the people on the team are "colleagues" and "a good work environment is essential." The ego controls it well: "We all have it but you have to know that today you can be up and tomorrow down. Better to focus on being a good person."

Its beginnings, beyond the sandwiches to colleagues, are in a hamburger restaurant that opened in the Manzanares area with just over 20 years;

later would come the tapas bar.

"Until I was 35 I did not come into contact with Japanese cuisine."

He met Tokio Taro through a friend, one of the few Japanese restaurants that existed in Madrid in the 80s -now closed-.

That changed his view of the kitchen.

He befriended the owner, Master Kikuchi, and went to work under his command.

"I wanted to learn everything."

Ricardo Sanz cuts a piece of bull.

He still enjoys learning today. "I think if you feel like it, you never stop doing it."

. Richard Gere, who to his surprise asked to take a picture with him, Sergio Ramos, Alejandro Sanz, Juan Echanove and the president of Toyota are some of the characters who have visited his restaurants. "I was especially excited that the Toyota owner specifically asked to come and see my kitchen." remember. He has a lot of customers who repeat and even ask for the same thing every time he goes.

The first trip to Japan was in 2006. "I've already been seven times," he adds sarcastically.

"In 2005, they told me 'a lot of Japanese cuisine but you haven't traveled there yet.'

The Japanese Government awarded him in 2016 for his work as a

.

"In Spain I think there are not many who have achieved it."

Plate of bull sashimi.

Teacher in different schools, he is not very fond of cooking reality shows.

From Japanese from Madrid, recommends Umiko.

And when he makes a reservation at a restaurant, he seeks «to go to friendly houses: Cuenllas, Angelita, Don Giovanni ... There are 20 or 30 new places that I have not been to.

He speaks wonders of The Good Life (Conde de Xiquena, 8), to whom he would give a Michelin star.

Regarding the latest controversy over the price increase of the DiverXo menu (three Michelin stars), it is clear to him.

"

. Eating out in a two or three star hotel is twice or more than here."

-What's the best they have said about your kitchen?

-It was a client who told me: 'You are the man who has given me the most pleasure without touching me' (laughs).

Kyoshi.

San Agustín, 3. Double Tree by Hilton Prado Hotel.

Tel .: 91 737 19 22. Average price: 70 euros.

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Note to reader

As an Affiliate, METRÓPOLI obtains income from affiliated purchases that meet the applicable requirements.

The inclusion of links does not influence the editorial independence of this medium: the editors select and analyze the products freely, according to their criteria and specialized knowledge

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