In autumn, the forest comes alive with beeches, pines and oaks,
rejoicing
in chantarellas, boletus edulis, chanterelles, chanterelles, elvers Monte ... True
delicatessen dining
and high nutritional value.
And, although these days the weather has not been very good (cold things), mushrooms star in the proposals of a large number of
restaurants in the capital
, becoming for the pleasure of the most
seteros
into the stars of these days.
Here is a sample of some of those dining rooms, which we present here alphabetically.
Boletus with egg, in Maple.
Maple
The unrepeatable
Iñaki Camba
, a real Madrid restaurant institution, continues to ask the diner who visits his home, in the Chueca neighborhood, if he is hungry, hungry or eager? To propose a custom menu, which starts from the main dish and goes backwards. In his proposal, attached to the seasons, he does not miss one of his great passions:
mushrooms
. The master of Zarautz offers them in different preparations (baked, grilled, with potatoes
to the importance
...). "These days we make thick noodles, called grasses, with mushrooms and foie ... Any mushroom can be taken with a
garlic-scented oil
;
put an egg yolk ... Today we have some boletus edulis and thistle mushroom, trumpet of the dead, cow's tongue, mountain elver (
Cantharellus lutescens)
, chanterelle (
Cantharellus cibarius)
... ". He serves them
" to the consumer taste
in portions, whole or half, and up to a third, "says the teacher, always escorted by Maite Carrillo, his wife. Price: from 24 euros a portion, 15 the average and between 9 and 11 a third.
Address :
Augusto Figueroa, 32. Tel .: 91 522 04 40.
Mushroom and truffle rice, in Arzábal Retiro.
Arzábal Retiro
Since its origins, in the brand of
Álvaro Castellano and Iván Morales they
have opted for the setero product with which they make different preparations. Among the queens of its offer, right now the rice with mushrooms and truffle and the chanterelles with stewed potatoes stand out. The first course is,
conceptually, a risotto
that, instead of cheese, has butter to make it lighter and juicier. Before making the broth to cook the rice,
the
seasonal
mushrooms are dehydrated
so that they release the juice and the dish takes all its flavor (22 euros). The second is a
traditional stew
with a base of vegetables and tomato so that its sweet touch gently contrasts with the
bitterness of the chanterelles
(18 euros).
Address:
Avenida de Menéndez Pelayo, 13. Tel .: 914 09 56 61.
Manchega flower fried with crème anglaise and chanterelle, at El Brote.
The outbreak
Mushrooms and other wild species are the guiding threads of the proposal of this restaurant near the Madrid Rastro not only in autumn, but also the rest of the year. At the head, its founders:
Pablo Roncal
, who works as chef,
Eduardo Antón
and
Álvaro de la Torre
, both experienced collectors and seteros by profession. The main characteristic of its offer is that it moves to the beat of
nature's
whims
, that is why these days (maybe tomorrow will be other dishes) they have pickled pied de mouton, with melva and roasted aubergine; trumpet of the dead with duck breast, green beans, peaches, potatoes, mint and plum sauce and fried Manchega flower with English cream and chanterelles. Average price: 35 euros.
Address:
Ruda, 14. Tel .: 652 17 33 19.
Boletus carpaccio, in El Cisne Azul.
The Blue Swan
We come to Chueca and to this essential name in the capital's setera offer that dispatches mushrooms all year round in its two establishments -the restaurant (reservation is essential) and the tavern-.
At the head are Julián Pulido, a renowned mycologist, and his son
Miguel Ángel
, responsible for a proposal that always responds to what
the season
and the market offer, hence what we are telling you today may not be there tomorrow or the end of week.
Among the different preparations available these days, there are star dishes such as boletus in carpaccio, or also with cakes from Casar or with blue stilton;
lentinus with scallops
;
scrambled eggs with black truffle and egg;
flammulinas with foie;
mountain elvers with jabugo ham;
thistle mushrooms with lamb gizzards ... Average price: 45 euros.
Address
: Gravina, 19 and 27. Tel .: 91 521 37 99 and 91 112 90 80.
Grilled chanterelles, in La Cocina de María Luisa.
The Maria Luisa Kitchen
This house in the Salamanca district is an obligatory stop for fans of
mycological cuisine
. And it is that
María Luisa Banzo
- its owner and cook, with Soria roots - handles the delicacies of the forest like few others. Thus, these days, in addition to the chanterelles (
his favorite mushroom
) grilled, pickled, stewed with potatoes or as an accompaniment to a hunting dish (the other pillar of the restaurant's proposal), it offers boletus carpaccio,
poached beans with tongue beef
, eggs with autumn truffle, wild boar sirloin with chantarella ... That is in terms of the season, because throughout the year their tables continue to be a mycological feast: thistle mushroom cake, truffle and smoked salmon; toast with mushrooms, foie and fig and muscat sauce;
Pig's trotter stuffed
with meat and truffle from Soria, the
hit
of the dining room .... Price: from 15 euros.
Address:
Jorge Juan, 42. Tel .: 91 781 01 80.
Counter of The Empire.
The Empire
Centennial house
in the Argüelles neighborhood
where mushrooms always reign. Coming from all over Spain - from the Basque Country to Huelva ("in the north of this province is where there is the greatest variety of mushrooms," reveals Juan Miguel Mendoza, who has been in charge of the premises for four years) - they hardly have any handling in the kitchen. For this reason, the preferred preparations are sauteed, grilled,
round and round
: the chantarella sautéed with garlic and parsley; the beef tongue with garlic and onion; mountain elvers with garlic and chilli; the grilled boletus; the thistle mushroom with garlic and parsley ("
the most humble
and the richest," says Mendoza) and, with the same preparation, he
fills it
.
We continue: trumpets of the dead in tempura, senderuela in scrambled eggs ... And a
tasting
of five varieties, each with a different treatment.
And if you're still hungry, try the
oxtail
, including the national prize, and the
boneless
pig's trotters
, both recipes with mushrooms.
Price: from 15 euros.
Address:
Galileo, 51. Telf .: 91 549 51 71. To book this restaurant click here.
Seasonal mushrooms with herbs, free-range eggs and crunchy Iberian ham, at Palacio de Cibeles.
Cibeles Palace
In this
elegant restaurant
with modern decoration and with a terrace whose views are breathtaking (for a reason it is located on the sixth floor of the Palacio de Cibeles, headquarters of the Madrid City Council) they also point to the setero world. At the head is
Javier Muñoz
, son of the great Adolfo Muñoz (Adolfo Restaurante, in Toledo), who makes use of
creative cuisine, from La Mancha roots
, to prepare these days a couple of hearty dishes: seasonal mushrooms with herbs, free-range egg and crunchy Iberian ham (26 euros) and a rice without stir-fry, partridge, trumpet of death, chives and macerated cherry tomato (27.50 euros).
Address:
Plaza Cibeles, 1. Tel .: 91 523 14 54. To book this restaurant click here.
Paco Garcia, surrounded by mushrooms in Pozano.
Ponzano
For more than 30 years,
Paco García has been
feeding locals in his restaurant on the gastronomic Calle de Ponzano.
Here what you take is the
kitchen of a lifetime
(do not miss your spoon dishes or your tortilla skewer), close to the season.
For this reason, these days mushrooms are very present in the
off-the-menu
and also make a place in the menu of the day.
And what does it usually offer?
Boletus with eggs or with lentils, foie gras and truffle;
potatoes with chanterelles and ribs
;
matured beef meatballs with mushrooms;
scrambled eggs with wild mushrooms
with chanterelle, mountain eel and trumpet of the dead;
Grilled assortment (thistle mushroom and chanterelle) ... Varieties that change depending on what Paco finds in the market that day.
Price: according to market.
Address:
Ponzano, 12. Tel .: 91 448 68 80.
Beltza mushroom sautéed with farmhouse egg yolk and pigeon juice, in Sagardi Castellana.
Sagradi Castellana
The Basque Country is a land of mushrooms, something that is well known in this establishment in La Castellana, which belongs to
the Sagardi group
.
Collected by themselves in the forest, they give life to recipes such as the
beltza mushroom
-from the beech trees of Guipúzcoa- sautéed with farmhouse egg yolk and pigeon juice;
Seafood dishes such
as cod snout with clams, fresh mushrooms and a background of green sauce;
a honeyed
omelette of fresh mushrooms
of the day or a creamy croquette of beltza mushroom and thin and crunchy batter.
Average price: 50 euros.
Address:
Paseo de la Castellana, 13. Tel: 91 308 62 81. To book this restaurant, click here.
Boletus in two textures, at La Tasquita de Enfrente.
La Tasquita de Enfrente
If anyone knows about seasonal products and how to treat them, that is
Juanjo López Bedmar.
The pattern of this house near Madrid's Gran Vía is faithful to a philosophy that repeats almost like a mantra: "
No more than three ingredients"
so that raw material is the absolute queen.
And that is precisely what happens with
the three mushrooms
that these days star in their offer: boletus in two textures, chanterelles with sausage and thistle mushrooms with Iberian veil.
Price: 32-38 euros.
Address:
Ballesta, 6. Tel .: 91 532 54 49.
Grilled boletus with egg, in Treze.
Thirteen
Market cuisine
, seasonal produce ... and, therefore, game and mushrooms
are brought
in
Saúl Sanz's
dining room
.
Place of pilgrimage for lovers of both raw materials, in the Madrid chef's restaurant we usually find
dishes such
as
roast pigeon with gyozas and portobello
al oloroso, pickled
chanterelle
salad or charcoal-roasted boletus and fried egg.
Average price: 40 euros.
Address
: General Pardiñas, 34. Tel .: 91 541 07 17.
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