The Vallehermoso market, where eating (and buying) luxury is the norm

Going to a market for dinner with a tasting menu that could well deserve a Michelin star, shopping at the stall where Dabiz Muñoz does it, eating some of the richest ribs in the city, discovering endless organic wines or trying some homemade empanadas from cry ... All this and much more is the Vallehermoso Market, in the Chamberí neighborhood, perhaps

.

That was six or seven years ago. Alejandro Rodríguez remembers it well while cutting a ham with a knife. He started working in the market when he was 15 years old and after 51 years at the pit he has seen almost everything. “

. Eight years ago, we were at 50% and going down. Then there was a bar; now almost 30 ». comments. In 1981 he bought the deli; in 1985 the butter shop run by his wife Mari and, later, the bakery. "Now we are trying to transfer the business and it is very difficult to find people who know the trade."

It is 11:00 in the morning on a Tuesday.

The activity begins to show.

They know each other and buy from each other, they are like a

.

Covid has put them on the ropes and sticking their heads out again is costing theirs.

Despite everything, they continue to expand the 'family' with new members, such as Brie Alto, a position specializing in French cheeses and gourmet products.

One of the best known on the market is Higinio Gómez, most likely

.

His are positions 13 and 14, where the best chefs usually go to buy much of their genre.

He has tasted all the market stalls because he is also a 'foodie'.

In the center of the market is La Relojería where there used to be a flower stall.

"There were 30 greengrocers, 14 fishmongers and three variant shops," recalls Alejandro, who is grateful to young people for betting on the markets.

Much of the blame for what is now Vallehermoso is in

, which since 2015 has made a claim to its street cuisine from Southeast Asia.

When they opened, only the Japanese Washoku and the Prost grill were operational.

His risky proposal and at an affordable price

, who saw in the market a place to set up their business.

Batcher is one of the most recent additions.

Organic wines - a good time to give them a try - and pickles are its strong points.

Opened in 1933, this market then filled the neighborhood with life.

Hand in hand with the hospitality industry, it now returns to take flight with force.

"

" they say from the management.

That the market of a lifetime, in short, continue to make people talk.

Here are some of the positions that are worth a visit.

Javier González, at his Picón post.

PICÓN: FLAVORS OF THE CANARY ISLANDS

Javier González, a 47-year-old from Tenerife, is at the helm of this stand where potatoes, mojos, cheeses and wines put very long teeth. It has a shop and a tasting corner where you can sit and taste its delicacies. "Cheese and wine are the undisputed stars," he says from the other side of the counter. They have been making the best of their land known for three and a half years. «

».

With the pandemic, they had to boost home delivery and by the end of the year they will have the online store ready.

"Almost all Canarian products on the Peninsula are produced by us."

From its long list of products, special mention should be made of the cheeses from the Quesería Artesanal del Rosario, located in Agaete (Gran Canaria);

the salmon from Uga, from Lanzarote, and the wines from the Loher winery, from Tenerife.

They have an appetizing assortment of Canarian chocolates.

Sissa Verde, soul of Linda Pastissa.

LINDA PASTISSA: A MATTER OF PASTA

Behind this brand is the Neapolitan Sissa Verde (41 years old), who started by selling her fresh pasta through Instagram. Now it is part of the Ultraurbanos project, a market stall in Vallehermoso where different artisan producers have joined forces. "Always with a 0 km philosophy," he points out.

, from the dough and the cut to the filling.

Graduated in History of Art, she tries to make each piece something unique and special.

"Aesthetics is important too."

His specialty is stuffed pasta, because, he says, it is where the difference between a quality pasta and a bad one is clear.

“I want people to appreciate pasta as it deserves.

And that the prices are in accordance with the raw material used and with the production.

It has kits for two for 16 euros.

In this space you can also taste the delicious cakes from Reposted, the jams from Brutal and discover the chai latte from Chimo Chai.

The 'Javis' of the market.

THE 2 OF VALLEHERMOSO: WITH THREE INGREDIENTS

It is one of the spaces in the market that is going to give more to talk about. Javier García (47 years old) and Javier Lafuente (44) settled in the position a year ago. "We liked the atmosphere and the energy it has with the mix of groceries and restaurants." In the statements of their dishes there are no more than three ingredients, because they want the product to stand out and be clearly identified. "That does not mean that in the elaborations we do not use more", they say. They regularly change the menu and throw away seasonal produce, mostly purchased from neighboring stalls. "There are dishes that we have for two weeks, such as beans or tear peas." The less is more here they are clear. "We have 12 rotating plates." They don't want to talk about star dishes, but the truth is that their tripe has made a fixed place on the menu almost by popular acclaim. Half price:35-45 euros.

Richard Dhieras and his roquefort.

BRIE ALTO: GALAS TEMPTATIONS

Richard Dhieras (picture) and Pauline Vallantin Dulac are brothers-in-law, Bordeaux natives and passionate about good food.

With this profile, they opened their second space in this market before the summer - in Chamberí they have the other one.

«

", bill.

"95% of the cheese we sell is French, raw milk and shepherd's".

When buying, it is advisable to listen to their recommendations.

The Roquefort they sell is 100% artisanal: «There are seven producers left in France and only two of them are still artisanal.

We are lucky enough to offer it here », he says.

Another of the most appreciated by customers is the 18-month count.

"It is a very aromatic and exquisite cheese," explains Richard.

To accompany they have a careful selection of wines.

Butter and cream have a very good press.

Kitchen 154's kitchen in full action.

KITCHEN 154: THE MOST THUG JOB

They hit the market in 2015 and turned it upside down. Its rich and spicy street cuisine spread from mouth to mouth through Madrid and a month after opening they were full.

.

Its name refers to the degrees Fahrenheit with which food works, always at a low temperature.

Their ribs have become a hit of the place;

They have 12 hours of cooking and a lot of pampering behind.

"We do everything at the moment," they say.

And that shows.

Their sausage and kimchi dumpling and shrimp curries and red lentils must be tasted on a first visit.

With the pandemic looming, they launched the online store, which worked wonderfully.

Now they have let it rest to reopen it in 2022 more calmly.

Their odd portions "to screw the couples" are the hallmark of the house.

Average price: 25 euros.

Roberto Martínes, next to his post.

TRIPEA: THE 'STAR' OF THE MARKET

Roberto Martínez Foronda's stand has the Bib Gourmand, the recognition that the Michelin Guide gives to those restaurants with excellent value for money. He opened his local Peruvian-Asian cuisine with a Spanish base with the idea of ​​valuing the life of the market and he has succeeded in doing so. Getting a table at Tripea is a matter of taking it easy or doing it weeks in advance. "The support of the people is incredible," he says with his kitchen. Their wok mussel ceviche, an iconic dish of the house, never disappoints. In their social networks they usually show dishes that they are incorporating - that mackerel ceviche are big words - and products that they are preparing, such as their 100% homemade kimchis and with different chili peppers. Its version of pickled anchovies is impossible to leave you indifferent. In the pandemic they created Triperito,its delivery. Menu: 35 euros.

The Craft 19 and its pastrami sandwich.

CRAFT 19: THE TRUE PASTRAMI SANDWICH

Craig Kolleger, the New Yorker behind all this, wanted to introduce the authentic pastrami sandwich of his country. His creations of home-cured pastrami in the American style enter the eyes first. In a sandwich they have the original version with slices of cheese, mustard and Russian sauce on crystalline bread (34.90 euros whole / 17.50 half) and the spicy one. Another option is to opt for the pork loin, with cheese, coleslaw and chipotle BBQ sauce. For hamburger lovers, there is also a very appetizing offer. The beef burger with lots of havarti cheese and Russian sauce, on a crystal bun, is always a good choice. To accompany the meal they offer 14 craft beer taps, mostly from the UK, which change regularly. His Instagram is full of mouthwatering bites.

Alejandro Rodríguez, at the head of his stand, on the 29th of the market.

BATTERY AND SAUSAGE ALEJANDRO RODRÍGUEZ: EL VETERANO

Alejandro Rodríguez has lived through everything in the market. At the age of 15 he began to work in it and today he is about to retire with his wife, in charge of the butter and bakery that is next to the watchmaker's stand. “We cannot find people to transfer the business to him. This is a trade that requires practice and knowledge. You have to know how to cut a ham, "he says, placing the item in the display case. Milk, cans of preserves, eggs, jams ... In their stalls you will find everything you need to fill the pantry. "We are very grateful that there are young people who bet on traditional markets," says Mari, his wife. "That also rejuvenates the neighborhood, something that is very positive for everyone." All the restaurants in the area buy here. "Whenever something is missing, we have it." They like to try all the offer that is installed there."I love Kitchen 154," she says.

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