We have rejuvenated those of us who remembered times when a Torta del Casar or a red Iberian pork meat
were unknown in Madrid and we
suddenly discovered them on a trip to Cáceres or Huelva.
Well, we have returned to Huelva without going past the restaurant
Tabernacle Tradition of Chamartín, to discover ... that there was another Iberian pig! It is the
spotted Iberian pig
, and there were reasons not to know it:
almost extinct
, it is
being recovered
by a few enthusiastic farmers from Jabugo. The breed is registered as an Endangered Native Breed by the Ministry of Agriculture. And this week
we have tried it for the first time in the capital
.
There are currently no more than
150 breeding female
Iberian spotted pigs, and the young farmer
Francis García Pavón
has about twenty of these animals, a herd that is growing slowly. The owner of Sagrario Traálisis,
José Sud
, who knows the family well, has secured a batch of meat from the former montanera -frozen since then- and chef
Víctor Prada presents it in various ways
and using different cuts, in his style traditional and updated at the same time.
According to the information that the farmer himself has provided, it is an animal
somewhat smaller than the common Iberian
, which is distinguished by its large amount of hair, its irregular spots and its extraordinary
ability to assimilate the oils of the acorn
and infiltrate the fat in the muscle -which has an appearance that reminds us of bovine breeds such as wagyu-, which is not the case of the most well-known Iberian pig.
That is why
its meat is very juicy and tasty
, with subtle nuances and a sweet touch that sometimes recalls veal.
Iberian pork on the grill.
This information provided about this Iberian variety adds that
its origin
, the result of the cross between an
English white male and a native female
, dates back to the
19th century
and, although for more than 150 years he was the king of the Iberian hut in Jabugo, swine fever of 1958, the color of their hoof -sometimes black, sometimes white due to the uneven pigmentation of their skin- and their low productivity - they
take longer to get fat
and their hams more to cure due to their abundant marbling- made it practically disappear from the Huelva dehesa until a few years ago, when a handful of passionate producers began to recover it in the area.
In the García Pavón farm in
Galaroza,
four kilometers from Jabugo, unlike other farms, their animals
enjoy total freedom from birth
: when they are piglets they spend two months - instead of 21 days - with the mother in the open air -and not in childbirth shirts-;
their primal period runs in the field feeding on natural feed and
in the montanera they enjoy 50 hectares of pasture
plagued with acorns, chestnuts, strawberry trees and herbs.
In muffin.
The sample of how
Sagrario Tradition
started
to work with this meat is varied: with the
most noble cuts
-prey, feather, secret, lizard, fan, chop, sirloin and bacon-, the chef and his team prepare simple
recipes in the oven or grilled that enhance the texture
and flavor of the breed.
While stocks are exhausted
, you can find
out of the menu
proposals such as spotted Iberian pig leg roasted in a wood oven, a version of pastrami with smoked flavor and accompanied with potato, tartar sauce and brioche bread; flame fan and tie with homemade chimichurri or antequerano bacon muffin,
laborious piece for being pure butter that here they cure in salt and sugar
for 12 hours, mature in the restaurant's chamber for a week, confit at 70 degrees for 20 long hours, dry over the fire where it
acquires smoky notes
and turns and back through the oak charcoal grill.
In addition, with the fattier parts of the animal, they made us more elaborate recipes such as fresh sausages with
white wine and clams
, cheeks or potatoes with ribs.
It is different, it
is more delicate than the Iberian
we know and undoubtedly comes to expand the culinary possibilities of our
native pig
.
It's like, in beef cattle, we can go from the old ox to the veal.
According to the criteria of The Trust Project
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