Refreshing, with just the right point of acidity and, above all, marine. This is how a
ceviche
should be
, that dish where fish and shellfish shine, diced and marinated in ice, lime, chili, salt and red onion and, often, coriander and other herbs. A recipe that few knew 20 years ago and that today is common in the letters of almost
all of Madrid
. Its origin is located in Peru, although it is also claimed by Mexicans and has influences from Spanish pickling. The truth is that it is already
more universal than national
(who has not heard of tiger milk, often a faithful escort of this dish?) And if not, take a look at the
cevichera
proposal
of the capital, where we find versions
classic, fusion, author and even hooligans
.
Tampu.
We start with the modern and creative Peruvian cuisine of
Miguel Valdiviezo in Tampu
(Prim, 13), where each dish has a reason and a
story to tell
. Something that is also
recounted by
the four ceviches that this restaurant offers right now, which, since 2016, is located in the Las Salesas neighborhood.
Máncora
,
the secret history of the lobster and the truffle
:
lobster
ceviche
cooked in sea water
with zarandajas, avocado and onion; served on its shell with the head sautéed and smoked in the wok and sliced fresh seasonal truffle; all accompanied by some
false cassava truffles
battered with ground of Peruvian botija olives.
The pachamanquero
, inspired by a meat dish that is replaced here by
wok seafood with a touch of smoke
and fire;
It is accompanied by potatoes, sweet potatoes, corn, corn, beans, huacatay and chili peppers and, at the end, it is mixed with a corvina ceviche.
The amazonico
, of corvina, prepared with tiger's milk made with charapita chili pepper and fresh turmeric (key cooking ingredients of the
Peruvian Amazon
) and accompanied by plantain patacón stuffed with avocado and green mango.
And the
classic
: corvina, onion, coriander and lime juice with cancha, sweet potato and corn and tiger milk (prices: from 22 to 40 euros).
Piscomar by Jhosef Arias.
If something characterizes the restaurant of chef Jhosef Arias -
Piscomar by Jhosef Arias
(Carrera de San Francisco, 15) - it is its
unique offer
of ceviches (or cebiches, a spelling that the Peruvian chef prefers, because it derives from "encebollado, and the Peruvian cebiche it comes from the influence of the Spanish pickle ", explains Arias).
Thus, you can start with some oysters in oriental tiger milk with ají limo and continue with the three
cebiches
of the house: the
local
hit
,
Sabe Peru
(fish, tiger milk and yellow pepper);
the
Tumbesino
(fish, squid, octopus, prawn and tiger's milk) or the
Verdoso
, with the same ingredients as the previous one to which coriander is added (prices: from 4 to 18.50 euros).
More proper names and more tradition.
El Inca
(Gravina, 23), the famous
Peruvian
restaurant
in Chueca
that brought ceviches to Madrid long before they became
fashionable
, is one of the essentials on any route featuring Peruvian cuisine, its lesser-known recipes and also this refreshing dish.
Here, they make their famous trio every day to share: corvina en leche de tigre;
of tuna in yellow chili sauce and mixed, with squid, prawn, mussel in hot pepper sauce (price: 28 euros).
El Caral.
He is barely a year old and
El Caral
(Tellez, 20) is already one of the leading Peruvians in the capital.
Ceviches have great weight in their proposal of traditional cuisine of the Andean country.
Up to 12 offer this dining room in the Pacific neighborhood.
From
charapita
(a tribute to the Peruvian Amazon, with fish marinated and cooked with lime juice and a
touch of turmeric
, accompanied by patacón, corn, avocado and purple onion) to
El Caral
(with fish and seafood marinated in lime juice and ají amarillo), through the
classics of sea bass or sea bass
and mixed (prices: from 10 to 24 euros).
Inti de Oro.
And from a new place to a classic in the capital,
Inti de Oro
(Ventura de la Vega, 12 / Edgar Neville, 17).
Eight proposals are currently on the letter.
Here is a trio as a sample: corvina in lime juice with a
touch of ají limo
, Peruvian spices and red onion, with corn, sweet potato and cacha;
the
creamy green seafood
bathed in tiger's milk, made with coriander, or the corvina with tiger's milk,
yellow chili pepper and kiwi,
with cancha land and crispy sweet potato (prices: from 10 to 17 euros).
Wanted.
Quispe
, in addition to one of the most popular surnames in Peru, is the name of this restaurant in the Salamanca district (Orellana, 1). Its offer includes four proposals:
classic
, with cubes of wild sea bass marinated with tiger milk;
Q
, with corvina, chopped octopus and squid pork rinds marinated with tiger milk and yellow chili pepper;
Mixed
, cockles, corvina, squid and prawns with rocoto tiger's milk, and
battered
, which has corvina and battered tiger's milk and pieces of avocado (prices: from 22 to 24 euros). Also his little brother,
Ponja
(Almirante, 20), bets on ceviche. Located in the Las Salesas neighborhood, this restaurant with
Nikkei cuisine
that fuses Japanese and Peruvian gastronomy proposes the classic corvina and the
Ponja de hamachi
(prices: 22 euros).
Ponja.
At
Barracuda MX
(Valenzuela, 7), the new Mexican house with a touch of the Pacific that
Roberto Ruiz
opened a few months ago just a step away from Retiro, the chilango opts for
short macerations
to add subtle touches of spice and acidity.
An example of this is the
green prawn ceviche
with roasted green tomatillo, a show of flavor that you can try if you are one of the lucky ones who has managed to get a table in this dining room for which everyone sighs.
And we do not leave the
MX universe
.
Cascabel Room
, the Mexican treat located in the Gourmet Experience of El Corte Inglés (Serrano, 52), proposes one of scallops with jalapeño emulsion, avocado, red onion, radishes and tortilla chips (price: 16.20 euros).
Cascabel Room.
Although it is sometimes difficult to get a place in
Tripea
, that place that Roberto Martínez Foronda opened four years ago in the Vallehermoso Market (Vallehermoso, 36), do not despair and join the waiting list, there is usually luck.
Its
Spanish-
based
Peruvian-Asian cuisine
proposal
focuses on a seven-step menu, which now includes two ceviche options:
the house
hit
, with
wok mussels
, and the
sea bass with tiger milk
.
And, if you prefer to take it at home, a version of the sea bass ceviche with yellow pepper is also available at Triperito, the
delivery
(price: 15.50 euros).
Round, 14.
The cuisine of
Mario Céspedes
reflects the life experience of this Peruvian chef: he trained in Lima, did
stages
in Spanish Michelin stars and fell in love with Asturias.
The result of all this are
Ronda 14
(General Oráa, 25), where he mixes the Peruvian, the Chifa and the Nikkei with the Asturian, and
Cilindro
(Don Ramón de la Cruz, 83), a commitment to Creole cuisine, in which Andean and Asturian are combined.
In the first, Céspedes proposes a
xarda
ceviche
with tiger's milk, ají limo
and squid (price: 16.50 euros);
in the second, do not miss the
green with huacatay and mango
and the ceviche with hot pepper and avocado cream (prices: 15.90 euros).
Cylinder
More fusion. In
Latasia
(Paseo de la Castellana, 115) and
Taramara
(Avda.
De
los Arces, 11) Sergio and Roberto Hernández bet on the
Lima ceviche
, which they make with their own tiger milk with ginger, celery, garlic, purple onion, lime and fish stock. To
balance the acidity
, they are served with roasted sweet potato puree, fried cancha corn, fried plantain and creole, a julienne onion with salt, lime and coriander. In addition, they make the yellow chili paste themselves (prices: 16.95 euros).
The ceviche is also present in the Mexican
El Cartel de Mawey
(Blasco de Garay, 10), where they serve a
green
sea bass and seafood
, tiger milk with organic jalapeños and tomatillo (price: 9.80 euros).
The option of
Krápula
(Jorge Juan, 27), the traditional-oceanic and more
hooligan
proposal
of the Zoko Group
in the capital, is a ceviche of sea bass, octopus and cockles (price: 16 euros).
And not far from there, in
Ramsés
(Plaza de la Independencia, 4), a gastronomic and leisure reference in the capital for almost two decades, they sign up for the classic corvina al ají amarillo (price: 22 euros).
Chifa.
In
Chifa
(Modesto Lafuente, 64), the brothers Julián and Luis Miguel Gil have a good hand to merge the gastronomies of Latin America and the easternmost part of Asia and, as a result of that union, proposals such as
Ceviche complete
with two chili peppers,
corvina, scallops and octopus
(price: 17.50 euros).
We closed with
Distrito Ceviche
, which opened a little more than a year ago and which now has three stores (Princesa, 79 and in the La Paz and Vallehermoso markets).
Your offer:
Classic
;
Caribeño
(with salmon,
crispy sweet potato strings
, corn, cancha, red onion, coriander and
passion fruit tiger milk
);
Nikkei
(tuna and salmon, cancha, sweet potato puree, wakame and nikkei tiger milk);
Captain
(octopus, prawns and squid with tiger's milk and yellow pepper) and
Custom
, to taste (price: from 14.90 euros).
According to the criteria of The Trust Project
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