Does anyone doubt the pull that
Dani García
and his gastronomic projects have? It is not necessary for the reservation website to go down - as it happened a few days ago after the opening of its two new restaurants, according to the chef himself - to confirm it. The
Andalusian chef
(Marbella, 1975), restless, determined, enterprising, determined ... almost hyperactive, has just inaugurated in Madrid the long-awaited
Leña
(Madrid branch of the
homonymous
steakhouse
that opened in Marbella a year ago).
Leña is at the Hyatt Regency Hesperia Hotel, in the place that
Santceloni
once occupied
, and it comes with a
surprise included
, because a
boutique restaurant for 14 people
emerges
: Smoked Room.
Two dining rooms with the same location and
different proposals
.
It seems that Dani García -BiBo (Madrid, Marbella, Tarifa and Doha), Lobito de Mar (Marbella and Madrid), Leña (Marbella, in the defunct Dani García Restaurant, closed in 2019, one year after obtaining the three Michelin stars), Dani Brasserie (Four Seasons Madrid hotel) and the La Gran Familia Mediterránea delivery-
has taken a run and opens the concepts to pairs
.
Madrid Firewood Hall.
Both, Leña and Smoked Room, share, in addition to the postal address and the studio that has been in charge of the
interior design
(
Astet and Neolith
), a common thread:
smoke
. And up to here, because each one has its place, its
concept and its team
. We start with the novelty within the novelty: Smoked Room. It is an exclusive space for grilled haute cuisine with a unique offer, the
Fire Omakase tasting
menu
, which adopts the Japanese concept of "putting yourself in the hands of the chef." "It is a direct cuisine, thinking about the diner and not the ego of the cook", explains the Andalusian chef. Thus, meat, fish, seafood and vegetables are touched by smoke and embers, elaboration techniques to which is added the
maturation of meat and fish
, thanks to the two aging chambers they have.
Smoked Room.
And we go to the substance;
that is, to that closed proposal that exceeds ten passes.
For example,
yeast butter
with grilled avocado.
Or the version of a classic in the chef's culinary history:
the nitro tomato, which here looks white
- and not the usual bright red - and with a mousse that tastes like smoked eel (Smoked
nitro tomato 02
).
Or, following the game of astonishment, a surprising
Andalusian stew with seaweed
and grilled caviar;
a viceroy cured with sabayon in miso and peas;
king crab tart ... Dishes that will change depending on the day and the market.
The yakipinchos or toripinchos, the 'leñera' version of the Japanese yakitori.
In the liquid part, Smoked Room also has its course;
that is to say,
its own wine list by Rodrigo González
, as well as spirits and cocktails.
We return to Leña, who could be Dani García's "right eye" if he had preferences, since it was the
first concept
he created after leaving
haute cuisine
and opting for something more uninhibited and
casual
.
A modern space (you know, open kitchen and a central bar), where
blacks, wood
and some gold
reign
and, of course, fire, embers and smoked flavor.
Foie to spread with roasted garlic (trompe l'oeil).
Here,
technique and product go hand
in
hand
to create a menu marked by the personal touch of the Andalusian chef and his international influences.
Go for it.
To start, grilled aubergine mashed with EVOO and pita bread (
baba ganoush
);
grilled bimi and romesco sauce;
charcoal leek
, truffled Iberian pork mortadella, gribiche sauce and hazelnuts;
Grilled Malaga avocado, young coriander pesto and vegetable salad with feta cheese or foie (apple trompe l'oeil) for a spread and roasted garlic sprouts and seasoned with lemon.
Grilled avocado with young coriander pesto and vegetable spatter.
We can continue with the
smoked beef pretzel
, tartar sauce, pickle and pickled onion; the Turkish lamb kebab, yogurt sauce and pita bread; the
yakipinchos or toripinchos
(the
wood
version
of the famous Japanese yakitori) of chicken thigh, lemon wings, breast and green pesto ... or also wagyu (limited edition). And, for the most carnivorous, Iberian prey and feather, beef tenderloin,
wagyu
loin, old
beef rib eye
, among other cuts. And
matured meats
, such as the old cow ribeye or the beef.
We started with the restless Dani García and we will continue with him, because in the coming months he plans to continue his
international expansion
and open stores in London, Paris, New York, Miami and Saudi Arabia.
Smoked burrata.
Firewood:
Paseo de la Castellana, 57. Reservations: 91 108 55 66. It does not close.
Average price: 40-60 euros.
Smoked Room:
Paseo de la Castellana, 57. Reservations: 91 108 62 77. Closed Sundays and Mondays.
Menu price: 135 euros;
80 euros (cellar).
According to the criteria of The Trust Project
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