There is, now that the pandemic continues, a

hotel phenomenon in Madrid

like that of Menéndez Pelayo and Ibiza, where the frenzy of openings of bars and restaurants seems even greater than in the famous Ponzano area. And perhaps the most curious expression of that tingling is that of the block next to Doctor Castelo street, populated with very narrow places,

one every three meters of sidewalk or so

, once the best known and reputed of all, Arzábal, has passed. It is in the very corner of the turning. Around there are Sanchis Bar Marisquería, Can Bonet, Sa Brisa, the Tita gastronomic store in Buenos Aires Retiro, La Fonda de Algora, the La Panotheca bakery ... with a few tables on the street each, confused those of a local with those of another.

The set is so variegated that one could overlook one more,

La Bodeguita del Arte II

. A high table, a tiny bar, a very narrow corridor that can accommodate a few tables for two,

all very spartan

. Minimalism, they said? But what matters:

the cuisine is not minimalist

but popular, a Castilian tradition with some cautious exotic wink -the magnificent green asparagus in tempura, for example- and that is worth knowing.

It is difficult to imagine that such a tiny restaurant can survive if it is not known that there is a

Bodeguita del Arte I in Bargas

, a town in La Sagra toledana just north of the imperial city, and they have entrusted us that a Bodeguita III is being prepared in Madrid. As the tradition of our area wants, it began as a tavern 35 years ago in which

the mother of Chencho Alonso

, current owner, began to cook stews for the clientele. Chencho also encouraged himself to cook, and is now accompanied by his

son Miguel Ángel

. In fact, the fun menu

separates the stews from one to the other

, and also the custom dishes, some of which - the aforementioned stew, for example - makes the short trip from Bargas to Retiro in a pot.

In the varied offer, marinades occupy an important place, so classic in Castilla La Nueva, and after the

asparagus

we opted to try its most spectacular version: the tasting of four of them, fresh bonito, anchovy (with tomato mash and olive powder black), mussels (on hot pickled potato chips) and salmon fillet (with onion and carrots). A

very light and fine

marinade

, a very rich dish

.

Then we pay tribute to the Toledo tradition with those typical

carcamusas

, one of Chencho's stews, which raises a dead man (Iberian needle, peas, chorizo, ham, peas, red pepper and homemade tomato sauce, four hours over low heat, with Fernando de Castilla fine wine), and the

tradition of all of inland Spain

with a Miguel dish, the cod (desalted just enough, without overdoing it) confit in garlic oil and its pilpil, with potatoes, black olives, asparagus and setitas shiitake.

We will have to return to taste their rice dishes

.

Good red wine pannacotta to finish and a

curious wine list

, somewhat weak in the Castilian-La Mancha area but with many other curiosities, including the very fine red wine of tempranillo and malvar, La Malición 2018, which the Catalan winemaker Marc Isart makes in Valdilecha ( Madrid), closer to Cuenca than to Bargas.

Ah!

And an intelligent and very kind feminine service.

More information about La Bodeguita del Arte

  • Menéndez Pelayo, 17

    • 91 504 43 56

  • Opening hours: Closed on Mondays

    • Official Website: https://labodeguitadelarte.es/

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