Within the ever-changing and too irregular Italian offer,

a couple of decades ago there was great news for Madrid fans of pizza

, such as the landing in the capital of the pizzaiolo Alberto Carta, who until that moment had practiced in the lake di Como and was preceded by his remarkable reputation, at least among those who frequented northern Italy.

At

Don Lisander

de Tetuán he met with his son Stefano, a chef living in Madrid, (and other partners) and more than confirmed all expectations.

Room.

The adventure in that restaurant lasted for a little over five years because, for reasons that are irrelevant, the Carta members decided to separate from their partners and become independent in a local chamberlain, on Calle Bretón de los Herreros.

This is how

Trattoria Manzoni was

born

(whose name pays tribute to the Milanese writer Alessandro Manzoni, author of what is considered the most important novel in the Italian language,

I promessi sposi

), which closed last January to

reappear a few weeks ago in the area of Chamartín

, in Rosario Pino.

Spaghetti alla chitarra del contadino.

And it does so in

a much larger and more spacious place

(perfect to keep distances in times of the damn pandemic), with a certain industrial aesthetic, where low tables and high rows of stools coexist and where

the undisputed star, today as yesterday , are the pizzas

that Alberto prepares. Very thin, oval, and with crunchy edges, in the Roman style, the secret is, as the old television commercial said, in the dough: a minimum of two days of fermentation so that they are light and very digestive. At the moment, they are prepared with a gas fire because, although the oven is mixed and has the possibility of being fed with firewood, the current legislation makes it impossible to smoke. In its menu, Carta offers a dozen options, with

the possibility of ordering two

fillings

on the same wafer

.

Among the traditional ones,

the very classic margherita is essential

.

Among the less traditional, the fresh bacon with quail eggs and wild asparagus.

Costoletta alla milanese.

But, as its name suggests,

Manzoni

is not just a pizzeria but a trattoria, which implies that it has

an offer that goes beyond pizzas

and that Stefano deals with. For example,

pasta such as paccheri al pomodoro with tomato sauce

. Or the spaghetti alla chitarra del contadino, with sirloin, beef demi-glace, semi-dried tomatoes, wild mushrooms and egg yolk. Or the green gnocchi cicche del nonno, made with potato and spinach and served with gorgonzola sauce and honey and grated summer truffle. Among the seconds, costoletta alla milanese or tagliata al tataki. And for dessert, although the ubiquitous tiramisù and pannacotta are not lacking, the ultracaloric Sicilian cannoli prevail.

In the winery, managed by Nacho Gil, Spanish and Italian wines coexist.

Among these, a curious Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Tuscany) from the Gucciardini Strozzi cantina, whose owner is said to be

a direct descendant of none other than the

Leonardian

Mona Lisa

.

What is said a white with a lot of glamor.

According to the criteria of The Trust Project

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