Readers will already know, because it is the theme of Madrid's gastronomic spring and our colleague (and nevertheless friend) Albert Solano has already presented it here: Asiako has been running for
less than a month
and has already made a
notable niche
within the panorama of our restaurants, occupying -it seems like yesterday the change of banner- the place that was Hortensio's before crossing the Castellana and, even before, a classic chamberilla tavern, Casa Ciríaco.
No tasca but many ambitions in this third establishment of
the Mr. Ito group
, which has already acquired a reputation in the capital with its
Japanese-Spanish fusion
.
But Asiako is not just another link in the chain, but rather
a step above it
, with
ambitions of quality
rather than size - it is a small place - and with one more twist in terms of originality: fusion of Japanese base with winks Hispanics, and also the presence of the Basque grill.
There is nothing.
Sergio Monterde, who was already the
executive
chef
of Mr. Ito and is one of the
most experienced
Spanish chefs
in Japanese cuisine
, has called his friend Raúl Romero to be with him at the head of the kitchen, who brings another experience fundamental: having worked in
Etxebarri
, the now legendary Bittor Arginzoniz steakhouse in Vizcaya.
Ambition translates into many things, but before trying a bite, the customer reads a menu in which there are
dishes of eels
, beluga caviar and fresh black truffle, or things like wagyu meat or the
Basque betizu breed
and Balfegó's bluefin tuna knows that here they go
hunting for suns, stars
and a position among the restaurants of the Madrid dome, somewhat decimated after the pandemic.
And that is expensive, of course.
Smoked artichokes with miso and truffle emulsion.
This first contact has revealed
complex, delicate
and generally very successful
dishes
.
The management of the grill appears from the first bite
: smoked artichokes with miso and truffle emulsion.
One of several Chinese nods: betizu oxtail dim sum, cured quail egg yolk,
cooked
demi-glace
and smoked idiazábal, is deep and comforting.
And there is a Mexican wink!
with grace, because it is not a taco but a talo -the Basque corn flatbread- passed through Jalisco, because it is made with nixtamalized blue corn (cooked in water and quicklime) and covered with grilled ear and crayfish, avocado, jalapeño pepper and sprouts.
A bomb.
There are a number of
quite original niguiris
.
The grilled eel with
foie
and cooking juice and the scallop with butter, soy and XO sauce are very tasty.
Such
complex combinations
contain a danger: that of exaggerating them.
Our minimal reproaches (apart from calling an almost liquid cream, rich on the other hand, "cheese cake") go there: an omelette inspired by the classic cider house, in the form of a soufflé with cod and spider crab, blurs these two ingredients
when mixing them
.
Better would be a cod omelette and a
separate
San Sebastian
crab
...
The wine list is very interesting, with those whites with lightness and acidity that go
well with Basque and Japanese
, like a good Austrian grüner veltliner, Knoll's Ried Trump Federspiel 2018.
More information about Asiako
Marqués de Riscal, 5
-
91 421 30 77
Opening hours: Closed on Sundays and holidays
-
Official Website: https://srito.es/asiako/
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