It is not the usual thing, but we must start this chronicle with a

warning and advice

: if you can,

come to the

Torrijos

market

between today and this Sunday at noon

to get to know the cuisine -one of the most interesting of the young Madrid culinary school- of

Álex Marugán

, because on Monday they will have closed and started

their transfer to their new premises

on Calle de Montesa, where they will not open until March 1.

They can wait, of course, and from here we will remember

the reopening

, but we do not have them all with us in the midst of this

pandemic

That does not stop: What if Álex and his clients find themselves in March with the bad news of a severe confinement?

Hopefully not.

But you know what year we've been here, and

bird in hand is better

...

Of course, the cuisine and the very personal wine list are the only reason for rushing to what

was a classic market

in the Salamanca district: today sold to private interests, it seems more like a real estate operation than a relaunch, as happened in Vallehermoso or Chamberí.

It is sad to see

so many stalls

already

closed

through the large windows of Tres por Cuatro, with their tables

perfectly separated

according to current protocols.

But by looking at the plate one quickly consoles one, as our friend Vicente Azpitarte discovered, who has not lost his appetite since he was in high politics.

Marugán, a restless 27-year-old from Madrid, is in love with our

traditional cuisine

but has managed to accumulate a solid

Mexican and Peruvian

experience

that allows him all kinds of ingenious fusions.

Traditionalism, XXI century.

The chef Álex Marugán.

In the winter menu -changes every quarter- and also outside we find a genuine roller coaster (portions and many half portions) of

intensities and delicacies

: a powerful start with magnificent "

crunchy and honeyed"

torreznos

, which -outside and inside- They are exactly like that, very well refreshed with some chickweed (or corujas, as you prefer).

A

delicate fusion

follows

: a taco, not of cochinita, but of

ossobuco pibil

of very tender veal, with the classic taste of achiote.

And another refined fusion: a

paquito

(they explain to us that it is like a pepito but with more tender bread, brioche) of Moorish lacquered lamb meatballs.

Very

world cuisine

, they say?

Well, we jump to a thick fillet of ultra-fresh skewer hake, the kind that really taste, advertised "in green sauce" that actually has more ingredients and colors, carabineros meat for example.

A

flawless update

on a classic.

And the last main course is pure traditionalism: Álex's tripe, with leg and nose, and without fuss in the use of chilli.

Tremendous ending

.

Well, end of all, no.

Some

classic

but updated

desserts

soften our mouths: an autumn cheesecake, one of those powerful, not buttery ones, and an unprecedented

panna cotta

with slices of black truffle and olive oil.

We tend to look for a single wine that can accompany such different dishes, and here are several, including the essential champagnes.

But we went for

a

2016

Cadiz tintilla

from Forlong: hake or tripe, everything went well with him.

And how are the prices!

More information about Three by Four

  • Hermosilla, 82

    • 687 26 84 32

  • Opening hours: Closed Sunday evenings and Monday

    • Official Website: http://tresporcuatromadrid.com/

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