It is not the usual thing, but we must start this chronicle with a
warning and advice
: if you can,
come to the
Torrijos
market
between today and this Sunday at noon
to get to know the cuisine -one of the most interesting of the young Madrid culinary school- of
Álex Marugán
, because on Monday they will have closed and started
their transfer to their new premises
on Calle de Montesa, where they will not open until March 1.
They can wait, of course, and from here we will remember
the reopening
, but we do not have them all with us in the midst of this
pandemic
That does not stop: What if Álex and his clients find themselves in March with the bad news of a severe confinement?
Hopefully not.
But you know what year we've been here, and
bird in hand is better
...
Of course, the cuisine and the very personal wine list are the only reason for rushing to what
was a classic market
in the Salamanca district: today sold to private interests, it seems more like a real estate operation than a relaunch, as happened in Vallehermoso or Chamberí.
It is sad to see
so many stalls
already
closed
through the large windows of Tres por Cuatro, with their tables
perfectly separated
according to current protocols.
But by looking at the plate one quickly consoles one, as our friend Vicente Azpitarte discovered, who has not lost his appetite since he was in high politics.
Marugán, a restless 27-year-old from Madrid, is in love with our
traditional cuisine
but has managed to accumulate a solid
Mexican and Peruvian
experience
that allows him all kinds of ingenious fusions.
Traditionalism, XXI century.
The chef Álex Marugán.
In the winter menu -changes every quarter- and also outside we find a genuine roller coaster (portions and many half portions) of
intensities and delicacies
: a powerful start with magnificent "
crunchy and honeyed"
torreznos
, which -outside and inside- They are exactly like that, very well refreshed with some chickweed (or corujas, as you prefer).
A
delicate fusion
follows
: a taco, not of cochinita, but of
ossobuco pibil
of very tender veal, with the classic taste of achiote.
And another refined fusion: a
paquito
(they explain to us that it is like a pepito but with more tender bread, brioche) of Moorish lacquered lamb meatballs.
Very
world cuisine
, they say?
Well, we jump to a thick fillet of ultra-fresh skewer hake, the kind that really taste, advertised "in green sauce" that actually has more ingredients and colors, carabineros meat for example.
A
flawless update
on a classic.
And the last main course is pure traditionalism: Álex's tripe, with leg and nose, and without fuss in the use of chilli.
Tremendous ending
.
Well, end of all, no.
Some
classic
but updated
desserts
soften our mouths: an autumn cheesecake, one of those powerful, not buttery ones, and an unprecedented
panna cotta
with slices of black truffle and olive oil.
We tend to look for a single wine that can accompany such different dishes, and here are several, including the essential champagnes.
But we went for
a
2016
Cadiz tintilla
from Forlong: hake or tripe, everything went well with him.
And how are the prices!
More information about Three by Four
Hermosilla, 82
-
687 26 84 32
Opening hours: Closed Sunday evenings and Monday
-
Official Website: http://tresporcuatromadrid.com/
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