NEWS..To the great temples of the capital there are four restaurants as classic as modern.
The food houses are
one of the main treasures of Madrid gastronomy
, from the centennial ones like
Casa Alberto
or
Casa Ciriaco
to the new ones, such as
La Catapa
,
Barrera
,
El Fogón de Trifón
or
Quinqué
, passing through those temples consecrated to wine which are
Angelita
,
Asturianos
,
El Quinto Vino
or
Matritum
.
Cozy, homemade and oblivious to the fashions and trends of each moment, with their comforting spoon dishes and their lifelong recipes, they are
little oases of lifelong happiness
(what would become normality)
among the capital traffic
.
And more so now, with the increasingly unbearable situation that we live.
That is why it is not surprising that there are four food houses, three newcomers to this square and one that has confirmed the alternative in a big way, the places that are being talked about the most among capital gourmets in recent months.
Orellana House.
In the Salesas neighborhood, the Sevillian Guillermo Salazar is in charge of the
Casa Orellana
stoves
(Orellana, 6. Tlf .; 915 024 182).
To his Andalusian roots he adds a Bilbao grandmother and stays in Basque restaurants such as
Akelarre
or
Arzak
, in addition to nine years practicing in New York.
All this can be seen in a menu that looks like stellar proposals: the
Russian salad with spider crab
, the oxtail croquettes, the cracked eggs with red prawns, the tuna with spicy tomato, the Iberian pork cheeks on the stick or the torrija with ice cream. of nougat.
And, importantly, it has
uninterrupted hours
, which allows you to
stop
by its high tables at any time and enjoy one of its very personal gildas (with anchovies in addition to anchovies) and its interesting offer of wines by the glass.
Red mullet battered and fried with saffron mayonnaise from 'Sagrario Traálisis'.
Tabernacle Tradition
(Plaza de Valparaíso, 3. Tlf .: 91 457 91 39) is a project by Nicolás Marcos, from the world of wine, both in his hometown and in Asturias, where he was the architect of the Dominio del Urogallo winery. .
The quite modern interior design dining room somewhat contradicts the name of the restaurant, but the same is not the case with what reaches the table,
from impressive torreznos to a monumental rock mullet in batter and fried
, accompanied with saffron mayonnaise, which is served served whole and boneless.
Also, grilled quail with shepherd's crumbs;
Madrid-style tripe, a Madrid-style version of the rabbit, wild turbot and spoon stews that change every day.
For dessert, a curious flan with cream of amontillado.
Peculiar wine list
, with a predominance of natural ones ... although there are also 'normal' ones.
Tabernacle Tradition.
In the heart of the city, one step away from the Congress of Deputies, veteran chef Pedro Gallego has set up, together with his partner Carmen Pereda,
Casa Mortero
(Zorrilla, 9. Tlf .: 910 595 570).
Its specialty is stews and grilled meat and, as you can read on its website, as a declaration of intentions, it is
a restaurant to "mash, cook, scrape"
.
Creamy croquettes, torreznos with 'meneás' potatoes and paprika mash, Madrid-style tripe with jerky, important potatoes with
cod
kokotxas
, fried egg and cured jowls, pochas stewed with red shrimp and seasonal mushrooms, Joselito Iberian Moorish skewers with kale and red mojo ... As they say, for bread and dipping.
Picones de María.
Finally, although it has been open since 2018, it was not until the second half of 2020 that
Picones de María
(Simancas, 12. Tlf .: 914 599 909)
has become the great open secret among Madrid fans
.
In fact, getting a seat between now and spring is practically impossible ... and not only because it barely has half a dozen tables.
The person responsible for this success is the chef Jorge Muñoz, who did an internship in
Mugaritz
and then went through
Atrio
and
La Tasquita de Enfrente
, where he perfected that extensive knowledge of the raw material that he transfers to his dishes here, together with a remarkable technique.
Jerky croquettes;
Russian salad;
Asadillo manchego or tripe, leg and nose are some of the proposals on the menu, but the best thing is to opt for dishes outside of it to understand the reason for so much expectation.
According to the criteria of The Trust Project
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