Three independent spaces, with capacity for a maximum of six people each - what the law allows now - a decadent and magical aesthetic, almost 500 square meters of space and the Japanese chef Yoko Hasei.
These brushstrokes show the essence of Leclab, the new and exclusive Japanese restaurant that shares a building - and project - with the Allard Club in the stately Casa Gallardo.
With a fragile appearance and a shy smile, Yoko (47) is the axis of the project.
She and the kaiseki cuisine, hardly known in our country and where women are still a minority.
"In my country, this is still a very macho world. Women are not even allowed to enter," she says sitting in one of Leclab's spectacular rooms.
Dressed in a Japanese kimono, she describes her latest adventure in perfect Spanish: "
I want the service and the overall experience to have a Japanese aesthetic
."
One of the private rooms for lunch or dinner.
Kaiseki cuisine is "
a celebration, where seasonal and fresh products prevail
".
In the past, he says, the term defined a vegetarian cuisine that accompanied the tea ceremony;
Over time it evolved and today it is served at lunch and dinner and includes vegetables, fish and, in some cases, meat, all accompanied with sake - she is a sommelier of this drink.
"
Every three months I will change the menu
. I try to adapt it to the local palate as well; I try not to put too much raw fish," he explains.
A self-taught cook, before dedicating herself to gastronomy she
worked with Christian Lacroix in Paris
.
She came to Spain attracted by the art of making bullfighting costumes and the language and has been here for 10 years.
It has been tanned in a number of restaurants.
The last ones, the private women's club Alma and the Izariya restaurant, where she spent three years and was head of the room.
"At this last stage I already thought I had to do something different."
And then this project was proposed to him.
Scallop with batashouyu.
"Kaiseki cooking is very labor intensive and time consuming.
Water is essential,
" she enthuses.
The one in Madrid does not go well with Japanese cuisine.
"It's too hard, you need softer. I have to use Bezoya or Fuensanta mineral water to make the dishes."
He speaks with enthusiasm, trying not to forget anything that surrounds his kitchen, still unknown to many.
"Number five is important."
It represents "perfection", but not only.
"In a kaiseki menu there must be five colors (red, yellow, green, black and white); five flavors (salty, sweet, sour, spicy and acid; and five preparations (raw, cooked, grilled, fried and steamed) ".
Temari sushi accompanied by miso soup.
Prepare two tasting menus: Maiko (120 euros) and Geisha (150).
The sunomono with tosazu gulee (seaweed salad with Japanese cucumber, okura and Denia red shrimp), the scallop with batashouyu, the tuna kawari tartare and seasonal vegetable tempura, the cigalas tails with Onioroshi sauce, the red mullet on Turnip daikon and edamame and temari sushi accompanied by miso soup are served in both.
The second, longer, has two more dishes: chawan mushi with Japanese clam and wagyu meat.
The dessert, in both options, is a cake made of rice flour and matcha tea.
Each of the spaces retains a different style
.
The parquet has been preserved as it was found on the floor and its creaking when walking gives a touch of mystery to the place.
The tapestries -some rescued at auctions- and the wallpapers on the walls -one of them shows Paris of the 1930s- that have been recovered give the place a historical air full of charm.
"The idea is to create a private club within another private club," they explain from space, who are already raffling it for fashion productions and advertisements.
It is undoubtedly one of the most unique openings of this complicated 2020.
Leclab offers two tasting menus.
Yoko is aware of everything.
He goes out to chat with the diners, to explain his dishes and he likes to hear their impressions.
"Since I was a child my parents took me to eat at restaurants almost every day."
Thus he began to learn the trade.
Leclab
.
Ferraz, 2. Madrid Telephone: 673 838 980.
Kawari tuna tartare.
According to the criteria of The Trust Project
Know more
Madrid
The founder of Alfredo's Barbacoa dies, the American who taught us to love hamburgers
Opinion Alfred Gradus (Alfredo's Barbecue), a pioneer who changed our tastes
Gastronomy'Nado ', the big return to Madrid of chef Iván Domínguez
See links of interest
News
Translator
Programming
Films
2021 calendar
2020 calendar
Topics
Coronavirus
Christmas Lottery
Poblense - Olot
Coruxo - Malaga
Loyalty - Alcorcón
Burgos CF - FC Andorra
Barcelona - Real Sociedad