The most extreme offal dish in Madrid

Gastronomy

The 'zuppa forte' of the Italian restaurant 'Da Giuseppina', a wild and ancestral dish not suitable for delicate palates

Like every year at this time, Ignazio Deias, owner of the restaurant

(Trafalgar, 17. Phone: 914 458 539), one of the three best Italians in Madrid,

incidentally,

invited me to try the white truffle you just received from Alba.

And, of course, there I went, ideally accompanied by my friend and teacher Fernando Point.

Before moving on to the mushroom, he introduced us to some of the restaurant's new dishes.

First of all, a comforting stew of cuttlefish and peas of Sardinian origin, in which the seafood and vegetables harmonized perfectly.

Next, a shepherd's stew, even more comforting if possible, consisting of cicerchie with sausage and guanciale.

Cicerchia is nothing other than that almorta whose flour is used in La Mancha to make porridge, another shepherd's dish.

Tajarin with white tartufo.

It is the turn of the white truffle, a product that, due to its delicacy and its special peculiarities, is of a very high aromatic intensity and rather short, admits few companies (pasta, rice, butter, egg, cheese and little else) and it cannot be cooked over a fire.

At

is served with some very fine fresh egg tajarines and a bit of butter.The truffle, of exceptional quality, fills the atmosphere with its notes of gas and garlic and perfectly deceives the palate, which inevitably moves to the Piedmont forests from Las Langas.

After the truffle, the big revelation of the day.

At the beginning of lunch, our host had asked us if we liked the offal and, in response to our resounding affirmative answer, he promised us a surprise.

That surprise was a zuppa forte, a rural and survival dish typical of the humble people of southern Italy, telluric and ancestral, consisting of a honeyed stew with lungs, hearts, tracheas and livers, both beef and pork, well seasoned with ' nduja, that spicy sobrasada prepared with black pork typical of Calabria (although the traditional recipe uses chillies, the 'nduja improves it).

The extremely intense and wild flavor of the ingredients, together with the power of the spiciness, make this zuppa forte the most extreme offal dish I have ever tasted and a challenge that all lovers of intricacies should not fail to consider.

By the way, this is a dish that is not on the menu (lest some picky eaters make a mistake and ask for it) but it can be ordered without any problem.

Pea and cuttlefish stew.

One last note: the

winery

is very remarkable and it contains high-level Italian wines at more than reasonable prices.

To accompany the zuppa forte, do not hesitate to opt for a primitive from Salento or an amarone from Veneto, one of the few capable of measuring face to face with something so extreme.

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