Lobito de Mar

14

• Kitchen

  Remarkable

• Service

  Remarkable

• Cellar

  Remarkable

• Decoration / atmosphere

  Outstanding

• Madrid
• Average price: 70 to 90 euros
• Andalusian cuisine

Our critic visits the last project of the chef from Malaga, a seafood format that has triumphed for a couple of years in Marbella

Memories of Joël Robuchon : the great French "chef" announced in 1995 that he was retiring when he turned 50 - on which occasion we could interview him for THE WORLD in his triestrellado Parisian restaurant - but to retire, nothing. From then on he dedicated himself to developing his world gastronomic empire: he had only retired from the bondage of the kitchen . Dani García, on the other hand, did not announce withdrawal, but closing and reconversion of his Marbella restaurant upon receiving his third Michelin star and, since then, he has been starring in a full-fledged Robuchonian operation. He first launched his line of BiBo restaurants, which are informal as well as modern, and now a second line, Lobito de Mar, more ambitious . Both are already in Madrid.

From BiBo we expected a little more culinary innovation, but in its splendid location of the Castellana this cheerful brasserie has worked well. Now we have approached this Lobito de Mar that, even if only by landing in the golden mile of Jorge Juan, already demonstrates his ambition undoubtedly greater. As the price ...

The place, with two floors - joined, by the way, by an elevator, which customers with fragile knees will appreciate - is spectacular with its modern, colorful and cheerful frame . Impeccable by that part. The culinary offer is infrequent in this city: an authentic deluge of fish and shellfish, including sausages, which are all marine. Only on the payroll of rice - which we have not yet tried - there are a couple of them with meat.

If BiBo fell a little short, we think that Lobito de Mar is somewhat irregular . Perfect songs alternate with others who lack some genius and surprise . As its implementation is still very recent, we hope that little by little all will rise to the same level.

So we had a little roller coaster the other day. The appetizer of carrot cream with smoked sardine with which they welcome is succulent, but as we had already asked for an entree with smoked sardine, they could have varied it: it, with ajoblanco sauce and grapes, was equally rich. Between the two, a thin natural Malaga shell that is pure product, of course, but that in Madrid is not as usual and is appreciated .

Another entree, a huge portion of battered and fried eggplant strips, without the least accompaniment (some of the classic cane honey would have come in handy), is somewhat bland and not well understood.

Among the main ones, the tuna tarantelo too much - a pity - and rich, and especially spectacular, the fried monkfish from Marbella : they present the skeleton of the whole fish, and inside the taquitos of their firm meat. We finished with good fresh cheese cake and rather bland Malaga mango with yogurt. We already say: irregularity ...

Two more notes: excellent bread and interesting wine list. It is a privilege to enjoy sea cuisine with a Miraflores UBE from Palomino grapes, from Cota 45, the cellar of our friend Ramiro Ibáñez in Sanlúcar.

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