Of French origin, the suflé survives as a classic recipe while contemporary chefs recover it in modern proposals. and not only in sweet code
- Marta Fernández Guadaño
Just at the end of a tribute, built in a succession of precise grilled elaborations, comes a chocolate sufflé . This is one of the few exceptions in the smoked cuisine of Etxebarri and, at the same time, a sweet emblem of the grill of Bittor Arginzoniz in Atxondo (Vizcaya). Dispatched a la carte or as a second dessert from the tasting menu, it lands on the direct table of the pastry party and still dressed with the ring-shaped mold around this ration sufflé. Its embossed interior is covered by an external flux of a light cream that, in its upper part, has suffered . "You have to previously pass the sprig around the mold and then quickly unmold it on the table," they explain in Etxebarri, where - they maintain - none of their guests stop trying it.
Classic dessert where there are them, not only survives in the menu of many establishments, but in recent times it has reinforced its prominence and has even resurfaced in various formats and versions , giving rise to salty proposals.
In any case, the key to this technique that usually instills respect for many chefs is identical (or similar): beaten eggs - almost always - and clear to the point of snow that are part of a mass that is usually creamy and that, subject to oven, rise and air, so that it suffers and ends up crowning a more or less fluxing recipe.
PAST AND PRESENT
On the origin of the suflé (Castilianized) or soufflé (in French, blown, blown or inflated) several theories are handled and even doubts that Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin collected in The physiology of taste . It seems that it emerged in France at the end of the 18th or early 19th centuries and that great chefs like Antoine Câreme or Auguste Escoffier signed their own recipes for this dessert. There are hypotheses that argue that we are facing an evolution of bechamel , by incorporating yolks and whipped whites.
One of the best known elaborations of Spanish gastronomy is the classic Suflé Solla . Although the offer of this haute cuisine space of San Salvador de Poio (Pontevedra) does not specifically include it in its current offer -based on tasting menu-, until about five years ago it was the only historical dish of the house that was kept in the letter . However, it is currently considered as an option. " Sometimes, when the client asks us, we can do it without problem," says Pepe Solla , second generation of a business founded in 1961 by José González Solla (recently deceased) and Amelia González. It was his mother who created it at the end of the 70s. «It arose after one of my parents' trips to France, where they went by car to meet dining rooms and see dishes that later , upon returning home, versioned under their intuition . In many cases, they became emblematic recipes in our house, ”recalls Pepe Solla.
According to his account, his mother's "was born of technical ignorance. He did it his way, mixing it with an Alaska omelette [ice cream coated with baked meringue, hot on the outside and cold on the inside]. There was no rigorous sufflé, but a very modern proposal for the time that, over the years, became an icon of Solla. My mother defends that her recipe is much better than the original one , ”emphasizes the chef, who dispatches it at La Radio Pepe Solla , his newly released -in December- casual space in Santiago de Compostela. "We wanted to get it back there," he says.
Of flavors
In any case, the new blows coexist with those that have remained in letters of the more or less recent Spanish culinary history. For example, Diego Guerrero offers it in Dspeakeasy , an establishment inaugurated in August - very close to its Madrid matrix, DSTAgE -, where Suflé, vanilla and rum are served . "He had not done it for 20 years and wanted to return to work," admits the Basque chef, who burns the top of the dessert with a blowtorch .
Variations are also proposed depending on the predominant flavor. In this way, Alberto Ruiz-Gallardón Utrera pays tribute to classicism with an orange one , in Auga e Sal (Santiago de Compostela), whose letter indicates that it takes 14 minutes to reach the table. One more minute of waiting they warn in Saddle , a luxury restaurant opened in Madrid last fall in the old place of the mythical Jockey. As head chef, Adolfo Santos prepares one of chocolate - of the Manjari variety, with 64% cocoa - and hazelnuts that he presents in a copper saucepan . It takes the same time for bitter chocolate with English cream made in Lafayette , brasserie de Madrid.
Pistachio and ice cream is also signed in the capital Iván Cerdeño, in El Pabellón , in Florida Retiro, and chocolate with vanilla ice cream and cocoa pearls is offered at Emebe Garrote , the modern cider house of Martín Berasategui in San Sebastián. As a haute cuisine version, Mario Sandoval included in the spring 2019 menu of Coque el de vanilla y yuzu, chocolate fresini and berries . From hazelnut, Juanlu Fernández has prepared it in Lú Cocina y Alma (Jerez de la Frontera, Cádiz), from where he launches a tip: « The key is the wrist movement, because it is what allows the clear mounted inside the base to be introduced. That is the moment in which it must be mixed very carefully so that the white is not lowered , if not, then do not suffer. It must move slowly, wrapping slowly so that the white is alveolated inside the dough and, thus, when it goes into the oven, go up », recommends the chef.
For his part, Paco Pérez has included one of chocolate in Al Lado, his newest project released in November at Eme Catedral Mercer Hotel (Seville) . It is a sweet symbol that serves in other houses such as L'Egss (Barcelona), Tast (Manchester) or Thirty-Three , its new space in Poland. «It is a dish that you like and that works well in winter. Delicate, suggestive, a bit historic, friendly and popular , it allows you to play with it. We make it from chocolate, hazelnut and other types, ”explains the Catalan chef.
In passing, Pérez clarifies one of the confusions that usually originate around the recipe: when it is served in unit weight, it is sometimes called a sufflé to what, in reality, is a coulant . «This one was designed by Michel Bras in 1981 and it is a cake that has a coulant sphere inside; while a sufflé is a base, a homogeneous dough made with mounted egg whites, butter and flour - it can also be almond - to which a cooking point is given, so that the cake is not just made, playing With degrees of temperature and time. They are two completely different techniques, ”says Pérez. And it completes with another characteristic of the sufflé: «this one rises and is aerated by the action of the clear beats».
This inflated dish assumes distinctions such as the Alaska sufflé or the Alaska omelette , an ice cream topped by roasted meringue (apparently, it is a recipe created in 1867 at Delmonico's, in New York , to celebrate the purchase of Alaska by the United States ). In addition, to serve Pepe Solla's mother on her day of inspiration, we can still find them in classic directions. «Ice cream with baked gratin meringue top». This is how Lhardy (Madrid) presents his famous Suflé surprise , which must be requested at the start of the meal and is later charged by ration. In a similar and meringue line with vanilla ice cream, it is served in Mesón de Alberto , a good traditional Lugo restaurant, and as a surprise Tortilla , in Batiste , in the Santa Pola Yacht Club (Alicante). Al Grand Marnier is another canonical version that today survives in Via Veneto (Barcelona) and in L'Albufera , arroceria in Meliá Castilla (Madrid), where it is presented served in the traditional style with this liquor in its recipe.
Salty counterparts
As we have pointed out, the technique of baking a dough with whites about to snow is used even in salty cooking, for example, the suffix of crayfish tails with shrimp sauce, from Duque (Segovia). In a tribute to Juan Mari Arzak convened in 2018 by Dani García in Marbella, Quique Dacosta signed one of txangurro , defined then as “a complex dish, which attracted us precisely that difficulty component, and to which we wanted to give it a point novel, although being faithful from the taste point to the creation of Juan Mari, with an authentic technical filigree , ”said the chef.
Nor should we forget the rice recipes that once resorted to suffering, such as rice in crust , typical of Elche and with a probable age of about 500 years, which is based on coating with beaten egg (yolk included) the medium cereal made for cause an oven effect with a ribbed, with the result of a sufflé. In this town of Alicante, the brothers José Vicente and Salva Castaño have at home and for events , which chefs like Susi Díaz or Quique Dacosta use, have great fame .
The "I suffered SOLLA"
Eggs, sugar and vanilla ice cream make up this elaboration of simple appearance and obligatory precision to find its right point. Available at La Radio Pepe Solla (Santiago de Compostela) and, whenever the client asks for it, at Solla, the Pontevedra mother house, this is the recipe of Suflé Solla , an icon of Spanish sweet cuisine, if you dare to Do it at home .
Ingredients (for four people): eight eggs, four servings of vanilla ice cream, 350 g of sugar, a splash of orange liqueur and another of rum.
Preparation : clear the eight eggs (separate egg whites). Beat the yolks with a splash of orange liquor and 100 g of sugar until the yolks are assembled to obtain a homogeneous dough similar to that of a sponge cake. Mount the egg whites and add the rest of the sugar to obtain a consistent meringue . In a baking dish, the assembled yolks are first placed and baked for three to five minutes at 250 degrees until a light golden crust on the surface is achieved. Then, the ice cream covered by the meringue is placed on top; Bake again at maximum power until golden brown (about two minutes). The suflé is removed from the oven and it ends up flambéing it with a trickle of white tempered rum.
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