DiverXO

twenty

• Kitchen

  Outstanding

• Service

  Outstanding

• Cellar

  Outstanding

• Decoration / atmosphere

  Outstanding

• Madrid
• Average price: from 300 to 400 euros
• Author's kitchen

Our critic witnesses the great moment that Dabiz Muñoz is going through, who has turned his Madrid restaurant into one of the largest in the world

There are admirations, in gastronomy, that are born on the first day and are never betrayed . But they are few. The great French critics Henri Gault and Christian Millau said they didn't know any restaurant, no matter how big it was, in which they had never eaten badly. Well, today we are going with one of those rare cases that started up and has only taken flight .

In May 2007, a boy with piercings appeared for the first time , from his small and very modest dining room in a small street in Tetuán, to the pages of a publication . This same one they are reading . His light aerial kitchen, with unexpected Chinese techniques, discolored us and excited us . And he won his first qualification: «Outstanding».

David (not yet Dabiz) Muñoz burned the stages with a blow of talent and work until he reached the three Michelin stars - unique in Madrid, and first from the historic Zalacain of Benjamin Urdiain - , his tables are reserved well in advance although do not accept those eternal deadlines of yesteryear, and we no longer have the opportunity to follow so often what you are doing and creating. It was time, and we can celebrate that yes, it is at its best and most focused moment, already touching perfection in everything . With enormous sacrifice because his life is almost reduced to work 16 hours and run those 10,000 meters that keep him in the form of an Atlético youth.

The external show has been reduced: the curtain around each pair of tables is permanent, does not fall in the middle of food, the time of the canvases passed and we return to the dishes - and eat enough with the hand - and continues, more subtle , the Asian vein of a Muñoz that has added to Japan the Japanese and Indian passions ("but for the Indians of London, without the ties of those of India") and more Mexican touches.

Impossible to summarize a tour of 30 dishes to which more subtle , which began with a delicious and delicate chicharrón of chicken to the cantonese and lemon to the 5 Chinese spices, skewer of tortiyaki , crests and croissant to the garlic, and from there straight up. Six of the stages are "to the beaches of Goa" and illustrate their new Indian passion, such as frog legs "as if it were butter chicken masala" with pickled mint, lentil pappadum and mango chutney.

In the dumplings , Dabiz's first love, the chest has arrived: a xiao longbao of black- legged pork soup with matured cow rib and marrow. And what about a tom kha of angles caressed to the wok with toasted butter of Cantonese XO sauce of dried scallops and yellow chihuacle peppers? That are not the classic angles, but open new frontiers. As the roasted and rested crayfish with its bordalesa, black garlic butter, kimchi, XO sauce and botarga: the Mediterranean joins the China Sea.

The amazing wine list of Miguel Ángel Millán completes the party of one of the largest restaurants in the world.

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