The little room

16

• Kitchen

  Outstanding

• Service

  Outstanding

• Cellar

  Remarkable

• Decoration / atmosphere

  Remarkable

• Valencia
• Average price: 60 euros
• Author's kitchen

The Arbor of Amos, new three star of the Michelin Guide

Rufus T. Firefly, a mediator and corrupt politician played by Groucho Marx in Goose Soup, said : "These are my ideas and, if you don't like them, I have others." The Valencian Begoña Rodrigo , who rose to national fame as a contestant (and winner) of the first edition of the reality show Top Chef , thinks exactly the opposite. Obstinate, vehement and impetuous, what is said as a character, Rodrigo has always been (and still is) firmly convinced of what he was doing and that, including some mistakes along the path that she herself recognizes, has taken her to the place that It occupies today, which is nothing less than one among the great chefs of the Valencian Community , one of the most gastronomically thriving regions of Spain.

It is his own, a very personal, brave and daring kitchen, even provocative, polyhedral, with the marine and vegetable worlds as great protagonists. Proof of this is the long menu, iconically called La Rodrigo , as if we were talking about a classic cinema diva. The starter cannot set the bar higher: onion braised with parmesan and pumpkin sobrasada and an immemorial classic of the house, which the chef has walked through Spain, the pickled and salted tiara with eggplants and cured egg yolk . Among the following five appetizers, the saloon sparkle with fried egg and eel and the pork toast with cod brandade and black olives. Intense flavors and contrasts that give way to a total masterpiece : smoked mackerel with flame eggplant and sardajo (an invention of the chef that combines ajoblanco and sardine) , an explosion of power to which the unusual generosity with spicy raises unimaginable dimensions.

Rodrigo's passion for the sea stars in the following sequence of dishes : sepia from the Valencian coast with seaweed collagen and its mash; textured oyster salad; a great vegetable stew with sea bottom (espardeñas, cockle, branch, salicornia and some unnecessary barnacles); red mullet, sauce of his livers and vegetables (enoki and tirabeque) and a monkfish with three weeks of maturation in nori and dutch rice that, surprisingly, is somewhat flat in flavor.

Splendid, and very Valencian, the false celery root risotto with all and pebre and eel and at the same height the vegetable noodles (bean, calbacin, mushroom, truffle and macadamia nut) with raw sheep and kimchi fighting cheese. The rabbit shoulder with mushrooms and thyme nasturtium and the garlic rabbit with green mustard put the finishing touch to the salty chapter.

The first dessert, celery, chocolates and carrots, more vegetable than sweet, has the ballast of that by-product that is white chocolate, while the second, pumpkin, orange, parmesan and butter, perfectly closes the circle by recovering the tiara with which the party started.

Another of the restaurant's musts is a young and very dynamic service headed by Sergio, Begoña's brother, and a remarkable winery (the sparkling and the generous are the wines that best marry such an intense cuisine) that handles the sommelier very easily Miguel Jimenez

According to the criteria of

Know more

Comments

This news has no comments yet

Be the first in give your opinion