Together with the wind fritters, the bones of Santo are the most typical sweets of All Saints Day
The best wind fritters in Madrid
All Saints' Day and the Day of the Dead Saints -which are two and not one despite what everyone may believe- the confectionery exhibitors are filled with infinite varieties of donuts ... But also, although it seems that more timidly, of Santo's sweet bones . These small circular-shaped turulos are nothing more than a marzipan dough that is rolled over a wood that is then removed to fill its interior with candied yolk cream. Later they bathe in sugar, so that its exterior is slightly crunchy while its interior offers a tender and juicy bite.
Marzipan, a fundamental element of these bones, is nothing more than a dough that is made from almond flour and sugar and whose origin is discussed because it is believed that it could be related to being a "March bread" or of be a "mace bread", referring to the grinding work required to make them, but it is known for sure that until the fifteenth century was used to coat certain bitter pharmacy pills and thus be able to medicate one more at ease and not It was until 1611 when Francisto Martínez Montiño cited them in his Kitchen Art locating them in Madrid.
How are Santo's bones made?
The manufacture of the Holy Bones is highly laborious since it requires skilled labor and enough patience to mix almond flour and icing sugar with egg white, which is what gives it moisture, and make a compact mass while tender. It must also be manageable to give shape to the rolls that will have a length of about four or five centimeters.
The classic, stuffed with candied yolk, reminds a little of those moon-shaped yolk delights that are dispatched in one of the most important marzipan centers in Spain, the confectionery Santo Tomé (Toledo) , and where people usually go on pilgrimage . Of course, these bones lack that subsequent cooking in the oven because they are practically raw.
The lifelong ones are stuffed with yolk are still the number one in sales at the confectioneries during these dates - and a little before and another shortly thereafter. If someone looks for really delicious pieces, they should go to well-known addresses, such as the Oven of San Onofre (Calle Hortaleza, 9 - and other addresses), Casa Mira (Carrera de San Jerónimo, 30), Pomme Sucre (Barquillo Street, 49) or Mallorca (Calle Velázquez, 59 - and others), all in Madrid. Also, do not forget Camilo de Blas (Oviedo), where the bones live with carbayones, or La Manchega Pastry (Ciudad Real).
Where to find the most daring fillings
In San Onofre, the bones of Santo coexist with fritters and panellets - very typical at this time especially in Catalonia and the Valencian Community - and are filled this season with egg yolk, coconut, tomato, chocolate, hazelnut, raspberry, chestnut, orange, sweet of milk and pistachio, pumpkin and sweet potatoes , always looking for new varieties. As in the rest of the establishments ... For example, Julio Blanco in Pomme Sucre presents this year the breasts of yolk, praline, strawberry, chocolate, lemon and coffee (45 euros per kilo).
The chocolate cover has entered with force in those that are made in Mallorca Bakeries: the truffle filling has a dark chocolate cover while the praline ones are covered with a white layer (but they are also served with yolk, sweet potato and of brown glacè, about 11 euros per 250 grams). More examples of various fillings can be found in Madrid Julietta's (Hermosilla, 58), which have bones filled with lemon, dulce de leche, raspberry, apricot, yolk and chocolate (31 euros per kilo). And in the classic and mythical pastry shop La Mallorquina (Puerta del Sol, 8), where this year strawberry, chocolate, sweet potato, coconut, praline and yolk (31 euros per kilo) are shipped. Also in the El Riojano confectionery (Mayor, 10) that have flavors such as praline, yolk, chestnut, coconut and sweet potato (44 euros per kilo) or in Ascaso (Zurbano, 25), cradle of Russian cake, where they have been inspired by Master Teodoro Bardají's classic recipe to give birth to Santo bones filled with yolk, truffle, praline and coconut (44 euros a kilo), not forgetting the well-known donuts.
It is clear that the reality is that the bones have been modernized to be able to find now with a long variety of the most scattered fillings, marzipan pastes of flavors and even with unusual coverings that give them new shades and tastes. The best? There everyone who chooses their own .
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