Don lay

fifteen

• Kitchen

  Remarkable

• Service

  Approved

• Cellar

  Remarkable

• Decoration / atmosphere

  Remarkable

• Madrid
• Average price: from 40 to 50 euros
• Chinese cuisine

Three decades ago these same pages of Metropolis were one of the first places where the name of Don Lay appeared , or to be more exact Asador Don Lay , which was what the teaching of the Extremadura promenade said after which the interior of what looked like a Castilian grill . Its owner, Francisco Ye - always correct and cramped - had not changed anything about the decoration or the furniture of the previous establishment when in that place he opened the first great Chinese restaurant in Madrid . He was succeeded by his daughter Nieves, who maintained the impeccable line of that peculiar place where, as soon as we knew the fans by radio macuto , the finest Cantonese cuisine of this city was served.

A very young David (or Dabiz, as he writes) Muñoz was one of his first and most enthusiastic clients: there he discovered the delicacy and depth that these steamed dumplings that we ended up as dumplings or dim sum could reach, and perhaps there he was born his vocation for oriental cooking techniques , which dominates as very few Europeans. And there were many of us who became devotees of that kitchen that until then we had not known - at least, in all its finesse - for these places.

Four years ago, Don Lay (who had at least removed the sign with the word Asador ) closed its doors for what was announced as a reform . But it seems that structural problems were more important than expected, and never reopened, to the duel of their unconditional. Later we would find out that Nieves had continued his activity in Carabanchel with a small workshop, Wanrun , which produces dumplings for shops and restaurants.

That is to say: we are left without a legend of exotic kitchens in Madrid . Like when Sudestada closed. Absences that seem irreparable. And that is why we rubbed our eyes a few weeks ago, between unbelievers and happy, when we saw a huge teaching that Don Lay said about that spectacular place of María de Molina , between Núñez de Balboa and Castelló, where several recent years have happened Little transcendent restaurants.

Well, there will be time to go tasting the happy reunion , but after a couple of visits we can already confirm that the kitchen of the smiling Nine Ye and her team continues as always, excellent, finally in a cheerful and modern framework worthy of it, and that when the service is focused and some detail (the background music ...) will rise even more. Everything is there: the dumplings (wonderful xiaolongbao stuffed with soup, or mushroom hakao), shrimp spring rolls; lacquered duck with broth from its shell, hoisin plum sauce and wafers; Breaded sea bass with sweet and sour sauce; Chicken kung pao picantito with its chilli peppers ...

It is worth mentioning a Spanish and foreign wine list superior to that of any Chinese in Madrid. And a warning: the very moderate prices described here are worth it if we resist the famous blue lobster with ginger (90 euros) , which will raise the final account 30-35 euros per person if they divide it between two.

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