Bardal

fifteen

• Kitchen

  Remarkable

• Service

  Remarkable

• Cellar

  Remarkable

• Decoration / atmosphere

  Remarkable

• Round
• Average price: tasting menus, 110 euros and 95 euros (pairings, 50 and 55 euros)
• Author's kitchen

The two tasting menus prepared by Benito Gómez demonstrate a personal and heterodox style, in which the intense flavors and the elaborate elaborations prevail

Elegant and powerful town of Ronda, full of history and monumentality, of art and culture . It was already an Independent Kingdom between 766 and 1015 and that should mark. Here the art of bullfighting was revolutionized and the rondeña school of bullfighting on foot was created. Here was born Giner de los Ríos, Spanish philosopher and essayist, a great inspirer of the Free Institution of Education and father of modern education. Here the oldest bullring in Spain was built ... And here the Tragabuches restaurant was born in 1998, an authentic school of Andalusian culinary modernity.

Tragabuches created style and, when he had to close its doors in 2014, Benito Gómez, intimately linked to it in his capacity as head chef for a long season, reopened it two years later, in the same place and almost with the same people ... He baptized him as Bardal , which is a bramble, a bush, and a year and shortly after its launch, he got again the Michelin star that once had the original Tragabuches . An intense and exciting test of emotional intelligence.

We could consider Benito Gómez as the creator of a supposed Free Culinary Institution. Catalan by birth and from Rondeño de arte, he is a culinary independent and free thinker, he does not support corsets, fashions, or fools. Formed in the prestigious School of Hospitality of San Pol de Mar, he worked with Jean Luc Figueras - great character and personality, suddenly disappeared in 2014 after a heart attack; with Manolo de la Osa - another indomitable and great chef - who definitely marked his culinary style so particular and heterodox. He is a great defender of intense flavors and blunt elaborations , with strength and power controlled and tamed by the wisdom of his ability to balance.

Fine in branch with egg yolk and mullet roe, a great restorative to start and continue with some tuna with cow fat. Who said fear? Fresh bitter almond - is an addict to this elegant flavor - with smoked sardine, novel version of nettle with green sauce tied with water of chirlas and chamomile of Sanlúcar. Algae, fish, pork, poultry, cows ... entrails, ridges, pots and vegetables ... A rich diversity in its two unique menus, both with desserts of great interest such as carob cake, typical of the Sierra de Málaga, With orange blossom and orange. Good winery with a large presence of wines from Rondeños - red and white - generous from both Malaga and the rest of Andalusia and Jerez whites of new cut.

Of milks, butters and butters

Benito does what he wants to do and cooks out of fashion . In its two menus of 2019 we find the succulents of the butters and butters that it handles with great mastery, and it is neither very usual nor much less easy. The presence of butter color on the freshness of an oyster is like a "lady in red on a gray background": a true work of art. Goat butter melts goat gizzards and herring roe in a delicate marriage. The leeks that accompany the caviar have been sauteed in butter ... Sheep's milk is also present in an excellent pigeon with wheat and mushrooms.

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