In the women's combined final of sports climbing held on the 6th, the new competition of the Tokyo Olympics, 24-year-old Miho Nonaka won the silver medal, and 32-year-old Akiyo Noguchi, who will retire from active duty at this Olympics, won the bronze medal and the Japanese women's double. All the ace were on the podium.
The reason for the achievement was that we continued to climb to the end in each "specialty event".
Nonaka was good at the first speed and the second bouldering, and had a strategy to escape in the first half.
However, in that bouldering, when the second of the three tasks was completed, he was in a difficult situation with 6th out of 8 people.
At this point, Nonaka said, "At the end, I feel. Let's do it without giving up." I raised the ranking to 3rd place and attracted the silver medal.
Noguchi was strong in bouldering and lead, and the ideal scenario was to rewind in the second half, but he did not improve to 4th place in bouldering and was 6th when he finished the second event.
Noguchi revealed that his heart was about to break, saying, "It was pretty tough. I thought the medal would be tough."
However, he persistently proceeded with each move, saying, "The last climb of the competitive life to show to everyone. Let's climb better without giving up than the result."
During the interview after the awards ceremony, there was a scene like Noguchi who always remembers his aspirations.
Noguchi:
"I've been trying to make the Olympics a retirement match for the last five years, so I'm rewarded."
"I'm not convinced of today's climb. I wonder if I'm really going to retire. I think about the improvement points and the fact that I should have practiced more with the lead. "
Nonaka has been chasing his back for many years and missed the retirement of his rival, an eight-year-old senior.
Nonaka players
"Keidai-chan to say feeling. Somehow that" really the end? ", The next will think or not it comes out also in the competition"
and been at the forefront of the climbing world in "much two people, the two people It makes a lot of sense to win the medal at. From now on, I want to take over Keiyo-chan's current position. "
While feeling the response that the two people were able to convey the appeal of sports climbing, I firmly received the baton from the leading expert.