Chinanews client, Beijing, July 12 (Bian Liqun) The opening of the Tokyo Olympics is getting closer and closer. Today's "Tokyo Gold" column focuses on rock climbing.

　　On August 3, Beijing time, the rock climbing event will be officially unveiled in the Olympic arena for the first time in history. At that time, the men’s all-around preliminaries will be held first, and the women’s all-around preliminaries will be held on the 4th Beijing time.

The men's and women's all-around finals will be held on the 5th and 6th Beijing time respectively.

　　In this brand new project, what is the combat power of the Chinese Army?

How will you compete in the competition then?

With these two questions, let us approach rock climbing.

Data map: domestic rock climbing competition.

Photo by Zhang Wei

　　As a new Olympic event, rock climbing has actually gradually emerged in Europe as early as the 18th century. It was not until the middle of the last century that it became an independent sport. Especially after the invention of artificial rock walls, this sport developed rapidly.

　　In 2016, the rock climbing event entered the Olympics and became the official event of the Tokyo Olympics. At that time, the men's and women's all-around competition will be competed and two gold medals will be determined.

There are 3 sub-items in the all-round competition, namely: speed, bouldering and difficult rock climbing.

　　In terms of the content of the competition, the speed competition consists of two athletes competing against each other for climbing speed on a 15-meter-high wall according to a designated route.

Bouldering is the athlete climbing on a 4-meter-high wall with multiple fixed routes within a specified time.

In the difficulty competition, the athletes compete for climbing height on a wall above 15 meters in the specified time.

　　The final three rankings are multiplied and combined to calculate the total score. The lowest number will win the gold medal.

This method of calculation requires particularly high levels of players’ stable performance, and in particular requires players to have comprehensive abilities and no shortcomings.

Data map: Rock climbing national training team members in the game.

Photo by China News Agency reporter Zhang Wei

　　At the Tokyo Olympics, one male and female Chinese rock climbing team will be shortlisted, Pan Yufei and Song Yiling, both of whom are "post-00" players.

　　After the rock climbing project entered the Olympics, the Chinese rock climbing team started to prepare for the competition in 2017. Pan Yufei and Song Yiling stood out from the domestic rock climbers, and their results have been steadily improving.

　　In the Tokyo Olympic Rock Climbing Qualifying Tournament held in November 2019, Pan Yufei qualified for the Tokyo Olympics with 7th in the speed race, 1st in the rock climbing race, 7th in the difficulty race, and 2nd in the preliminaries total points.

　　In the year when the Tokyo Olympics were postponed due to the epidemic, Pan Yufei made up for shortcomings and developed his advantages.

　　Zhao Lei, the deputy leader of the Chinese climbing team, said in an interview with the media that Pan Yufei's progress over the past year can be described as "reborn" and has been able to gradually enter the first group.

Data map: Rock climbers in the competition.

Photo by China News Agency reporter Qu Honglun

　　Song Yiling in the women's event is also competitive. In the 2019 International Climbing World Cup Rock Climbing Competition in Chongqing, she set a new world record for women's speed climbing in 7.101 seconds.

In the Moscow station before that, Song Yiling also won the championship.

　　However, in the Tokyo Olympic Rock Climbing Qualifying Tournament, the young Song Yiling was affected by tension and did not perform well enough, ranking only ninth, thrilling and lucky to get Olympic tickets.

　　In the Tokyo Olympics, the two "post-00s" will face strong climbers from all over the world. The famous Czech player Ondra in the men's group is 27 years old and has won 5 world championships. He is undoubtedly the favorite to win the golden age.

In the women's group, Slovenian star Garnblatt has won 6 championships and is a favorite to win the championship.

　　Of course, rock climbing, as a brand new Olympic event, has extremely high requirements for on-the-spot performance, stabilizes its mentality, and exerts its own level. Perhaps the two "post-00s" teenagers will harvest surprises.

Rock climbing in China, come on!

(Finish)