The Japan Cup, which decides the best combination of sports climbing in Japan, was held in Morioka City, and Akiyo Noguchi, a girl who participated in the final actual battle in Japan, and Tomoa Narasaki, a boy, won the championship as an adjustment to the Tokyo Olympics.
This tournament was held in Morioka City from the 18th for two days, and female Noguchi, Miho Nonaka, and male Narasaki, who have been appointed as Olympic representatives, participated as adjustments to the Olympics.
This year's Japan Cup will be held in a combination of two types of bouldering and lead in time for the Paris Olympics three years later, and in the final, female Noguchi will have two of the three courses called challenges in bouldering. After climbing to 1st place, only one lead competing for the climbed height approached the goal and won the top of both events.
Nonaka was second in both bouldering and lead, and was second in overall results.
In the men's race, Narasaki won the championship by climbing two of the three tasks in bouldering to take first place, and in the lead, three people lined up to take first place.
In addition, the three of them also attended a speed record meeting before the Japan Cup, assuming the third event compound to be held at the Tokyo Olympics, and confirmed the same flow as the Olympics.
The four Olympic athletes, including Kai Harada, who missed this tournament, will participate in the World Cup to be held in Austria from the 23rd of this month, and will face the final tournament before the Olympics.
Noguchi "I want to give momentum to the Olympics"
Noguchi, who won the Japan Cup for the first time in three tournaments, said, "I couldn't concentrate on all the tournaments so far, but this time I was able to really concentrate and try my own. Reed I want to give momentum to the Olympics by advancing to the finals in each World Cup, "he said with a smile.
For Noguchi, a 32-year-old who will retire from active duty at the Tokyo Olympics, this tournament was also the last domestic tournament.
Noguchi said, "I was very lonely yesterday night, but I thought I'd have a good day and enjoy climbing." I gained confidence. I still want to do my best. "
Nonaka "I want to run through to the Olympics"
Miho Nonaka recalled, "I'm disappointed that the result would have been different if I had completed all the climbs in bouldering, but I'm glad that Reed worked harder than I had imagined."
For the Olympics, which is approaching a month or so, "There are still many points that can be improved in a month or so, and I am confident that I can improve them, and I am feeling better than I was in the past. I want to run through to the Olympics. I'm just looking forward to it. "
"I'm looking forward to it, but I'm a little nervous" for the Narasaki Olympics
"Because it is the last tournament that can be passed through the third event, I want to do my best to show the best performance."
Tomoa Narasaki emphasized the importance of this tournament after qualifying.
We confirmed the same flow of the 3rd event as the Tokyo Olympics in the actual battle format, and achieved the victory of the word execution as a 2nd event combination tournament of bouldering and lead, and gave momentum to the actual performance.
Narasaki won the World Championships in August with speed 2nd, bouldering 1st, and lead 2nd, and grabbed the ticket for the Tokyo Olympics and became the most promising candidate for the first Olympic champion.
Over the last two years, we've been working to make sure we're grabbed the gold medal by compensating for our weaknesses and gaining more complete strength.
One of them is overcoming the weakness in bouldering, which Narasaki positions as "it is essential to take a good ranking" in fighting the compound.
Originally I was good at dynamic "dynamic" movements, but I was not good at "static" movements that gradually exerted power.
Therefore, from this point on, I have assigned a new bouldering coach to set up difficult tasks and have faced them thoroughly while receiving objective advice.
In March, I hurt my elbow because of the amount of practice.
The first task of the qualifying for this tournament was a setting in which holds shaped like spoons were lined up side by side, and it was required to move slowly while continuing to apply force to the thumb.
Even there, Narasaki climbed up with one try and deepened his confidence, saying, "I think that the number of tries required to complete the climb as a whole is decreasing and growth can be seen."
When asked about his current feelings about the opening of the Olympics, which is about a month away, he answered, "I'm most excited, but I'm a little nervous. I feel the expectations of those around me, and I'm expecting myself." It was.
We are fully prepared and are about to enter the first big stage while gradually feeling the height of our feelings.