The World Cup of Sports Climbing Speed was held in the United States, and female Miho Nonaka finished in 3rd place, the first Japanese player to be on the podium in the speed event.
The speed of sports climbing is an event to compete for the speed of climbing using a universal route on the wall with a height of 15 meters, which is also held in the third event of the Tokyo Olympics, and the World Cup will be held in Salt Lake City, USA on the 28th. I was struck.
Nonaka, who has been nominated for the Olympics as a girl, advanced to the final tournament where the top 16 qualifiers compete one-on-one, and set a new Japanese record of 8 seconds 20 in the quarterfinals.
Although Nonaka lost in the semi-finals, he beat the powerful Polish player in the bronze medal match and finished in 3rd place, the first Japanese player to be on the podium in the speed event.
Japan has a small population of speed athletes, and Nonaka had just started practicing four years before the decision to implement speed at the Olympics, but he set up his own wall at a university in Tokyo and worked hard on physical training. I have become able to set a stable and good time.
In addition to Nonaka, Japanese athletes who have been nominated for the Olympic team participated in the tournament, and female Akiyo Noguchi advanced to the final tournament but was eliminated in the first round.
Tomoa Narasaki, who holds the Japanese record for speed in the men's ace, was eliminated in the qualifying by flying, and Kai Harada was 34th in the qualifying.
Nonaka "Definitely leads to confidence"
Miho Nonaka said, "I'm really happy because I hadn't imagined it. It was a great experience to climb myself under pressure and various situations."
For the Tokyo Olympics, he said, "This result will definitely lead to confidence. Now that each race is important, I am grateful for the opportunity I have and have made efforts to use my energy, so I am glad that it has come to fruition." Was there.