In the first match of the event for athletes who have been nominated for the Tokyo Olympics in sports climbing, the Japan Cup, which competes for the best bouldering in Japan, has begun in Tokyo, and for girls, Miho Nonaka, who has been nominated for the national team, passed the qualifying in 1st place. Did.
Bouldering for sports climbing is one of the events included in the complex held at the Tokyo Olympics, and the Japan Cup, which competes for the best in Japan, started with no spectators as a countermeasure against infection with the new coronavirus in a two-day schedule.
While attention is focused on the first match of the four men and women who have been appointed as the Olympic representatives, in the women's qualifying, Nonaka, who won this tournament, climbed all five courses called challenges and finished first. I advanced to the semi-finals.
Akiyo Noguchi, who aims to win the championship for the first time in three years, was fifth in qualifying.
On the other hand, in the men's qualifying, difficult tasks continued and the two Olympic representatives also struggled, with Tomoa Narasaki in 7th place and Kai Harada, who is aiming for the second consecutive title in the tournament, in 15th place.
Kokoro Fujii was first in qualifying.
The tournament will be held on the 31st, with the semi-finals and finals.
Nonaka, 1st in the women's qualifying, "I want to win"
"I'm getting fat," he said with a laugh and showing his muscular upper arms.
Miho Nonaka, who completed all the tasks in the qualifying, has positioned January and February as physical fitness strengthening periods in anticipation of the Summer Olympics, and has increased strength training from once a week until last year to twice a week. , I faced this tournament without adjusting the amount of practice, but all the tasks in the qualifying were completed and got off to a good start.
The highlight was the task that envisioned a continuous movement called "coordination," in which the hold held by three hands lined up diagonally upward was jumped with the power of the upper body.
While many players fell trying to move to the third at a stretch, Nonaka said, "I felt it was better to stop at the second," and stopped at the second, and after regaining his position, the third. I moved slowly to and succeeded vividly.
Nonaka said, "I was able to lift my body firmly with my upper body and control my body." He said, "I am confident in my training, so I want to win the championship." Looking at the top of the first game of.
Women in 5th place in qualifying Noguchi "I want to remember the match"
Akiyo Noguchi, who completed four of the five tasks in the qualifying and passed in 5th place, said, "I had some reflections because I couldn't concentrate and I wasn't able to finish. I want to remember the theme of the first match of this year.
Regarding the Tokyo Olympics, which is positioned as the last tournament in active duty, there are voices concerned about holding it due to the influence of the new coronavirus, "We have not decided to postpone or cancel it yet. Believe that it will be held, I want to do my best to do what I can, "he emphasized his focus on himself.
Men's Narasaki Harada struggled
The men's qualifying was so difficult that the adult bouldering world champion Tomoa Narasaki described it as "very difficult", and of the five tasks, Narasaki had only two complete climbs and Kai Harada had only one. I did.
Narasaki said, "In the tournament after a long time, I couldn't cope with my climb and I felt like I was" pushing "and climbing. I think I can fix it by repeating the semifinals and finals." I swore.
Harada said, "It's time for training with an eye on the Olympics, so it's not in the best condition, but I still couldn't show my strength."