The Japan Cup, which decides the best combination of sports climbing in Japan, was held, and this month, Miho Nonaka, who was appointed as the representative of the Tokyo Olympics, won the women's championship for the second time in a row.
The tournament is the event of the Tokyo Olympics for sports climbing, and it decides the best compound in Japan that competes for the overall result of the third event. ..
Nonaka, who won last year's tournament as a girl, was appointed as a representative on the 12th of this month after the court of arbitration for sports ended the conflict between the competition groups over the selection criteria for the Olympic Games for more than a year. ..
Nonaka, who became the first official match after being appointed as a representative, won the second straight victory with a total of 2 points by multiplying the three rankings with 2nd in speed, 1st in bouldering, and 1st in lead.
In bouldering, Nonaka showed off his powerful climb even in a harsh outdoor environment, such as completing two of the three courses called "tasks".
For the boys, Kokoro Fujii won the championship for the first time with a total of 15 points, including 5th in speed, 1st in bouldering, and 3rd in lead.
Men's Tomoa Narasaki, Kai Harada, and women's Akiyo Noguchi, who have been nominated for the Tokyo Olympics, did not participate in this tournament.
Nonaka "The goal is a gold medal"
Miho Nonaka, who won the championship, said, "I made a mistake of slipping my hand at the first speed and my heart was broken, but I believed that I had practiced in bouldering and lead after that and concentrated on what I should do and did my best. It feels great to win the championship for the second time in a row, "he said with a smile.
For next year, the Olympic season, he said, "I don't know what the tournament will be like in Corona, but I want to do my best to reach my goal of gold medal."
Fujii, the first men's champion, "Talking with Harada, who has been unofficially decided to represent the Olympics."
Kokoro Fujii, who won the first men's championship, was aiming for the Tokyo Olympics, but was forced to end the selection race by the judgment of the Court of Arbitration for Sport regarding the representative selection criteria for sports climbing presented this month, and he went to the Olympics. The road was closed on the way.
For this tournament, "I was shocked and not motivated, but two days before the tournament, I met Kai Harada, who was appointed as the Olympic representative, at the practice field and said," Congratulations, do your best. " The Tokyo Olympics were completely over for me, and I was able to change my mind, "he said in a statement to his rivals.
28-year-old Fujii will leave the climbing gym where he was working as an employee by the end of the year and will become a professional climber from next year aiming for the 2024 Paris Olympics, "This time Corona will make the game disappear. After experiencing it, I was about 30 years old and I could retire at any time, and I didn't want to regret my life. From next year, I will win all the competitions, "he said, taking a new step. I will.