- What was the purpose of your project “Mission Doable - 14/7”?
- I did not try to become famous or make a name for myself, I had no selfish motives. I set three world records while still serving in the special forces, but no one knew about this. Then I was engaged in mountaineering only during dismissal, in secret from everyone.
With this project, I wanted to change the idea of human capabilities. In addition, most of the eight-thousander mountains are located in Nepal, and, in my opinion, local climbers do not receive the recognition they deserve, so my goal was also to glorify Nepalese climbers. And, of course, I wanted to draw attention to the problem of global warming, which I sincerely consider one of the most important today.
- How did you decide to become a climber?
- I served in special forces for ten years, and before that I was a gurkha for six years (British and Indian troops, recruited from Nepalese volunteers. - RT ). In total, I spent sixteen years in the British Armed Forces. Where I just did not visit and what I just did not do! And when you have seen so many things, it begins to seem that you are invulnerable.
You know, getting into the British special forces is not so easy. I became the first Nepalese Gurkha who was accepted there over the 200 years of the existence of this kind of troops. The selection there is extremely tough. In the ranks of the special forces, I had to do a very difficult job, and after ten years you begin to think that you can do anything. However, hiking in the mountains made me look at life from a different perspective. This is the only reason I go mountain climbing.
- What difficulties did you encounter when implementing your project?
- With different. So, we had to climb at a wind speed of 75 km / h or in incredibly difficult conditions with visibility less than a meter. In addition, during the implementation of the project, we took part in many unplanned rescue operations. At times, financing problems seemed an insurmountable obstacle.
But the difficulties do not scare me. Even at the height I am able to think as clearly as below. I just believed in this project. He believed that I could overcome all difficulties and obstacles and achieve my goal. In the end, our team succeeded.
- During the ascent, you move away from civilization for a long time. How important is a reliable team in these conditions?
- There is nothing more important. As you said, isolation from the rest of the world awaits you and you will have to make decisions on which people's lives may depend. So the team must trust you.
In addition, when you set ambitious goals, you need a team that you can always rely on without hesitation. When climbing the eight-thousander, anything can happen. In a literal sense. So to choose reliable partners was one of the main conditions for the implementation of the project.
In the project “Mission is feasible - 14/7” the team I got was perfect. And just as a team we won. Now we are almost like a family to each other, like brothers.
- What was the most difficult climb and why?
- Each mountain has its own character. Without a doubt, this time the most difficult was climbing to Dhaulagiri in extremely difficult weather conditions and without a railing (special safety rope. - RT ). But psychologically and physically, the greatest test was the conquest of Kanchenjunga, because we did not really sleep and, in addition, we had to carry out a rescue operation, during which we gave our victims oxygen tanks.
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- You had no doubt that you would meet the planned deadlines?
- There were no doubts. I was completely sure of success. But this became possible only due to the fact that I devoted myself to the business one hundred percent and maintained a very positive attitude. The efforts of the team also played a big role.
Initially, we planned to meet the deadline of 4.5 months, but we had to lay extra time for unforeseen situations, attracting financing, negotiations with politicians and so on. I knew that I would have to face these problems anyway, so I set the bar at seven months.
This project is unique in all respects: I not only set a new world record, but also hung up the railing for other climbers and laid new routes. We laid two new paths, which we will talk about in the film, which will be released later. Also, along the way, I had to work as a guide to raise funds, communicate with local and foreign politicians.
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- It's no secret that mountaineering is a rather expensive sport. How did you manage to raise the necessary funds for your project?
- During the implementation of the project “Mission is feasible - 14/7”, one of our main tasks was to raise funds. We had a year for this. But nine months of work did not give any results - we suffered a complete fiasco, so I had to personally engage in raising funds, and I did nothing more difficult in my life!
Sponsors did not believe in the success of the event. “This is unrealistic,” they told me. - How can I crank everything in seven months, when the previous record is almost 8 years? Besides, you haven’t been climbing for so long. ” It was extremely difficult, people simply did not believe that I would succeed. They could not even imagine such a thing.
I was asked how many followers I have on Instagram, how authoritative I am and what I can do for their brand, to which I replied: “By the end of the project, a billion people will know about me, but first I need your help.” But no one helped. Only a few companies agreed. But the rest was very hard.
Once I was driving in a car, and tears flowed from my eyes - the fundraising was so exhausting for me. But during the service in the special forces I saw a lot, performed a lot of extremely dangerous and stressful tasks. I had to stop, get together and ask myself: “Why did you even do this?” After which I again set out on the road and continued to work.
That's what it came to. Nothing ever knocked me out of my life, but here I was very close. So financing is really a very difficult issue. But nothing is impossible.
- You did not think about how to improve your record?
- Yes, I thought. After all, records are needed in order to beat them. I am glad that I was able to show what a person is really capable of. Previously, no one could have dreamed of such a thing. Now people believe that this is possible, and if you believe, you are capable of anything.
- You pay a lot of attention to the problem of global warming. What does this topic mean to you?
- Honestly, when I first heard about climate change, I did not believe it. But then everything changed.
In 2014, I climbed Ama Dablam, and while we were staying in the first high-altitude camp, it was possible to melt snow, drink the resulting water, cook food and even live. But when I got there again last year, we had to drag tens of liters of water from the base camp there, because there was no snow at that level. Through pain and hard work, I realized that climate change is no joke.
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Another example is Dhaulagiri, which I first conquered in 2014. Returning to the mountain this year, I found that the size of the glacier was noticeably reduced. It can be seen with the naked eye that it has seriously melted.
People worry about their homes, about being left without a roof over their heads, but I think that this is not what you need to worry about. Our home is nature, Earth. In case of their death there will be nothing left. I believe that everyone can contribute to the conservation of nature. If we all make an effort, we will succeed.
- Mountaineering is now becoming more popular than ever. This is due to the development of new technologies and the ability to move around the world. Will massive winter ascents ever be possible?
- Nothing is impossible, but I'm not sure about mass character. I doubt that someday we will see really crowded climbs in winter - the weather conditions at this time of the year are too complicated. But for individual groups of climbers this is within reach.
- You have conquered fourteen eight-thousanders! There are no such peaks in Russia. However, we have a Greater Caucasus. You did not think to conquer any height in Russia? Or are you no longer interested in mountains below 8000 meters?
- In fact, I have already climbed in Russia - I climbed Elbrus and visited here in winter expeditions. Your country has a rich history of mountaineering and is the birthplace of many excellent craftsmen.
- We have a training course for journalists who want to work in extreme conditions. You served in the Navy, in special forces, more precisely ...
“At the Special Boat Service, yes.”
- At these courses, journalists are kept under stressful conditions for a week, and trained to provide first aid. What can you advise to representatives of the press who have to work in extreme situations?
- The main thing is to give oneself one hundred percent. And then for each problem there is a solution, just believe in yourself. That, in fact, is all. Everything is simple.
See the full version of the interview on the RTD website.