Keyword to Tokyo “100% or more” Moe Nonaka Spokura Aug. 26 14:44

This month's sports climbing world championship.
Imo Nonaka is Japan's second-ranked fifth place in the “complex” Olympic event. In this tournament, I couldn't decide the Tokyo Olympic representative.
Nonetheless, Nonaka, who is enthusiastic about fighting as “an opportunity still remains,” was determined to be “over 100%” as a keyword for Tokyo.

There are three types of sports climbing: “Speed”, which competes for speed on a global route, “Bouldering”, which competes for the number of climbed walls, and “Lead”, which competes for height. A “composite” will be held.

Professional climber Imo Nonaka is 22 years old from Toshima-ku, Tokyo.
It has a dynamic movement that takes advantage of the speed and instantaneous power of the foot, and is good at “bouldering”.

Last season he won the first overall victory in the World Cup.

Looking for a practice environment ...

For the Tokyo Olympics, we are aiming for participation while actively incorporating new attempts.

The “Speed” wall dedicated to Nonaka is installed at the university building in Tokyo. Nonaka was raised by crowdfunding and completed in December last year.

Because there are few speed barriers in the country, we paid attention to the university building close to home and realized the need to provide a place.

On this day, after practicing "speed" for about 2 hours, I moved to a bouldering gym 30 minutes away by train.
By practicing in the same order as the “composite”, where the third event is performed per day, I am trying to get used to my fatigue.

There was a gym manager who knew all the holds in the world.

In bouldering, there are many players who do not wear coaches depending on their own senses, but Nonaka asked the store manager for the Tokyo Olympics.

“I think that there are times when I think that there is an approach that I thought with another person's head, and that I can be studying twice in one climb,” Nonaka said.

We are improving our skills through trial and error while receiving advice on how to capture difficult routes set by coaches.

The keyword is “100% or more”

Nonaka is his own style that moves himself and does everything. The keyword for the Tokyo Olympics was “100% or more”.

“When I fall back after practicing, I think that I was 100% power right now. “I think it is kana,” he told me about the thoughts in that word.

In this month's world championship, the left shoulder worsened during the tournament, of which both shoulders were originally damaged.
In the combined final, the first “speed” made mistakes one after the other, and the final ranking remained at the fifth place, making it impossible to decide on the Tokyo Olympics representative.

Still, “No chances remain,” Nonaka said.
We are prepared to continue “over 100%” with the goal firmly in mind.