Sports climbing Aki Mori “There is no Tokyo” August 16th 7:16
The first Japanese women to climb the podium in the world of sports climbing world champions was Keiyo Noguchi, who was first in high school in 2005. In this tournament, where the first person came as the final world championship, Akira Mori Aki, who was from the same high school year and the same Ibaraki prefecture, climbed the podium for the first time in 14 years. For the 15-year-old, who is expected to play an active role in the Paris Olympics five years later, as a future growth, it became a bronze medal on the big stage where the hope of the Tokyo Olympics can be seen.
In the middle of the final route, when Mori moved to the hold next to the steep wall that leaned forward, he put his foot first, but when he judged that he was in a bad position, he returned and changed his direction. This time, the hand has been moved successfully.
Mori showed a calm correction and at the same time exhausted his stamina, but Mori last year increased his weight by 8 kilos to increase power.
Furthermore, in practice, I lived over the menu that trains stamina and mentality to continue training climbing the wall without taking a break, `` with tears '', and I was able to raise my altitude even after clearing the key points It is.
15 years old from Ibaraki Prefecture. Mr. Noguchi, a senior student who watched Mori from a small age in his hometown, described his junior as "How to climb when tired is good and how to climb calmly. There is a lot to learn".
In climbing, he shows the ability of adults, but in June, when he won the private bouldering tournament held on Father's Day and won a prize of 1 million yen, he asked the reporter how to use it. I want to go to a store that I can't usually go on surprise as a gift for the day. "
On the other hand, at the Tokyo Olympics next year, he said with a straight line, “I was originally aiming for Paris, but now I do n’t have Tokyo.”
In aiming for the Tokyo Olympics, where only the 3rd class overall competition is held, the challenge for Mori is the speed of climbing the wall. The current time is in the 12-second range, and while the Japanese record, Moe Nonaka, has consistently marked the 8-second range and Noguchi in the 9-second range, there is still nothing to do.
Still, 15 years old. If we can achieve rapid growth at the future speed and draw a smooth growth curve for the other two races, we may be able to break into the Olympic competition with just two frames. Words are realistic.