Restaurants
Pilar Akaneya
14
Kitchen
Remarkable
Service
Outstanding
Cellar
Remarkable
Decoration / atmosphere
Remarkable
Madrid
Average Price: From 60 to 100 euros
Japanese cuisine
It is a traditional 'sumibiyaki', a place with charcoal barbecues where the customer roasts their own cuts of Japanese wagyu
Veteran fans will remember that when the first Japanese restaurants opened in Madrid, a matter of half a century ago, they did not serve sushi or sashimi but rather miso soup and hot dishes.
Then the sushi swept
, but other food houses were also appearing, specialized in the varied noodles -ramen, soba, udon-, in the okonomiyaki or Japanese omelette (the Hanakura, in Olavide), or in the noble imperial cuisine or kaiseki.
Well, get ready for
another novelty, and one of the important ones
: after nine years in Barcelona,
Akaneya
(who is called Carlota there and here Pilar, like the mothers of two of the founders) has opened
the first traditional Sumibiyaki
three months ago in Chamberí
of our city
.
That is to say, a place with charcoal barbecues in which each customer grills their own cuts of authentic Japanese wagyu, delving into the different categories of fat infiltration in the meat, including the
Kobe Beef A5
, the whitest and infiltrated, the most valued in Japan.
Its export was banned for years, but since 2014 it has reached Europe, including three restaurants in Spain.
Very discreet on the outside -as always in Japan-, minimalist and refined on the inside, you can see the previous experience in Barcelona in which everything works perfectly in the
house of Ignasi Elías and his partner Chiho Murata
, from the concrete barbecues, brick and wood that at each service receive sumi, charcoal, even utensils for such a peculiar meal and the constant smiling instructions to the customer.
The restaurant only operates five nights a week, and its success with the public is evident.
It offers
two menus, both long and narrow
, that take
at least two hours
to complete:
remember the closing rules ...
Our menu -the short one- started with
an unbeatable miso soup with wakame and onion
and some
chicken and vegetable
gyoza
, not to mention the soba noodles with vegetables.
After a seafood of the day, which were irreproachable red prawns on the coals -of Portuguese charcoal, not Japanese, they confessed
to us-
came the
yasai to kinoto
, a
very rich and multipurpose
hotpot
: we tried it alone, it served us to cook the first wagyu cut -the teresmaior that is the shoulder, as they explained to us, the leanest- and that we finished after adding rice.
The popular part of the menu is the parade of thin cuts of wagyu with
different degrees of fat infiltration
, which each diner grills to their liking over the vegetable embers: tomosankaku (picaña), zabuton (over rib) and karubi (breast) , which is the most fatty and appreciated.
It is fun and a great cultural experience,
but as we already know from a trip to Japan, the fat / excellence ratio (in meats such as belly
or
tuna) is something that the Japanese appreciate more than we do.
But it's good.
Some mochis and a creamy chocolate and ...
Arigato!
The wine list, brief,
has bottles of great interest
that we suspect come from Vila Viniteca, from the Garnachas of Comando G to the priories of Mas Doix, and there is a serious selection of sakes.
According to the criteria of
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