Metropolis: The ten restaurants you must try this spring
A year ago around this time, the pandemic surprised locals and strangers and left Madrid orphans of restaurants, taverns and bars.
There was hardly time for openings such as
Hermanos Vinagre
(the tavern dedicated to the traditional aperitif where pickles and salted fish are the law opened by the brothers Enrique and Carlos Valenti) or
Farmacia de Guardia
(a very young space managed by O'Percebeiro, chef Iñaki Bretal and the Palleiro family in which it is committed to recipes of Galician inspiration and techniques from the world) will settle in the Madrid hospitality scene.
And many others that remained in the inkwell ...
But those times passed and, despite the fact that the restrictions are still tough, many brave people dare with
new informal culinary proposals, where snacking is the watchword
.
And although the bars are still closed, while we wait for their reopening, in this selection of new venues it is possible to enjoy good portions, sharing tables or nightstands.
Mortar House
At the end of the summer of 2020, chef Pedro Gallego inaugurated his most personal gastronomic project.
A warm space that serves as the setting for a traditional kitchen that respects tradition but with a touch of updating.
There are creamy croquettes of Iberian ham, torrezno with
meneás
potatoes
and paprika mash,
mussels with homemade pickle and their vegetables
, grilled sardines
skewers
with toasted bread and spicy dressing ... and snout or the lower back of an old cow.
Address:
Zorrilla, 9.
Snacking area at Casa Orellana.
Batch
In the Vallehermoso Market, this stall, which also has a tasting area, specializes in
fermented products
.
Directed by Daniel Varea (cook) and Nacho García (fermentista).
Its specialty is kimchis, sauerkraut, kombuchas, hot sauces ... which can be purchased to take away or try there in various preparations, such as meatballs with red cabbage and green apple sauerkraut or the kimchi and cheese sandwich.
Don't leave without trying po boy, New Orleans' most famous oyster sandwich.
Address:
Vallehermoso, 36.
The Castizo of Velázquez
It belongs to the Carbón Negro group, it is a traditional tavern (with its bar, its tables) with urban designs.
The menu has been carefully created by Hugo Muñoz, the group's executive chef, who has opted for a twist on traditional Madrid recipes.
To start with, laterío fino (mussels from Ramón Franco),
pickles, salted or smoked
(aubergines from Almagro, tuna mojama from almadraba or anchovies in vinegar from Ahumados Domínguez).
Afterwards, some seafood, cold meats and sausages, muffins (look at the veal pepito), cold dishes (Russian salad, stuffed eggs, salpicón) and hot proposals (bravas, torreznos, chicken in pepitoria, red shrimp with garlic).
To enter and not leave ...
Address:
Velázquez, 97.
Tasting area in D.Origen.
Tatema Madrid
It is located in Lavapiés and its name refers to an ancestral way of cooking in Mexico:
tatemar, cooking food on fire almost until it burns
.
And that is what this charming local sells, a traveling and informal culinary proposal, as multicultural as the neighborhood in which it is located, in which almost everything happens on the embers.
Tatemada on the cob with popcorn powder, parmesan and roasted garlic aioli;
Vietnamese pork belly taco with pickles and hot sauce;
pork ssäm with tonkatsu sauce;
Grilled heart salad with sardines ... To accompany, craft beers.
Address:
Argumosa, 11.
Orellana House
It is located in the heart of the Las Salesas neighborhood and its traditional but current snack offer is an ode when it comes to aperitif.
The Sevillian chef Guillermo Salazar is responsible for a wonderful collection of classic dishes with a refined essence, such as the house gilda, oxtail croquettes,
pringá muffin with idiazábal cheese
, tuna salad with homemade pickle, the sea bass marinated in garlic or anchovies with farmhouse butter.
To pass the drink, vermouth Lustau.
It has a terrace and is open non-stop.
Address:
Orellana, 6.
Informal area in Sagrario Tradition.
D. Origin
Luis Muñoz, Mario Scheffer and Gon Hierro have just inaugurated a three-in-one space in the heart of Chamberí.
This D.Origen is a gourmet market, a butcher's shop and also a cafeteria-restaurant where you can try (almost) at any time of the day the food that is displayed in its windows.
For example, rice black pudding with DO Burgos with peppers and egg, the
omelette in the casserole with caramelised onion and truffle
or the ripened picaña oil cake with idiazábal and arugula.
Address:
Gaztambide, 62.
D'Platos Delight
After succeeding in Granada (where this project originated) and in Malaga, the Madrid headquarters has finally been inaugurated.
In a huge space (250 square meters) with designer furniture, the formula for success that already works in southern Spain is replicated.
You choose the drink and select the tapa (or tapas) you want to take (1.90 euros per unit):
guacamole and roasted sardine tostita, salmorejo with Iberian crystals, stew croquettes
, homemade potatoes with spicy sauce, chapatín de tenderloin with aioli sauce ... There are also portions to share and trendy dishes, such as various burgers or tuna tartare.
Address:
Eloy Gonzalo, 4.
Tuna Porn, in Zoko.
Humid neighborhood
The Barrio Húmedo is, perhaps, the most popular area of León.
It is located in the historic center of the city and is known for being one of the great tapas routes in Spain, where with each consumption a bite is offered.
Thus, it is not surprising that under this label in Madrid there is a tavern with a Leonese soul located in front of the Retiro Park run by Luis de Paz, an industrial engineer reinvented into a 21st century tavern keeper.
On the menu, beef jerky, beef tongue cured with vinaigrette,
cazurra
salad
(with conger eel),
cod with ajoarriero maragato
, pickled sardine toast with El Bierzo pepper, pork ear stewed in sauce ... To the wines , essential the references of prieto weevil.
Address:
Avenida Menéndez Pelayo, 37.
Tabernacle Tradition
The Valladolid chef and winegrower Nicolás Barros runs this traditional food house with the soul of a wine bar that has an informal area dedicated to sharing tapas and portions.
At the entrance, next to the window, it is possible to enjoy dishes in which, as the name of the establishment already anticipates, tradition is a watchword.
Sample the
torrezno with piparra and chives
, the homemade sausages (smoked bacon, beef tongue, suckling pig mask), the mullet pate with truffle and boletus, the croquette or the tripe.
To drink, a selection of 70 references that vary according to the season and in which natural wines have a place of honor.
Address:
Plaza de Valparaíso, 3.
Lacón slipper in the old Melo's.
Zoko Valdemarin
Originating in Cádiz, the Zoko group landed in Madrid four years ago with its headquarters in front of the Retiro Park.
Now, they replicate the project that was born in Zahara de los Atunes in the Valdemarín area, in a space with a similar
look
(garage air and worship of Bowie and the Stones) and with several of its classics on the menu, such as
Tuna Pornography
, the shrimp tacos, the tuna salad with smoked chili peppers or grilled shrimp skewer with chamomile and pack choi.
To snack between meals, chicharrón de Chiclana, beef jerky or payoyo cheese.
The wine list offers a good selection of sherries and in the range of cocktails you should not miss the Tuna Rita, a version of the classic margarita in which the salt is replaced by a heart touch of salted tuna.
Address:
Avenida de Valdemarín, 167.
Bar Melo's
After 40 years of history, last October the
mythical bar in Lavapiés, famous for its
lacón
slippers
,
lowered the blind
.
But in mid-February, social networks were on fire when it was learned that three young entrepreneurs (Rafael Riqueni, Alejando Martínez and Ignacio Revuelta) had taken over the place to continue the tradition.
A) Yes?
Exactly the same?
Yes, everything remains exactly the same because they have inherited everything from the former owners.
Except for the croquettes recipe ... (the secret of their béchamel will have to be discovered by trial error).
In addition, a novelty: the cod, the same (or as similar as possible) as that of Casa Revuelta, an inn that once belonged to the family of one of the partners.
Long live the new Melo's!
Address:
Ave María, 44.
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