Paris (AFP)

Hermès has placed its collection of women's ready-to-wear under the sign of "freedom to reinvent", with bare backs galore, bras and low-cut bodysuits revealing the hips, thus joining the rebellion of French high school girls against " correct outfits ".

Faithful to the purity of its line and its quiet elegance, the French luxury house has this season put the accent on the "rediscovered sensuality" of a body which "does not slip away", according to the note of intent of the show Saturday in Paris.

Sophisticated and in no way provocative, the black or flesh-colored bodysuits, revealing the back and the waist, are worn over leather skirts below the knee.

- no bra -

The bra is an essential piece for casual jacket-shorts or jacket-pants sets.

On the podium, the navel can be seen under the layers of a suit and burgundy leather coat, even if this has nothing to do with the crop top / jeans that many college girls and high school girls put on in mid-September as part of the a flash mob across France against the "correct outfits" required.

Latest rebound to date, the publication of a survey carried out in the wake of this mobilization which asked if the French wanted establishments to ban the wearing of certain clothes deemed provocative including "necklines", tops worn without a bra (" no bra ") or" crop tops ", showing the belly.

More than half of the respondents answered yes.

Hollywood actress Sharon Stone, who kicked off Paris Fashion Week on Monday, called on designers to think about a "fairer representation of today's strong and empowered women," in a video.

The “obsession” of the Hermès spring-summer 2021 collection, designed by Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, is the apron that goes down to the chest and turns into pants leaving a good part of the upper body bare.

"A sensitive second skin that breathes and asserts itself", explains Hermès.

Knowing that we are "vulnerable" in the face of the crisis, Hermès offers "armor", both light and airy, made of mesh and leather that slip on tight, tone-on-tone mini-dresses.

The colors are warm and sensual: sand, ecru, earth, chocolate with touches of red and orange.

- Sensual jewelry -

The Hermès woman keeps her feet on the ground in clogs in natural colors designed by Pierre Hardy.

The designer in charge of leather goods and jewelry at Hermès on Wednesday presented his new collection of fine jewelry, also around sensuality.

“I started with what happens between the body and the jewel, how the jewel can come back to meet the body or take care of it,” Pierre Hardy told AFP.

The collection was presented in a dark room, which was lightly lit during the screening of a film featuring women adorned with these jewels, in simple clothes and by the sea.

Graphic or fluid like a necklace or a bracelet in gold and diamonds, these pieces are "manifestations in stones and gold" of emotions or gestures and blend with the skin.

“Traditionally, the jewel was something made for others, a marker, a hierarchical sign of power. Today, we are very far from that. Women have a very personal relationship with jewelry, hence the shapes that marry ".

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