The face of Paul Bocuse on the walls of the Auberge du Pont de Collonges, in Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or. - JEFF PACHOUD / AFP
Thunderbolt for a legendary restaurant. The Auberge de Paul Bocuse will lose its third Michelin star in 2020, according to information from Le Point and the specialized site Atabula, confirmed 20 minutes by the famous Guide. This demotion comes almost two years to the day after the disappearance of "Monsieur Paul".
The Auberge de Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or has had its three stars for 55 years. "GL events, organizing company of the Bocuse d'Or, wishes to give its unwavering support to the Maison Bocuse which has just seen its third Michelin star withdrawn after 55 years", according to a press release from the organizers of the international competition Bocuse d'Or cuisine, launched in 1987 by the chef.
Contemporary lobster and light dumpling
Some critics already said long before the chef's death at 91 that the Auberge de Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or was no longer up to scratch and guides had classified it in the institution category, failing to do so. to note. Modernization efforts - "tradition in motion" as defined by the management teams of this institution - will therefore not have been enough.
"The chefs have worked and reworked the dishes, they have refined them for more than a year, making them evolve while retaining their DNA, their original taste", explained to Le Progrès Vincent Le Roux, general manager, a few days ago . For example, the presentation of the whole lobster is more contemporary, the lighter dumpling accompanied by a champagne sauce.
"I like butter"
Major renovations are also nearing completion and the restaurant must reopen after three weeks of closure, on January 24, three days before the official release of the new Michelin Guide. "Monsieur Paul" defined himself as "a follower of traditional cuisine". "I like butter, cream, wine" and not "peas quartered", he said in Paul Bocuse, Sacred Fire (ed. Glénat - 2005).
With the loss of this star, "it's the whole Bocuse d'Or family who expresses their sadness and their renewed respect for the work of Mr. Paul", reacted Olivier Ginon, president of the GL events group who recalls "the contribution of Paul Bocuse to world cuisine, its cultural and heritage imprint ”.
- Michelin Guide