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Paradise must be earned!
On Basse-Terre, the Parabole waterfall is only offered to the brave capable of braving the traps of the tropical forest.
-
Jean-Claude Urbain
The Kalinagos Native Americans called it Karukera.
Then the explorer Christopher Columbus, impressed by the majesty of its waterfalls, nicknamed it "the island of beautiful waters", before dedicating it to Notre-Dame de Guadeloupe to honor a promise as a sailor.
Today, it is its evocative morphology that has earned it the name of "butterfly island".
During its troubled history, Guadeloupe has known the worst: the European conquest and quarrels, the genocide of the natives, slavery, revolts, hurricanes, chemical pollution and the humiliating assistantship.
But this overseas region has also managed to keep the best.
The big island and its outbuildings spread wonders in profusion on the azure of the Lesser Antilles.
On Basse-Terre, the lush heights escape the crowds on the coast.
- Jean-Claude Urbain
Natural icons of Guadeloupe, the Soufrière volcano, the Carbet waterfalls, the Sainte-Anne beach and the Saintes bay are easily accessible, and therefore very busy.
Fortunately, some treasures that are still well guarded remain sheltered from crowds.
To find them, you have to put on your walking shoes, question the inhabitants and be patient, or call on the wise advice of a responsible agency in love with its environment, such as Maranatha Tours.
Caribbean night
On the Atlantic side, the “windward” wing of the butterfly corresponds to Grande-Terre.
The spectacular coastline of this part alternates beaches, coves, hills, capes and cliffs.
From the Pointe de la Grande Vigie, the small roads meander through the fertile Grippon plain.
Planted with fruit trees, tubers, vegetables, spices and medicinal plants, the Creole gardens guide budding naturalists, athletes and lovers of supernatural phenomena as far as the Grand Cul-de-sac marin.
This lagoon, open to the Caribbean Sea, is the disturbing kingdom of crabs and mangroves.
Classified as a “biosphere reserve” by Unesco, its mangrove swamp is an ecosystem of immense richness, which invites canoeing.
Domain of mangroves and occult beliefs, the labyrinth of the mangrove is only accessible by canoe.
- Jean-Claude Urbain
In the cove of Vieux-Bourg, a few minutes of effort is enough to reach the Macou islet, where the astonishing Notre-Dame de la Garde chapel is hidden.
Loaded with fetishes and ex-votos, the building attacked by the waves is a place of magico-religious rites.
The surrounding mangrove swamp, which served as a refuge for fleeing slaves is, in fact, the seat of occult beliefs.
It is especially at night, in the tangle of roots, that the canoe excursion borders on the fantastic.
With each stroke of the paddle, the dark surface of the water lights up a fleeting electric blue.
Impossible to resist the urge to wave your hand in the sparkling fluid!
Scientists have long debunked the phenomenon by explaining that it was bioluminescent phytoplankton.
The show is nonetheless hypnotic.
In the shadow of the Soufrière
Basse-Terre is even more exuberant.
The "leeward" wing of the butterfly is dominated by an "Old Lady" whose slightest breath we scrutinize.
They say that when she coughs, all of Guadeloupe starts to tremble.
Fortunately, since the 1976 alert, Soufrière has dozed off.
A boon for hikers who move on its sides in a chaos of the beginning of the world.
La Soufrière is an “Old Lady” at rest.
Hikers take the opportunity to walk its paths bathed in sulphurous vapors.
- Jean-Claude Urbain
With its 1,467 meters high, this volcano is the highest point of the Lesser Antilles.
The valiant walkers who reach the crater are generally welcomed by a bath of sulfur vapors.
But although smelly, the "Old Lady" reserves some surprises for the more observant.
At nightfall, when the reinettes begin their rowdy concert, several species of endemic insects make their appearance.
This is the case of the Soufrière tarantula, which lives on the heights of the volcano, and nowhere else in the world.
Rich in colossal biodiversity, "the island of beautiful waters" also has legendary waterfalls.
Some of them are so well hidden in the sweltering forest that many locals are struggling to find them.
The daring who succeed can therefore often enjoy their crystal clear waters on their own.
The cascade of the ravine Paradis and its basalt columns remain a well-kept secret.
- Jean-Claude Urbain
Parabola is one of those falls, many of which know the name, but very few know the location.
It is only after an hour-long trek on a slippery path, cluttered by giant philodendron leaves and mossy roots, that you get there.
In the Grande-Rivière valley, the cascade of the Paradis ravine is even more mysterious.
The path leading to it gets lost several times in the stream, which you have to ford.
Surrounded by beautiful basalt columns, it fully deserves its name.
As close as possible to perfection
A stone's throw from Basse-Terre, from the town of Trois-Rivière, the setting is idyllic.
Discovered by Columbus the day after All Saints' Day 1493, the Saintes form a volcanic chain whose promontories have long played a military role.
Their bay of perfect proportions is one of the most beautiful and safest in the Antilles.
This archipelago, caressed by the trade winds, is therefore a dream spot to indulge in all types of water sports, but also to learn more about preserved local flora.
Of the nine islands and islets of Les Saintes, only two are inhabited.
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(@jcurbain) on Aug 24, 2020 at 4:44 am PDT
With its arcuate handle defended by a basalt sugar loaf, Terre-de-Haut evokes a Rio de Janeiro in miniature.
Fair-skinned, the Saintois who inhabit it are of Breton ancestry.
A theory supported by the talents of sailors that they exercise on their Saintoises, typical boats with the raised bow.
Larger and much wilder, Terre-de-Bas has retained a primitive sweetness of life.
The delicious local pastries called torments d'amour surely have something to do with it!
A hike on the steep reliefs of this authentic island is an opportunity to take an interest in tree species that have played a major role in the West Indian pharmacopoeia since the dawn of time.
The sap of the red gum tree is, for example, an excellent healing agent, just like that of the croton flavens, or
ti 'bom
in Creole.
We also find here vèpèlé, with antiseptic properties, Indian wood, whose essence is anti-infectious, or even barrel wood, known to lower blood pressure.
Others are even multi-purpose, such as pigeon peas, whose leaves relieve itching and grains, in addition to being tasty, cleanse the digestive system.
But beware, nature also sets up some traps.
In Saintes in particular, it is important not to linger under the mancenilliers.
The juice of their leaves is extremely corrosive to the skin.
The island of a hundred mills
As on Terre-de-Bas, life seems to flow more slowly on Marie-Galante.
Columbus named this island after his admiral caravel.
And if its rounded and flat shape earned it the unflattering nickname of "large cake", Baudelaire could have dedicated his verses to it: "There, all is order and beauty, Luxury, calm and pleasure".
It is said to contain the best rum in the world.
The strongest surely, since it can titrate up to 59 degrees of alcohol!
Marie-Galante's sugar production dates back to the 17th century.
Close to the Grand-Bourg landing stage, the Murat house provides a better understanding of the organization of this economy based on slavery.
Transformed into an ecomuseum, this former exploitation presents a perfectly restored mansion, buildings for processing cane and a venerable mill.
The island would still have a hundred like him, the best example of which is probably that of Bézard.
Witness to Marie-Galante's sugar past, the Bézard mill is one of the best preserved.
- Jean-Claude Urbain
A stop near the Punch pond is an opportunity to take an interest in the abolition process, which was more painful here than on the large island of Guadeloupe.
Legend has it that, to celebrate their freedom, the freedmen from the Pirogue house poured rum reserves into the pond to feast for three days!
Proud of their history, the Marie-Galantais take great care in maintaining their Garden of Eden.
At the bend of a cane field, one can still observe some traditional huts, made of braided branches and coated with dried earth.
However, it is on its coast with turquoise waters that Marie-Galante finishes bewitching her visitors.
From the pristine beaches of Vieux-Fort to the spectacular arch of Gueule Grand Gouffre, the concentration of natural wonders is as intoxicating as the local rum!
Grand Gouffre mouth.
One of the many treasures of the Marie-Galantais coast.
- Jean-Claude Urbain
Trip
Dominique, the most discreet of the Antilleans, always dresses in green
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Extremadura, journey to the origins of the conquest of the Americas
Go
Air France takes care of its passengers to Pointe-à-Pitre by offering them, since the start of 2020, brand new cabins on its Boeing 777-300s.
During the flight, wines, champagnes and Creole specialties are offered to all.
Already served from Orly by the national company, the islands of Guadeloupe will also be accessible from Roissy-Charles de Gaulle airport from December 17.
In total, no less than 21 direct flights per week will connect this overseas region from the capital.
Information
The website of the Guadeloupe Islands Tourism Committee is a valuable resource for preparing your trip.
Nature
West Indies
Overseas
Caribbean
Trip
Guadeloupe