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Granada is a city that always fancies. No matter the season of the year. But summer suits him especially well, despite not having a beach. There is no need if you can sit on a terrace of a carmen in the Albaicín, attend a concert in the Patio de los Arrayanes of the Alhambra or discover what the last days of Federico García Lorca were like through a dramatized tour. They are some of the essential plans of Granada in summer.

The most musical face of the Alhambra

It was not clear that it could be celebrated due to the pandemic, but the 69th edition of the Alhambra- based Granada Music and Dance Festival was finally able to open its doors this year with a program that started with Mozart's Requiem for the Granada City Orchestra and Choir as a tribute to the victims of the Covid-19 . Then they have passed (and will continue to do so until July 26) through the Patio de los Arrayanes, the Palace of Carlos V or the Generalife gardens, companies such as the National Dance Company, Antonio Najarro, former director of the National Ballet, or the Monte Carlo Ballet; the renowned Argentine pianist Daniel Barenboim , the Italian violinist Fabio Biondi, the flamenco cantaores, Miguel Poveda and Carmen Linares or the guitarists Pepe Romero and Cañizares. Not forgetting the 17 concerts dedicated to Beethoven. In total, 32 days, 70 shows, 136 works and 77 artists on a background stage like that of the Alhambra.

Performance of the National Orchestra at the Palacio de Carlos VF RODRÍGUEZ

A walk through history between caves and viewpoints

Granada is perfect to enjoy it from its terraces in the central squares of Bib-Rambla or La Romanilla or alternating along Calle Elvira until you reach Plaza Nueva . You also have to get lost in the Caldedería street to sneak into the multitude of souvenir shops and tea shops that dot it. The historical vein of the city is discovered in part by entering the majestic Cathedral, in whose Royal Chapel the Catholic Monarchs are buried. It is another of the obligatory routes is the Paseo de los Tristes to the beat of the Darro river on the way to Sacromonte, with its famous cave houses. For its part, the Albaicín, the most labyrinthine of all the neighborhoods, waits up the hill of San Miguel. There is the San Nicolás viewpoint that so excited Bill Clinton on his visit to the city in that summer of 1997. In the Carrera del Darro, you have to stop in Bañuelo to see the interior of an authentic Arab bath from the 11th century well preserved and declared a National Monument.

Interior of the Bañuelo in the Albaicín neighborhood.

Immersion in an authentic Andalusian hammman

The closest thing to those Arab baths just mentioned is a hamaman like that of Al Ándalus on Calle Santa Ana, 16. The experience of the Arab baths begins with a purification ritual as soon as you enter starring an essence: rose, lavender, flower Granada or red amber. To choose. One of the most demanded services is the free circuit for the hot , cold and warm water springs, in addition to the steam room, which seem to be rescued from a tale of a thousand and one nights. The massage list is extensive and goes from one relaxing with the chosen oil to another on a hot stone bed applied with a cotton fiber glove and natural soap paste.

Massage in the hammán Al Andalus.

Dramatized route on the life of Lorca

Federico García Lorca was born in 1898 in Fuente Vaqueros , 20 kilometers from Granada, but he did not move to the capital until 1909. In that first house in which he lived, a few steps from the Puerta Real, the dramatized tour about his life begins in the city organized by the local agency Discovering Granada. From there, guides such as Rosa Terrones and Antonio Bonilla take you to the house where he gave piano lessons ("his first professional vocation, aborted by his father", as Bonilla recounted); the old Café de la Alameda (now Chikito), where the gathering of El Rinconcillo used to meet; to the Enrique Prieto bookstore where he bought all his literary whims (today, Nico shoe store) ... Without overlooking the Federico García Lorca Center (Plaza Romanilla, s / n), dedicated to his figure, or the house in the who was arrested before he died, located in Calle Tablas, 4 and converted into the restaurant El Rincón de Lorca , where the themed dinners with which the tour ends are held.

Dramatized tour of Federico García Lorca.

The Spanish capital of tapas

Tapas are something inherent to Granada and there are even guided tours of a handful of restaurants to taste the most famous ones. The dynamics are easy: each rod (or wine, soft drink ...) is associated with a skewer in question. And the grace is in seeing how far one can go. The Garnata Tours company is one of those that organizes this type of culinary tours with stops at venues such as La Picoteca 3Maneras (Santa Escolástica, 19), where you must try the roasted aubergine or the Andalusian-style Iberian secret, or Los Manueles, all an institution spread over four locations throughout the city. Star products: its croquettes or its chicken stew with tomato in the Granada or cauldron style. You should also try their version of the Moroccan pastela and, for dessert, the pionono. The list of emblematic tapas places is endless, but we point to one more address: Casa Julio (Hermosa, 5) or Bodegas Castañeda (Almireceros, 3).

The famous croquettes of the Los Manueles restaurant.

The reinvention of crimes

Granada lives not only on tapas. The gastronomic facet of the city is increasingly marked by design venues that offer avant-garde cuisine, but with indigenous roots. This is the case of María de la O, which combines a restaurant, terrace, nightclub and event spaces in the wake of the song's protagonist. Not surprisingly, some fragments of it sneak between the walls of the place, an old carmen (those recreational houses with a garden or orchard included) on the Carretera de la Sierra. Examples of their re-invented local dishes: trout on a bottom of ham , bacon and boletus spaghetti or the soft suckling pig. Another example of Carmen turned into a restaurant (of a classic style, that is) is that of Aben Humeya, in the Albaicín, perfect for dining looking at the Alhambra. The monument of La Victoria, with its famous viewpoint, or that of Las Tomasas also has views . And a few steps away, the flamenco club of La Platería, the oldest in Spain (founded in 1949), also stands out, with honorary members such as Enrique Morente or La Yerbabuena.

Interior of the María de la O restaurant.

More information at www.andalucia.org

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