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When the trianeros cross the bridge of Isabel II, -the Bridge of Triana, of a lifetime, they say they go to Seville. When it happens the other way around, of course, the Sevillians say they go to Triana. This curious paradox helps explain a detail as simple as true: Triana is not just any neighborhood . No sir.
And it is not because he has enough nerve to declare himself independently - figuratively, obviously - and that everyone, trianeros and non-trianeros, gives him reason. Because Triana is special. Only. And of course, artist : cradle of bullfighters, flamenco and dancers, their streets waste hearth at every step.
But to take the pulse of a neighborhood with so much roots, you have to know where to start. A good starting point is its food market , which every morning is filled with triad essence: here the modernities are still at bay. And yes: there are stalls of sushi, craft beer and even oysters, but next to them the lifelong neighbors continue to make their purchase as if such a thing.
On one of its sides there is also space for a semi-secret place: CasaLa , a small theater room with armchairs in red velvet in which there is only room for 28 spectators, welcomes every evening, in an intimate atmosphere, flamenco shows They are wonderful. There is also a place in the market for the Andalusian Cooking Workshop and its original courses of Andalusian gastronomy, or for Manu Jara's sweets, a French eminence - although a triad of adoption - whose delicatessen are pure art: not trying them should be a mortal sin .
Once on the street, with the sun shining brightly as you only know how to do it in the south, one runs into the San Jacinto, pedestrian and commercial street, and the Plaza del Altozano , a trianero nerve center par excellence. It will be necessary to contemplate the Giralda through the heart of the statue that pays tribute to Juan Belmonte - bullfighter and triana, of course - before looking at the flirtatious Capillita del Carmen, raised in the middle of Puente de Triana. Work by Aníbal González himself - that of the Plaza de España, yes -, makes the Sevillians of pro persecute themselves when they pass by.
The Bridge that divides the worlds
It is precisely this that maintains the distances between Seville and Triana. Well, he and the Guadalquivir, of course: the river to which the neighborhood has always directed its life.
However, the picture, as it is known today - the bridge, by the way, is built in iron and is the oldest of its kind preserved in Spain-, is from 1856. Since the end of the 12th century and until then both banks had been joined by a bridge of boats - that is, 1 7 boats tied together with others - commanded to raise by the Almohad caliph Abu Yaqub Yusuf.
It was clear that, with so much looking at the river, it was normal for numerous sailors to emerge from the streets of Triana. In fact, Rodrigo de Triana, the one who shouted "land in sight" when he first saw the New World, was from the neighborhood. Also in Triana the ships with which Magallanes and El Cano would sail ready to go around the world were provisioned.
But the waters of the Guadalquivir served for much more: from them the clay with which the potters worked was extracted. To learn more about the legendary trade, you can visit the Triana Ceramic Center , a beautiful museum located in the last large factory dedicated to the pottery that the area had. In the neighboring Triana Ceramics store you can see and buy, while in Barro Azul, they propose a thematic route that ends with your hands in the dough: well attached to the lathe and molding a piece with which to go back home.
Time to snack ...
With well-rooted roots in what also concerns gastronomy, if what you want is the classic tapas you can not miss places like Las Golondrinas and its sirloin tips, La Blanca Paloma and its cod in a thousand and one forms, a bowl of snails at Casa Diego or the quail of Ruperto . In Los Cuevas, by the way, seasonal vegetables and stews reach the height of excellence.
Now, the neighborhood has also managed to let new airs take over the stove: avant-garde cuisine is found, for example, in María Trifulca, where you can enjoy a world of flavors that do not forget the essence of Triana. The best? The unparalleled views of the river, Seville, and the mythical Betis Street, which with its colored houses is one of the most photographed prints not only of the neighborhood, but of all of Seville.
More options? Also at the foot of the river and on the same street is Abades Triana , while towards the opposite side of the bridge, on the Paseo de la Ó -where on weekends, by the way, a flea market is organized in which potters and craftsmen painters sell their works-, it is precisely De la Ó the alternative.
If what you want, however, is to get away from the tourist center a little, on Numancia Street, the Puratasca restaurant has been giving for years to talk about its salad and rice dishes. We left it there!
More flamenco and religion
The religious scene - which in Triana, as in all of Seville, is very important - goes through a visit to the church of Santa Ana . Among its merits is the first church built after the Reconquest, in 1266, and although it has no chair, for the neighbors it will always be the cathedral of Triana. Nor can you miss a visit to the Esperanza de Triana , the most admired by the neighbors. To do this you have to approach the Chapel of the Sailors.
Although there is a religion in Triana with which everyone communes, that is flamenco. Cradle of artists such as Marifé de Triana, Lole and Manuel, Remedios Amaya, Chiquetete or Matilde Coral - to name just a few - in the most traditional neighborhood of Seville could not miss the temples to this art. One of them, Casa Anselma , has spent a lifetime offering the most authentic flamenco shows among lanterns, ceramics and bullfighting posters. His fame has come so high, of course, it is already necessary to book.
But the thing continues, and if there is a desire for a spree -flamenca, it is understood-, in La Piconera you will find everything you want: live performances from Wednesday to Sunday in a pleasant atmosphere and, yes, from 11 of the night. To finish off the experience - and this three-way route - you have to go to Betis Street. There is El Mantoncillo , where to have fun, dance and learn everything that good flamenco can offer, until the body endures.
PRACTICAL GUIDE
How to go.
National (Vueling, Iberia, Air Europa, Volotea) and international (British Airways, Lufthansa, Ryanair, Easyjet ...) airlines connect some of the main Spanish and European cities with the Andalusian capital.Where to sleep.
Hotel Ribera de Triana is an elegant four-star hotel with unbeatable views of the Guadalquivir in the heart of the Hispanic quarter. The Hotel Zenit Sevilla has 267 rooms that occupy the floors from 34 to 37 in the neighboring Torre Sevilla.Where to eat.
Los Cuevas is an ideal option to taste the flavors of the Hispanic cuisine, highlighting above all its potajes and seasonal vegetables, grown in its own garden. María Trifulca not only offers a novel and full of proposals menu with an avant-garde touch: it also has one of the most desired views of the Guadalquivir and Betis Street. For some tapas, Juan Carlos (Calle Febo, 6) offers a display of 120 types of cheeses that pair with rich wines or very fresh beers.More information. On the Seville Tourism website www.visitasevilla.es/turismo-de-sevilla
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