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From the sky it is as if it were an invasion of flying saucers that have crashed on the shores of the Persian Gulf. Flush with the ground, the vision remains to not believe. The new National Museum of Qatar created by Jean Nouvel is almost sufficient reason to drop by this Arabian peninsula that floats on generous reserves of gas and oil.
The museum opened in March after 18 years of work. "The dishes emulate a desert rose. They are superimposed so that the interior is completely transparent," explains the guide Karem Pilar Echeverría of this last milestone in the cultural arms race of the Gulf states. Two years ago, Nouvel himself presented the Louvre in Abu Dhabi. He told the History of Art. This speaks of the rise of Qatar, the size of Murcia, which in just 50 years has gone from living pearl collection to having the highest per capita income in the world .
Now, the resources are finite. "They have calculated that they have 20 more years of oil and 100 of gas," says Echeverría. Hence, Qatar, owner of the London Harrods, has put other businesses in the peephole, such as the 2022 World Cup or patronage. Together with the eight football stadiums planned (four will be finished before the end of the year), a dazzling library signed by Rem Koolhas . In front of dozens of steel skyscrapers, a city, Katara, dedicated to culture. In front of gigantic malls ... more malls .
The route of rigor in Doha never loses sight of the sea. Before starting, a note: the Qataris are very nocturnal, so do not expect great atmosphere before the sun goes down. The new museum has stolen the focus of Islamic Art , designed by IM Pei , but you should not miss it.
In the same area we find the Waqif souk , rebuilt as it was in the past. It retains the typical trajín of the street market with aroma of sandalwood. The most expensive thing to buy is probably a hawk, the most precious pet in this country crazy about falconry. "They can cost 9,000 euros. Here the hawks have a passport and travel as one more in Qatar Airways," says the Spanish guide Monica Robles.
The souk is an unbeatable place to mix. The Qataris are easily recognized: they are of impolite white; They are black from head to toe (face included). It is your hallmark. Nationals are only 12% - some 380,000 inhabitants - of a country of 2.8 million.
The next stop is Musheireb, one of the oldest areas in Doha today renovated one hundred percent. Everything is new and shiny, as if the dust of the desert did not reach these buildings. What does arrive is the sea breeze and there is shade everywhere ... they say of Musheireb that it is the height of sustainability and the place where Doha brings together the latest in luxury accommodation and restaurants for foodies. Of course, to drink a wine, you know, only in hotels and as long as you can not see it from the street.
There are two ways to reach the high buildings of West Bay , emerging from nowhere in the last decade. Tourists catch a dhow, the typical ancient Arab vessel (or an imitation of it). The locals, when the sun goes down, are more than Uber or walking along the Corniche , a seven-kilometer boardwalk that stinks the entire city.
In the shadow of this crystal jungle is Katara , the cultural mini-city that shelters professionals and artists from the local creative tribe. The art galleries, the small mosque and the old pigeons recreate an Arab villa from centuries ago. Let's not say the colossal outdoor amphitheater, with capacity for 5,000 people. But if the culture fails, Galeries Lafayette has just opened next door.
Because Qatar always has a plan b. He demonstrated this in 2017, when he responded to the boycott of his regional neighbors by bringing 4,000 cows from Germany to supply the lack of fresh milk. Today it is not easy to wander the streets of Doha without seeing The graffiti that portrays Emir Tamim bin Hamad Al Thani, the leader who has weathered the crisis.
This Qatari raid lacks a key element: a visit to the desert. In addition to spinning the dunes, an essential place is the Inner Sea of Qatar . The vision is, again, science fiction. Who knows if it was here that Nouvel found one of those beautiful and strange desert roses.
PRACTICAL GUIDE
Drop down
How to get. Qatar Airways, chosen as the best airline in the world in 2019 according to Skytrax, flies direct to Doha three times a day from both Madrid and Barcelona. Price: from 248 euros each way. Hamad International Airport is 20 minutes from the city center.
Where to sleep. At the Mandarin Oriental hotel, Doha. One of the last accommodations that has opened the Asian luxury chain. It is located in the heart of the new Musheireb district, just a five minute walk from Waqif Souk and Corniche. Do not miss the spa. From 400 euros a night.
More information. On the official Qatar Tourism website
According to the criteria of The Trust Project
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