Larger clothing sizes on the rise - but the range is still scarce

The range of clothing for bodies outside the ideal has always been small - and what is there has rarely been at the forefront of the fashion industry. Instead, it is usually about basic garments, or clothing that only attracts a small part of a very varied group.

- You talk about larger sizes as a consumer group. But they differ in many ways: different age, class and economy, says Maja Gunn, professor at the University of Crafts and Design.

Although larger people are thus very different from each other, many collections are made for everyone who is outside XL - and the sales will then be, she explains.

- And then the argument is used that the consumer group is not strong enough to buy, says Maja Gunn.

Another important factor in why collections of larger sizes do not sell as well, Maja Gunn thinks is that people do not want to be identified as deviant, you want to be able to buy clothes in the same style and in the same way as everyone else.

- For companies, it may be easier - purely in terms of production - to make a special collection for larger sizes. But the consumer wants to be able to choose the same range as his acquaintances.

But now the lack of sizes outside the norm seems to be about to change. One of the reasons is, according to Maja Gunn, that body activists in recent years have put larger bodies on the map, and succeeded in raising questions about the norm among clothing sizes.

- By having body activists and influencers take a seat in the public space, the body of the models will be different, and by extension the clothes as well, says Maja Gunn.

At the same time, e-commerce has opened the door for smaller clothing companies, which can reach a more niche audience without having to finance physical clothing stores. One of them is Peter Lundgren in Umeå, who recently started the clothing company 12-Grand, with clothes in sizes 2XL to 12 XL.

- During all my years in the industry, I have been asked questions about larger sizes. But it is not just a matter of great demand. I myself have 2XL and am on the ruin of what the clothing industry offers. It's like a black hole after 2XL, he says.

The clothes he sells are street style and are aimed at bigger men, a group that has even less to choose from. Ambassador to the brand is rapper Biggie Juke, an artist who has made a name for himself that he is great.

- I have no illusion that the problem is solved, but I think we will take a step along the way. Then I hope that others can enter into this too, it's a market that is incredibly grateful, says Peter Lundgren.

He says that the response to the clothing, which is sold via subscription, has been above expectations.

"There is quite a big difference to the other clothing industry, there is incredibly much more positive vibe here," he says.