Little time? At the end of the text there is a summary.
Red lipstick in green packaging, tubes and pots entwined with flowers and leaves - the range of products that promise "natural" beauty is constantly increasing.
But how much nature is there in natural cosmetics? And is she really healthier for the skin?
These questions can not be answered flatly. For terms such as "natural origin", "natural" or "pure" are not protected by law. Also "bio" is in the cosmetics sector - unlike the diet - not regulated by the state. As a result, any manufacturer who wants to benefit from the growing demand for eco-products can first of all advertise with these labels.
However, not only for natural cosmetics, but for cosmetics in general is that the consumer must not be deceived. In 2012, for example, a large German manufacturer was forbidden to court a series of "pure & natural" care products, even though chemical additives were included in the product. However, for judgments such as these to occur, the deception must be noticed by the relevant product surveillance offices. "The supervisors only do random checks," says Silke Schwartau of the consumer center Hamburg.
Water is considered a natural ingredient
Since September 2017, there is an additional ISO standard for natural and organic cosmetics, which, among other things, defines criteria for natural and ecological cosmetic ingredients and products and allows the calculation of the proportion of natural substances. However, it is not obligatory. Consumer advocate Schwartau also considers the standards too low, misleading and deception are even supported.
"According to the ISO standard, water is also one of the natural ingredients," she criticizes. "There are more and more products on the market that contain up to 95 percent water and may be used as natural cosmetics." The established natural cosmetics manufacturers put this into turmoil. "She fears that the market is being watered down in the truest sense of the word."
Another problem: The individual ingredients do not have to be listed in percentage terms for cosmetics. "When you eat raspberry yoghurt, it must state what percentage of raspberries, raspberry preparation or powder in yogurt are included," said the consumer advocate. "This is not the case with cosmetics." Although the ingredients are ranked by weight according to decreasing amount. At the top is what is included. But whether in aloe vera creams now a meager percent of the plant in it or more, is not apparent.
It is therefore often difficult to see how much naturalness there is in a product. In the following we answer the most important questions in order to find orientation in the jungle of green cosmetics.
Which legal rules apply to natural cosmetics?
For natural cosmetics - as for cosmetics in general - the European Cosmetics Regulation. It guarantees the safety of cosmetic products. There is no special natural cosmetics law, but several private seals. Many of them significantly limit the use of some substances that are allowed with conventional cosmetics. "As soon as there are indications of possible risks to the environment or health, certain ingredients or procedures are not used with caution," says industry expert Elfriede Dambacher, who publishes the "Naturkosmetik Branchenmonitor" quarterly and advises natural cosmetics companies for 15 years. However, the standards are also different for certified natural cosmetics.
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Consumer advocate Schwartau criticized that there is no uniform state-funded seal. "Above all, the certifiers deserve the current label jumble," she says, and they have no interest in more transparency and consistency. She therefore calls for "a uniform logo for all with transparent criteria". Also Dambacher would endorse such a state seal, but only "on the level of certified natural cosmetics today".
Which natural cosmetics seals are there and what do they say?
Among the best known seals are Natrue, BDIH or Ecocert. Since 2017, there is also the Cosmos standard. Five European natural cosmetics label organizations - BDIH, Ecocert, Cosmebio, ICEA and Soil Association - have joined forces to agree on minimum standards.
All natural cosmetics certifications have in common that their raw materials are mostly of natural origin. This means that petroleum-based ingredients, silicones, genetically modified organisms and synthetic fats, oils and fragrances are taboo. "In the case of organic cosmetics, moreover, a certain proportion of the ingredients - depending on the label - must come from organic sources," says Schwartau.
An overview of some common seals and their meaning can be found on this page of the Consumer Center.
Which controversial substances do not occur in natural cosmetics?
Mineral oils and mineral oil derivatives such as paraffin are extracted from petroleum, which is purified and processed in several steps. This results in oils, vaseline or waxes that care for cosmetics, cleanse or repel water. They are a cheap alternative to vegetable oils, but even in the production of little environmentally friendly. In addition, they can contain critical substances, such as so-called aromatic hydrocarbons (MOAH). Some of these substances are suspected of causing cancer and damaging the genome. According to Stiftung Warentest, they have no place in the body, but are absorbed by lipsticks and lip balms. Other mineral oil components can accumulate in the body over time, possibly leading to inflammation in organs such as the liver.
Mineral oils are allowed in cosmetics. If certain standards in processing and limit values are met, the Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR) according to current knowledge, no health effects are expected. "Mineral oils have been used in cosmetic products for more than a hundred years," writes the institute. "Health effects of cosmetic products have not yet occurred despite their widespread use." However, the BfR also points out that there are data gaps - for example, via the skin. Who wants to be sure as a consumer, can resort to natural cosmetics. Mineral oils are not found in certified products.
This also applies to other problematic substances that are admitted according to the European Cosmetics Ordinance but are waived by natural cosmetics manufacturers. "Traditional make-up foundations often contain silicones," says industry expert Dambacher. They are also in water-resistant mascara or ensure that the lipstick is smooth to apply. Although these liquid plastics are harmless to health, they are difficult to degrade in waters and therefore not allowed in natural cosmetics.
Parabens are commonly used preservatives, which, unlike other preservatives, have a low risk of allergies and are well tolerated by the skin. Some representatives are however in the criticism, since they proved in the animal test as hormonally effective. The EU Commission has therefore set limits for them. In natural cosmetics they are just as little included as emulsifiers from the group of polyethylene glycols, PEG short , which weaken the skin barrier and make it possibly also for pollutants permeable. Other problematic substances such as microplastic, aluminum (as a color pigment also contained in lipsticks, eye shadow and make-up) or the antibacterial and controversial substance triclosan do not come in jars and tubes.
Is natural cosmetics always better for your health?
That's not the case. "Even natural raw materials can cause allergies - especially essential oils such as tea tree oil," says Julia Welzel, chief physician at the Department of Dermatology and Allergology at the Augsburg South Hospital. "Marigolds, wool waxes or natural fragrances can also be problematic in this regard."
"In natural cosmetics, irritating and sensitizing substances can also be put on the skin," emphasizes consumer advocate Schwartau. "For some aggressive chemical substances, such as certain preservatives, are not included." Ecologically, an almond oil is in any case better than a mineral oil, "said Schwartau.
If the skin reacts sensitively, it does not have to be due to the fact that a pollutant is in the product. The skin type also plays a role, one tolerates one substance well, the other does not. Dermatologist Welzel also emphasizes: "Whether nano or microplastics: Hard facts that controversial substances are harmful to human health are often missing so far." It is conceivable, however.
Can natural cosmetics compete with conventional cosmetics?
"The products are now very good," says Dambacher. But she also admits that it can be even better at hair styling, hair washing and decorative cosmetics. Since certain surfactants are missing, the natural shampoo foams less. Powder without microwaxes made from mineral oil can not be distributed as smoothly and less strongly adheres. And a waterproof mascara is not found in natural cosmetics yet.
In short, terms such as "natural" and "organic" are not uniformly defined in the cosmetics industry. Different private seals guarantee different standards, such as that no synthetic and harmful substances are contained in the product. But even natural ingredients such as tea tree oil can cause allergic reactions. Whether one tolerates a product, also depends on the skin type.