Iván Sáez (1980) looks like a child with new toys. Because the Madrid chef has just landed at the Club de Campo Villa de Madrid, a sports and social club with a long history in the capital – it was inaugurated in 1931 – and with one of the most prestigious golf facilities in Spain, as well as others dedicated to horse riding, hockey, paddle, tennis, skating, swimming ...
The bag with the sticks on his shoulder has not been hung, but the knife case. With them begins a new stage and moves to this "oasis from which you can see all Madrid" the delicate, creative and product cuisine that puts eyes and hands on the tradition of Desencaja, its flagship.
After almost 10 years on the Paseo de la Habana, Iván closed the doors of this restaurant at the end of April [although he keeps La Tajada, his most informal format, in full swing]. "I was thinking about what to do with it. In recent times we had been making an extremely fine cuisine and the place did not accompany; He had become a little old." And in those was when, things of life, the Club de Campo Villa de Madrid crossed the road and the arrival of summer accelerated everything.
The space offers panoramic views of Madrid.
"We opened the terrace on May 31, and the setting could not be better: in the middle of the city, oblivious to its maelstrom and its noises, in the middle of nature ... Which in my opinion makes it the best terrace in Madrid: 15 minutes from downtown" and overlooking the golf courses and holm oaks. A unique environment that not even the storms of these days steal the brightness.
Access to its gastronomy is free; What's more, it always has been, something little known. "We are open Monday through Sunday to members and non-members. Of course, you have to book. At noon the entrance is paid to access, but it is deducted from the bill. At night, admission is free for subscribers and non-subscribers, and works like any restaurant, "says the chef.
The proposal "plays with the product and its seasonality, as we have always done, includes unpublished creations and also the best of Desencaja. For example, rice. We incorporate classics such as carabinero, pigeon ...", explains this experienced chef who went through Martín Berasategui, Mugaritz, Zorzal, Zaranda, Senzone ...
Other jewels of the crown present the Country Club: the steak tartare or the deer loin, one of Ivan's fetish products. "In Desencaja everyone has ended up eating it, even the most reluctant. They tried it and surprised they asked me if the deer tasted like that... Of course, this well-treated meat is amazing." And this jeweler also hosts, in the chapter of dishes on request, treasures such as partridge in the manner of Alcántara or dry rice for seasonal game.
Marinated anchovy, almond cream and fig.
In this attachment to the seasons -in this case, to summer- and to the flavor are present in fresh dishes such as anchovy marinated with ajoblanco, pickled partridge oyster and ad hoc creations such as Cordovan salmorejo with cherry tomatoes and pesto with aromatic leaves, pickled mackerel with pochas salad ... Or the last of the last and that "was born in the Country Club, a pickle of graffiti where we work the bird with a different technique. I want to do new things," says Ivan in pure form and in pure air.
These are some of the passes of a menu that shares prominence with Viaje al hoyo 13, the golfer version of the iconic tasting menu Viaje a la Luna de Desencaja (three appetizers, two starters, a meat, a fish and dessert for 48 euros). This culinary journey starts with the three appetizers of The bar of my dreams: ham croquette, steak tartare on brioche toasted in butter and Russian salad. Follow with a couple of starters; for example, anchovy marinated with almond and fig cream or asparagus from Navarra (which already dismisses the season) with beurre blanc sauce and Iberian pork jowls. The steamed hake with chirlas sauce and sautéed tirabeques and the roast beef tenderloin, mashed potatoes and seasonal vegetables are, respectively, the marine and carnivorous bet of the menu.
The dish 'Tomato and tomato'.
However, as always happens with Ivan and his devotion to the raw material – more than season, almost "of the moment" – everything is changing. "I am in love with the product, so when something comes to market that I want to include it I will do it. In fact, the menu has been filming for 30 days and we have already touched it, "he says focused on greasing the gears, the included team he has formed for this adventure ("between kitchen and living room we are about 30"). "As we feel stronger, we will create more recipes. So far, we have brought very round things."
And the price? "I think it's very tight, about 45 euros. Look, they are telling me that the month we have been running the average ticket with drink is 55 euros. Of course it depends on what you drink." Here there is something for all tastes and pockets. "We have made a big bet on wines, some at knockdown prices. We have a little bit of everything because we want to reach everyone, just as we have proposed with our kitchen."
Another area of La Terraza.
Thus, in the liquid menu there are from references that roll the 15 euros to a Pétrus for 2,950 euros, our most expensive wine. In any case, what we want is for the diner to enjoy, to live it as a party in a green and idyllic environment, "he says "excited like a big child with this toy of enormous dimensions with many things to discover and to do".
And it is that La Terraza de Desencaja is the vanguard, "the beginning" of a broader project that covers the entire gastro proposal of the Club. For now, Ivan concentrates on La Terraza and looking at the sky to stop raining.
La Terraza de Desencaja (Club de Campo Villa de Madrid, Carretera de Castilla, km 2) is open every day from June, July and from 1 to 17 September (August closed). Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, from 13.30 to 16 h. and from 20.20 to 23 h.; Sundays, from 13.30 to 16 h. It is essential to book on the phone 91 898 22 40.
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