Madrileños who live in the area of El Plantío or frequent it have known for years the one-story building strategically located in front of one of the main shopping centers of the exit to the mountains, Sixth Avenue. In it have been successively several very busy restaurants, especially for its advantageous location: Asturias, then Carús and recently this Las Margaritas-Casa de Comidas that adopts without fear that nickname of another era, as if implying that it is a popular dining room and without great infulas. Actually, we have verified that it is very careful in its appearance, with terraces and plants, and, what is more important, with an interesting cuisine of traditional and popular base, but very updated. In that it has surpassed its predecessors.

The star instrument of the house is the grill -tremendous grill of more than 500 kilos, manufactured in the Basque Country-, and it is dominated by the experienced chef who is Javier Montes, a student of Luis Irízar. But the vast offer covers much more ground, including wines, which allows for example to enjoy a Vega Sicilia for just over 20 euros. Miracle? No: it is a dry white wine that Tempos Vega Sicilia produces in Hungary, in Tokaj, the Oremus Mandolas 2019, and that is very pleasant. In fact, the whole menu introduces some notes of pure sense of humor, such as the food house: thus, the beef milanesa appears as milanga, which is its popular name in Argentina. And, precisely, that is where Montes was formed as a barbecue.

As an illustration of the diversity and, at the same time, simplicity of an offer based on a very good selection of the product, go some dishes tried days ago; Several of them, such as scallops or croquettes, are ordered and invoiced by units, which makes it easier to organize a tasting menu on the fly. There are also half portions and off-menu dishes.

To begin with, the aforementioned zamburiñas, of respectable size, do not come with the classic Galician preparation, but with a béchamel that softens them and are frankly pleasant. A very simple arugula and parmesan salad is pure freshness because of the quality of the brotecitos of what was once called ruqueta in Spain (before it disappeared for decades and returned from Italy), cheese and virgin oil. Again, a lot of freshness and tenderness, while an impeccable crunchy point in frying, in a plate of puntillitas. And the generous portion of fried piparras allows us to verify that these tender Basque chillies have in common with the peppers of Padrón that some chop and... Outras non.

On this occasion the grilled main course we chose was a monkfish or pixín, which is not always on the menu, because here they are very attentive to what the fish markets offer. And the sublime point, without drying out inside as in too many places in Madrid, added to the flavor of the fish recently arrived from the Bay of Biscay, are exciting. Just behind are that milanesa or milanga of very tender veal, which comes with a cured and truffled egg yolk, and a steak tartare de picaña, that cut of the high thigh of the cow that became popular in Brazil before reaching Europe, and that has the remarkable advantage, for this raw dish, of a good lean-fat balance, with which it is very tender.

A roscón torrija -very rich, although the Kings have been left behind- and a cheesecake from the workshop that, we are told, owns the chef himself, complete a very spectacular lunch and, albricias!, at a measured price.

With some frequency, Las Margaritas holds wine tastings from wineries of very good reputation, such as Muga or López de Heredia, some of which are harmonized with various dishes. It is therefore advisable to keep abreast of the account of this house on Instagram.

Learn more about La Margaritas-Casa de comidas

  • Avenida de La Victoria, 29. The Plantation. Madrid
    • 91 063 57 51
  • Opening hours: Closed Sunday evenings and Mondays.
    • Official Website: www.margaritasmadrid.com

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