Gastronomy Corral de la Morería: the Madrid public rediscovers the best flamenco tablao in the world thanks to its gastronomic proposal
Juanjo Ruiz
(38) has not yet hung the
2023 Michelin plaque
on the facade of his restaurant.
He and his wife,
Reme Romero
(33), received it a few days ago and they are so happy that they want to capture the moment of the placement of the iconic red sign in a video.
"I want to record how we screwed it together," laughs this chef born in Seville who has made his bistro,
La Casa de Manolete
, one of the
benchmarks of Cordoba gastronomy
.
And not only because of its kitchen, contemporary and very Andalusian but with a classic and French style, but also because of the walls that house it,
the beautiful mansion that the legendary bullfighter gave to his mother.
Since Juanjo decided to open his own restaurant, both he and Reme were clear: they wanted Doña Angustias' mansion, located in the center of the city but outside the bustle of the old town.
From there the lady listened to the cheers from the plaza where her son, the most famous matador in Spain, was rampaging
.
Doña Angustias never stepped foot in the bullring
(she had been widowed by two bullfighters) but Manolete wanted at least the echoes of her tasks to reach him.
In 2019,
shortly before the pandemic
that was about to ruin the project, the chef and his wife, together with several partners, invested almost one and a half million euros to restore its splendor and leave it in its initial state,
guided
by a series of old photos that Reme got.
Almost everything is original and the elements that were added new, such as windows and doors, were made by replicating the originals.
Thus,
the 16 tables of La Casa de Manolete are divided between his office
, where his coffin was installed after his fatal goring in Linares (August 1947), in his bedroom or in another large room presided over by two separate portraits of the right-handed man and
Ortega y Gasset
painted by the Cordovan artist Fernando García Herrera.
The parents of the philosopher and essayist were the ones who built the palace in 1890
and who sold it to Manolete in 1942.
The entrance to the House of Manolete, which is preserved as it was at the time.EM
After the meal, Reme herself may offer to take a
short tour of the house
, declared an artistic heritage site, with anecdotes about the bullfighter, his three sisters and the oronda
Doña Angustias, who lived there until her death in 1980.
.
But they go to Casa de Manolete, above all, to enjoy the dishes that Juanjo Ruiz and his team prepare every day and which are full of surprises.
Everything is taken care of down to the smallest detail, from the flowers that adorn the tablecloths to the menu, which is printed daily and delivered sealed with wax to each diner.
It offers its
famous
piquillo pepper salmorejo (with tuna belly, capers and powdered gold cheese), or the
old-fashioned oxtail
, which has become one of its star dishes.
Also the
perfect foie al amontillado Gran Barquero
or the
brava heifer steak tartare
attract their large clientele, mostly from Cordoba, who come to La Casa de Manolete to experience a
experience
.
"Many executives come during the week but on Saturdays and Sundays we have families as well as national clientele and more and more foreigners, French and Italian above all," Juanjo clarifies.
Manolete and his mother, Doña Angustias, in the patio of the house.EM
In addition to the menu, which changes frequently, Juanjo Ruiz offers a
tasting menu for 90 euros
with six passes, Cordovan cheeses and two desserts that can be paired with wines (the winery has 200 references with special prominence of
generous Andalusians
) for 45 euro more.
Manolete's office, with its original moldings and fireplace, is one of the restaurant's rooms.EM
Trained at the Seville Hospitality School, Juanjo has hardened in the kitchens of Martín Berasategi, Dani García and Jesús Sánchez (Cenador de Amós).
His first teacher was his grandmother Isabel
, who "with four dollars made some delicious and creative stews."
Chef Juanjo Ruiz at work.EM
Also
Arguiñano
.
"Watching him cook on TV made me gobsmacked," he recalls.
At the hotel school he discovered that cooking was much more than a trade and he turned it into his means of expression.
Juanjo has not stopped training, especially in nutrition and food (he is currently studying
Food Science and Technology
at the University of Córdoba), disciplines that he has transferred to his kitchen, especially since his wife was diagnosed with a disease three years ago , multiple sclerosis, which led him to change his diet.
"Since Reme I began to investigate and
I have studied a lot about biochemistry and physiology
. We do not realize the importance of what we eat," says the chef who has
Guyton's Treatise on Physiology
as one of his bedside books.
His research has also led him to launch the first
salmorejo with probiotics
on the market under the umbrella of La Salmoreteca, the gastronomic space he has in the city's Mercado Victoria.
Juanjo is determined to make Cordoba cuisine
known
, one of the great unknowns of the national territory.
La Casa de Manolete has been in the
Michelin Guide since 2021
and his great hope would be
to get the star
, which would be added to those of Noor (two) and Choco (one), the great restaurants in the Cordovan capital.
"Our gastronomy is like a
treasure that must be sought and unearthed
. It is worth doing so because we have incredible products," he ditch.
Address: Avenida de Cervantes, 10. Córdoba. Phone: 661 31 60 44.
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