One plus one is not always two.
Sometimes the sum can exceed the mathematical result and become something bigger in substance and form.
Something like this happens in Amicitia (friendship in Latin), a restaurant that reflects the story of two friends, chefs, and a partner who opted for a gastronomic concept that essentially
defends local products
.
The trip begins in La Rioja, specifically in Calahorra.
Lucía Grávalos
, the chef from Calagurrit who appeared in the capital with her Mentica Gastronómico restaurant -today closed- and
Albert Jubany
, in charge of Eth Bistro Gastro Espai' (Vielha) met and from the beginning they connected wonderfully.
"There are people with whom you immediately know that you are going to work well," explains the female part of the tandem.
To La Rioja and Catalonia, which are cooked over low heat here, is added the Extremaduran meadow by
Juan Carlos Navia
, who is in charge of managing the restaurant.
Chef Lucía Grávalos.
Last December the adventure started in the middle of Génova street.
"
It is a very ambitious project
", says Lucía, between nervous and happy for the challenge she is facing, with two very different environments: a gastronomic one with a la carte and tasting menu and a bistro space, which is enjoyed with small bites and the same effect surprise than the first proposal.
The connection between the two chefs, who are separated by more than 20 years, involves respect for the product and understanding that it should shine on its own.
"
We don't do fusion
," she clarifies.
If the vegetables from its garden shine in La Rioja, the sea urchin and shrimp from Palamós do so on the Costa Brava.
"
We complement each other well
, each one brings a style, some experiences. We learn from each other," says Lucía.
The fight of egos is neither there nor expected.
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Where other restaurants talk about suppliers, they call them (and consider) "friends. If we want the raw material to be the protagonist, those who provide it to us must be too", reflects the chef from La Rioja at one of the high tables at the entrance. .
The evening starts with one of the house
cocktails
, signed by Manuel Jiménez, world technical champion in Tokyo 2016.
Specifically, we tried one that contains dehydrated Palamós shrimp, tequila and a touch of lime
.
"With cocktails we intend to make a difference too," says Manuel himself.
On the menu they offer the classics -there is no shortage of pisco sours or dry martini- but they also have a varied list of more risky and original cocktails.
The non-alcoholic ones are just as appetizing.
In the winery, they also have more than 150 references.
The Catalan cook Albert Jubany.
In this bistro space, perfect for a snack after work or on a Saturday when your body asks for a more casual option, you can enjoy
small bites from both chefs
: the sobrassada and truffle brioche, the Maldonado Iberian ham croquettes, the torreznos crispy and sweet with pico de gallo and mint, the perfect marriage and the tomato steak tartare, coconut white garlic, grapes and kimchi, among others.
On the table of acorn-fed Iberian sausages -sobrasada, ham, salchichón and loin- comes a nod to Extremadura, the third leg of this gastronomic journey.
The decoration of the space has been taken care of in detail
, with materials and colors that create a cozy atmosphere and a modern touch.
In the restaurant, at the back of the premises, there is the option of eating à la carte or letting yourself go with the tasting menu (with four appetizers and eight steps. 90 euros / 130 with pairing).
The surprise effect is maintained from start to finish.
In the passes, the touch of each of the cooks is clearly appreciated.
Oysters natural and with spherical Bloody Mary.
Those who knew Mentica will remember that
cauliflower and its crunchy with smoked béchamel and caviar
, a dish that received so many compliments and that Lucía has kept in the Amicitia menu.
Many of her creations have originated from her grandmother, Ana Mari, and her recipes, which reflect an understandable cuisine, with spectacular aesthetics and always with recognizable flavors.
From Albert, who makes his debut with this project in the capital, highlights include dishes such as
the sea urchin gratin with cava
, a photogenic dish like few others that enters through the eyes before doing so through the palate.
The Palamós shrimp tartare (with the option of adding caviar) will undoubtedly become another of the place's 'hits'.
Juan Carlos Navia, director of the restaurant.
The pairing
of the sea and the garden is a constant on the menu
, be it the skewered hake with chard cream, the artichokes with ham and Iberian foam, the fennel in its surroundings or the crab ravioli and seaweed gnocchi, to name just a few. Some examples.
"
We work different territories that understand each other very well on the plate
," explains Lucía.
Perhaps one of the dishes that best demonstrates this understanding between the two chefs is the shrimp and caviar tartare 'chawanmushi', unmatched in flavor and texture.
The part of the desserts maintains the line... and the level
.
The green chromaticism of the Riojan orchard (it was also in Mentica) and the pears in wine in memory of the village fairs win for singular.
The old-fashioned French toast with coffee cream and ice cream will conquer the sweet tooth.
green chromatism.
With the idea of becoming a reference in the capital of the best product, they are already working on a surprise menu where caviar will be the absolute protagonist, which will even be included in the desserts.
Enjoying, yes, these nine passes will be within the reach of a few.
Its price will be 375 euros.
Address
: Genoa, 7.
According to the criteria of The Trust Project
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