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Chance sometimes plays very good tricks.

Javi Estévez

(Madrid, 1983) knows it well.

When he started looking for a place to open his second restaurant in Madrid, he found a space to which too many things attached him.

"Fortuitously, we found out that in the 1960s they worked on

offal

as well. They made Roman brains, sweetbreads and tripe," he says excitedly.

Named

El Lince-Casa Avelino

and located at

289 Principe de Vergara Street

, the place captivated the chef from Madrid, who decided to call his restaurant, opened just a few weeks ago,

El Lince

.

"The truth is that we couldn't come up with a name that we liked and it seemed nice to keep it."

They have recovered even the original neon and now they want to find old photos to bring life to the walls.

Estévez

, who sneaked into many homes through

Top Chef

-he participated in the first edition-, discovered the offal during his stage at

El Mesón de Doña Filo

and saw that there was an unexplored vein in it.

"I found the niche without being very aware that there was one," he says.

In 2014 he opened

La Tasquería

(Duque de Sesto, 48), where offal and viscera have been the undisputed protagonists of the menu until today.

"At first I thought that having gone on television could penalize me."

He was wrong.

"Before I was elected Revelation Chef 2016 at

Madrid Fusión

,

Francis Paniego

(Echaurren. Two Michelin stars) asked me to do a four hands". The echo of that put him on the radar of the gastronomic world. "There are times when I look back and think: the one we have messed up".

Cheek briocheTHE WORLD

Putting

the offal

in haute cuisine has been a challenge;

in 2019, in Lisbon, he got

the Michelin star

.

"There are many people who continue to say that it is very cheap. And it is if we compare it with shellfish or meat. But we must also take into account that the offal requires more processing and more numerous teams to clean it, shred it... ".

From the beginning, he worked for lovers of this cuisine, but also with the hope of bringing it closer to the most reluctant.

"The other day a family came to

La Tasquería

and her mother approached me to tell me that her children had eaten wonderfully and that they had loved it."

There is no better compliment than that.

Probably, they tried the mythical suckling pig's head confit at low temperature all night and then fried for about five minutes.

"There are customers, especially foreigners, who

have doubts about how to eat

it. We always encourage them to do it with their hands and they freak out."

Or the

tripe, leg and snout

stew , another of her

hits

, and the only one that has remained in her new eating house.

"The

offal

is present in the menu, it is part of our essence, but we make it simpler and with a different approach," he explains.

He didn't see much point in replicating what he already did.

There are

lamb sweetbreads with garlic

,

battered brains

and

pig 's ear with brava sauce

, but also

salads

,

white beans

,

cheek brioche

and

battered cod tacos

.

"We have also incorporated the salad", adds the chef, who studied at the

Superior Hospitality Center of Galicia

and took

stages

at

Tragabuches

(by

Benito Gómez

) and

El Bohío

(by

Pepe Rodríguez

).

Later he was part of

Julio Reoyo 's team, from the

Villena

restaurant

(one Michelin star) and landed at

El Mesón de Doña Filo

.

Of the desserts at El Lince, the strawberries with cream (they have nothing to do with what you are imagining) are a house brand.

They have, by the way, half portions of almost everything and that is always a plus point.

Salad.

one of the new additions to the menu. THE WORLD

In Estévez

's new adventure,

he is not alone.

"I jumped in because I had a trustworthy team around me."

The head chef is Adrián Collantes, who worked six years at

La Tasquería

as a second;

At the head of the room is the

barmaid

Nagore Arregui

, who has also been in charge of decorating the premises.

"She has eaten the whole play by herself."

The one that has brought to light a story that revolved around the offal and today it does it again, although with a menu (average price: 45 euros) loaded with many other pleasant surprises.

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