Pasta (dry and especially spaghetti),
guanciale
(cured pork jowl), pecorino Romano, black pepper and egg yolk.
They are the five ingredients that give life and substance to
the carbonara that today, April 6, celebrates its world day
.
The canonical ones, because the versions that include cream are true anathema for purists of the recipe.
Of uncertain origin
, there are various legends and theories about the origin of this tasty and unctuous pasta dish.
The most popular dates back
to World War II
and to Rome, and its
creation
had something to do with
American soldiers and a Roman cook
with an eagle eye, who, using the
guanciale
and the eggs that the former carried as supplies, concocted this elaboration, today one of the symbols of
Italian cuisine in general and of Roman cuisine in particular.
In Madrid we find good and delicious carbonaras, like the different options that Andrea Tumbarello makes in
Don Giovanni
;
the creamy one prepared by Ignazio Deias at
Da Giuseppina;
Fabio Gasparini's, well crafted and, what's more, a hit with his Bacaro... Or the trio that makes up this report who, whether staunchly faithful to classic production or opting for more creative versions,
are addicted.
Carbonara with pecorino and 'guanciale', in Noi.
NOI
We start with the restless
Gianni Pinto
, soul of Noi (Bib Gourmand of the Michelin guide), from the El Pradal Group.
Known from the Madrid restaurant
after his time at Sinfonía Rossini
, Gianni starts from the usual gastronomy, but dribbles his clichés, so his menu proposes
a trip through Italy in a contemporary key with singular and author pairings
.
Right now, the chef offers
two carbonara recipes
.
The first, with
spaghetti
, pecorino and
guanciale
, and they make it with a sabayón (type of cream similar to mayonnaise or hollandaise sauce) of egg yolks, the mandatory cured Romano cheese, smoked black pepper and
pork jowls that they cure. themselves
.
The second,
with sea urchins.
"We also prepare a sabayon with egg yolks and smoked pepper, and we add this exquisite marine morsel on top," explains the cook from Puglia (a region in southern Italy, on the heel of the boot).
"The mixture of the yolk and the sea urchin
makes it an incredible sauce", concludes the chef.
What has been said: tradition, modernity and creations of author cuisine
.
Address:
Recoletos, 6. Tel.: 91 069 40 07. Closed on Sundays and Mondays.
'Carbonara Ozio', in Gastronomic Ozio.
GASTRONOMIC OZIO
This new Italian has been in Madrid for a short time, but
he has already carved out a niche for himself in the capital's showcase
.
Coming from Palermo, where the mother house is, it has settled in the Azca area and is run by
Dario Genova -executive chef-
and
businessman Alberto Andolina
.
And, although their specialty is Sicilian cuisine, the carbonara is perfect here, yes, made with
Dario's particular
Sicilian style .
The dish, surnamed "Ozio", is an
interpretation of the traditional recipe
with Sicilian pecorino with Protected Designation of Origin, which
are illustrated and illustrated
with black truffle.
In addition, they finish it in front of the diner: they crown the dish by grating a little of the exclusive mushroom and they serve the carbonara in the pan where they have cooked it.
Address:
Aviador Zorita, 37. Tel.: 9 1712 91 70.
'Carbomamma', in Bel Mondo.
Bel Mondo
It opened in the midst
of a pandemic (September 2020) and in a flash it became the fashionable Italian in the capital, with spectacular interior design.
It is still there, being one of the restaurants
that everyone wants to go to,
not only for its decoration, but also for its cuisine... And for its more than famous -and
Instagrammable-
spaghetti
carbonara
.
A recipe and a presentation that leave no one indifferent and that they also serve in the other restaurant of the Big Mamma Group
(Villa Capri
, Hortaleza, 118).
The
Carbomamma
is the
star dish of the house,
in which there is no lack of egg yolks,
guanciale,
pepper and, in addition to pecorino, grated Parmesan.
Its main singularity is that it is presented inside
a large wheel of pecorino
, because one day they decided to finish it on the wheel so that it would take on all the flavor.
From there to success.
Address
: Velázquez, 39. Tel.: 910 44 72 03.
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